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Since then, have you already tried the MX-P 50?

True, the dilemma of choice is kinda nice to have though xD How about the Nittaku H3's hahaha.

So bummed out about the RXTON1 Special xD I ordered a sample but it seems they forget it in my order. The RXTON III feels so mushy to me RXTON 3 Blue and Pin well they're a diff rubber entirely from the regular Rxton 3, RXTON1 is kinda soft but alright will try it more extensively on the Loki...

Since you're on a budget, 729 Yellow Carbon is also a good option since it's a W968 type blade at a budget.

A nice thing to consider would be your finishing stroke position or should I say, where your racket is parallel to when at your follow through or finishing stroke position. If your bh loops tend to go long and miss the table, try to think about finishing your stroke with your racket parallel...

Playing in a tournament later. Joining a class C and class B tournament. Fellow PH table tennis players, anyone know what US Rating equivalent our Class B players are?

My apologies to the OP, I don't mean to hijack the thread. @mocker88, what blades have you tried the Loki Arthur China with? Thanks.

I'll use my Loki W01 (which is basically a Viscaria-esque blade) for like a week or 2, then move the rubbers from there to this prototype. :) Thanks for the suggestion.

Won't the alc help for long distance counterlooping?

Thanks. Wonder if anyone has rubber suggestions for Violin Carbon Inner.

I'm currently experimenting with a new composition. Already got my first prototype still working out the desired thickness as I'm not yet satisfied with some of the unwanted vibrations. But it's basically an Ash outerply wood with innerlayer alc. I'm fine with the composition and I know what...

The F3 Pro is a discontinued blade, it has been succeeded by the Sanwei Paramid unfortunately I haven't tried the Paramid yet either. I'll ask my local Sanwei distributor for one to test.

The Ebony version is very stiff, I used a fairly soft forehand rubber on it 729 Super FX with Lightning Sponge. The dwell from the blade is pretty much not existent, the tack from the rubber is the one doing more of the "dwell" sensation. There's only a slight dwell from the blade on very high...

No harm in trying the 729 King series, I've tried the RedWood, Rosewood and the Ebony ones. Best one among the one's I've use is the Rosewood. I haven't tried the Sandalwood I think it's called. I'd suggest the Rosewood one, I used it with the Battle 2 Provincial and it's really good at brush...

Hello, anyone tried this blade out? This is a Cypress(similar to hinoki) outer-ply blade with t5000 style carbon and thick core. Ala Sardius or other Hinoki outerply - butterfly T5000 style blades. I don't have much experience with such Bty blades, but for those who have tried the 729 Black...

I find T64 too soft, never tried Factive. Will look into that.

Another good idea would be to try different blades. What blade and rubbers do you currently use? Do you already use the Andro R42? If you want, since you're a developing player I can lend you a blade or something for you to try out since I notice you're in the Philippines like me.

I have no experience with OSP blades, but in terms of the Nittaku Acoustic and with what I found out in another post here. The Acoustic has different handle shapes regular(being the smallest), LG(large handle) and SG (size in between supposedly.) A good blade to try as well would be a 7ply...

Unfortunately I haven't tried the other Nittaku but hopefully the other members can chime in.

Good point, so... Hmmm are you saying I should go for a blade that I like the feel of then worry about the rubbers after?