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Hi folks 🙂 I'm currently looking for TT players who would be willing to act as potential play-testers for me -- I'm hoping that some of you good folk on TTDaily might be interested. The only major requirement I have is that any play testers must currently & regularly use: - either a one ply...

Have to ask - did your blade get much stiffer once you finished the surgery? I imagine the blade would be flexing far less than it used to now.

I can get 'used' to a new blade in anywhere from 5 minutes to an hour of play (where the vast majority of my strokes go in) -- this is partially a reflection though of the fact I'm constantly playing with / testing new blades as part of my job. It takes me a good month of regular play however...

Re: the OP -- here's my two cents worth: It is ten times harder to unlearn a bad habit, or correct bad technique, than it is to learn good habits and technique from the very beginning. Bad habits give you a lifetime's worth of frustration. Good ones give you a lifetime's worth of pleasure...

Plus one on the Patio AK-47s - really great rubbers. Very fast, very spinny, good control and they are all very light! I use the Red and Blue versions on my custom 9.1mm one-ply blade. It's a big arse hugely powerful blade which weighs 100gm on the button, but with those rubbers on both sides...

Yes. It matters enormously. If you learn with equipment that is too fast, you never actually learn to play the game properly. Ditto if your playing rubbers are not insensitive to incoming spin. All you'll get from too-fast equipment in the beginning, is a bunch of bad habits that can in...

Hey well done - glad to hear you got it sorted out and that you found a blade that suits you more than the viscaria. 🙂 You mentioned you don't know what you want to do with your Viscaria. If you've decided to get rid of it, please let me know with a DM. Happy to put in an offer on it, or else...

Very true! :) Only ever made the one Zylon blade myself, but that was enough to completely wreck my (admittedly already worn) bandsaw blade completely. It does go nicely in a blade, but I tend to try and avoid the stuff myself now, precisely for that reason.

Interesting looking blade. Can you post a pic of the blade from the side? I'd like to see the layers of the blade.

It's well worth it - especially if you use nitrocellulose lacquer to seal it instead of polyurethane. The grain comes up beautifully. Quick tip - if you're going to use/cut Queensland Walnut, don't do so with a brand new and really sharp blade. The wood has a high silica content and will blunt...

Yeah I know what you mean - I have found F3 rubbers to be a bit like that, but i'm less prone to it with the harder sponge versions for some reason. The R3 may go well for you on BH - it is fast enough to act as one, and like I said, it goes okay but not brilliantly. The tackiness may help...

Hi JeffM 🙂 Always good to bump into a fellow sandgroper online. My work takes me all over Perth metro, so I'm actually a member of three different clubs currently 😂 1. HotShots at the TTWA center in Vic Park is where I usually play; 2. I also play occasionally at the Fremantle TT Club in...

I've posted a few times now but never did introduce myself - apologies for that 🙂 Hi there, I'm Shannon - a professional blade maker and table tennis junkie from Perth Western Australia... Arguably the world's most isolated capital city, with the possible exception of Honolulu. As a player I'm...

I'm a fan of the Focus 3 series myself, and I've tried the regular black & red R3 on my BH. Personally as a BH rubber, I found the R3 to be just okay, and frankly far from spectacular - but maybe that's just me. As others have pointed out, the R3 is also tacky so it's not like for like. If...

Yeah - as a bladesmith, getting the wing shape right is a tough one. When I was developing that one-ply design (Blade 3), I ended up making seven different drafts -- with the only major changes between them all being around the length, shape and gradient of the wings and the bottom third of the...

Really liked the look of the blade with the Smoked Eucalyptus outers! Ditto the Japanese blades with the square upper profile and fatter bottom third -- good job! 🙂 The last two actually remind me a lot of a blade I make that has Vic Ash outers - your version however is far more angular and...

Finding a DHS shaped blade is easy, as it's pretty widely used by a number of manufacturers :) The key features of a classic DHS shape are: 260mm blade length 150mm playing surface width 100mm long handle scales 30mm wing length from top of scale to fulcrum A slightly more oval head profile...

No - I am not saying anything of the sort. No such inference was intended. No such conclusion should be drawn.

ITTF rules prevent adding anything to a blade that may increase the effective size of the playing area. These additions however would be on the handle well below the blade's rubbers, so you should be okay to use such a blade in comps. To modify a blade the way you describe, you could use almost...

Re: the OP -- Short answer: It was a necessary change to mandate a high contrast service environment. This helped correct distortions in the game caused by evolving equipment & changing player strategy. Long answer: In the late 70's / early 80's, players at international level started using...