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Do you mean personally or in my business?

I did a review of the Rxton 3 Blue late last year on in the Loki Rubbers thread - see link below: https://www.tabletennisdaily.com/forum/topics/loki-rubbers.22886/page-6 To answer the OP's question, the R3 blue is a totally different rubber to the black or red (didn't try the pink) - really it...

I don't doubt it 🙂🙂 and frankly I'd love to try both of them. But I cannot buy either of those rubbers in this country (one of them is seemingly being withheld from the aussie market deliberately), nobody has any I can try before buying (so I know I'm not wasting my money), none of the clubs...

Here are my 729 rep's exact words on it: "We have some Presto spin, presto speed and presto max speed in our sample room. But our technical engineer said that this series needs to be upgraded, so we do not recommend ordering this product now. And about Aurora max, we do not produce this model...

Yeah... That sounds about right actually. I loved playing with 729 in my youth, but IMO the change to the 40+ ball just killed 'em. They were resting on their laurels, the game changed, and they were caught napping. Never been the same company since.... I want them to get better too, but I'm...

For what it's worth I get the feeling 729 are doing a bit of a review / revamp of a fair chunk of their inverted rubbers. I reached out to my 729 sales rep asking about various different lines they had in stock and coming up. They told me: -the Presto Spin, Speed and Max all need to be updated...

Plus one on the surprising longevity of some older classic rubbers. Recently took an old sheet of Mark V out of retirement and chucked it on a one-ply, purely out of curiosity to see how it would go. It was no speed demon but even in it's worn-out state it still had surprising levels of spin...

Wasn't aware of that, thanks for the heads up. IIRC, I think they did something similar with their Rxton 3 rubbers fitted to their own blades as well. The LARC number staying the same makes sense, as apparently the ITTF only authorise the top sheet, not the sponge (or so I hear). If that's...

Guaranteed ways to get rubber shrinkage after mounting your rubber: 1. Boosting your rubbers yourself. Booster is just a solvent for one or more of the various natural polymers that partially make up your rubber. The rubber gets faster because the solvent breaks down some of those cross-linked...

Yeah, Loki did the same thing with the Rxton 3 blue - radically different topsheet and sponge, but given the same name as the regular rubber due to their common pimple architecture... but with the R3Blue, it also made it a better rubber.The R3 was always pretty good, but the R3 Blue is a...

I quite like the MX-P myself TBH, but I rarely play with it - being both a massive equipment junkie AND a blademaker means I more-often put any spare funds towards buying obscure woods for future builds, rather than regularly buying myself top-flight rubbers. :) Mixing springy Tensor-style...

Speaking purely for myself, I find that with a one-ply blade, 44-48 degree hardness is the sweet spot... It's very much a Goldilocks thing for me. Softer sponge around the 38-40-42 mark is a bit TOO soft, as they tend to absorb too much of the impact forces, and it all feels a bit 'mushy'...

As a very rough rule of thumb, heavier blades can tend to give better feedback than lighter ones, simply through having higher average density. A good one-ply blade is probably going to give you the best low to mid frequency vibration (ie: playing feedback) of all... with thick balsa core...

There's also other materials besides this one which give you the same woody feel you are describing, and which provide a sufficiently strong reinforcing matrix for composite materials, but which don't require large energy inputs to manufacture, or cost a lot of money to purchase. Cellulose is a...

I'm actually very surprised to hear that... Is that the experience of all Hinoki one ply owners? My own one ply blades are both extremely fast AND extremely spinny (they can also flex a bit when I use them right) but then again they're not made from Hinoki and I don't own an Hinoki one-ply...

Correct - the H-1-9 is a Hinoki blade... Though apparently there are aa few all-balsa one ply blades out there (though to make it work, they *must*be using above-average density balsa in the blade, taken from the lower half of the trunk just above the buttress. The standard commercial density...

It also depends on the specific species / cultivar of wood used in the blade Hinoki blades are famous for breaking due to their unique grain structure - the wood that grows during summer is lower density (and weaker) than wood that grows during the slower period of growth they experience during...

I honestly don't know​​​​​​ - but I haven't heard of any pro shakehand one-ply users, and can't find any evidence of any modern pro or semi-pro players EVER using them, and I'm just wondering why that is. ​​​​​I mean -- is it because there's a performance deficit in one-ply blades compared to...

Was just curious how many (if any) pro / national level players out there currently use a one-ply blade during competition (be it kiso, cedar, ayous or something else entirely). I love the feeling / feedback from my one-ply blade and honestly don't notice much of a speed/ spin deficit compared...

ROFL... Oh well... Repeated for good measure then 😂😂 ​​​​​​(How embarrassing! 🤣🤣)