Well, think about this: The total duration the rubber is played and thus being exposed to oxygen in its entire life time (approximately 12 months if treated well) is WAY longer than the time required for boosting. So this means you can neglect the time for boosting; and therefore the effect of...
I agree with Sims.
The one who buys cheap, buys twice.
AND
If you don't go for the original you will always challenge yourself if the one you bought REALLY plays identical compared to the original version.
In my opinion it is if it is really lightly used, i.e. no splintering of the wood, rubbers still with grip. If you are lucky then the H3 still belongs to the older batches that show way more tackiness than today's H3.
Between HL3, HL5, HL5X, HL5A, HL5 Golden, Grand Slam, W968 Prov, W968 Nat, etc. you see more or less significant or less significant differences in:
- Ply composition
- Ply thickness
- Carbon layers
- Handle dimensions
- Wood quality
As said already it is because you have a low batch/number (-2) which is a National Player version. And those are more expensive.
https://www.prott.vip/Product-Details.aspx?productcode=2020W968L
To remove glue from a new rubber usually is easier than removing it from a rubber that already had glue on it.
If you struggle to remove the glue just put another layer of glue on the rubber, wait until dry and then remove it.