Search results

I agree with that C1 is bouncier than R7, but hitting into both of them with more force I felt R7 provided more support where it felt C1 (especially since C1 is only available up to 2.0 and R7 is available in max) kind of plateaued a bit for me

I generally don't use 2.0 rubbers unless they are only available with 2.0. I think 2.0 ACC would be fine because it is a decently fast rubber already, and the grip is pretty good. But I will always choose max

I agree with R7, I think it is very close to a "faster C1" even though technically G1 is the harder version of C1. I am also using Tronix ACC on bh right now and think it is a great rubber though R7 is a bit steadier less bouncy than the ACC

They are basically the same blade. The FZD has slightly wider handle and is balanced slightly more towards the handle. You should physically hold both and see which one is more comfortable for you

Just put D09C onto your current setup. D05 and D09C are already really good rubbers and will play well no matter the blade you put them on If you don't like the blade anymore then it is really up to you to determine which direction you want to move coming from HALC. If you want a more direct...

I have some theories Short pips rubbers have less rubber contacting the ball (per design) to absorb impact and rotational force in comparison to smooth rubber. With smooth rubber, the ball is always interacting with the connected surface of the topsheet first, given that there is spin on the...

Cheap, and it boosts well too

A little bit but I feel just as much work from my pinky to keep the whole racket in my hand

Its not really a conscious input for me, but for purposes of trying to remain relaxed when fh looping, I find that its actually just the pad/tip of my index finger that ends up feeling like its applying the pressure on my fh loop

P6 is listed as 'out,' I wonder if its a new version or rerelease of Millitall.

This is the type of neck crack I'm talking about: https://www.tabletennisdaily.com/forum/topics/crack-near-handle-how-to-fix.19243/ I've had it happen to me, however only with a blade that had a very narrow neck (Waldner Dicon JO shape) and thin allwood blades (Stiga Allround, Donic Defplay)

In a way. It's more like a mildly boosted Hurricane with a slight Euro feeling

Try bending the blade a little and see if the gluing at the top of the handle has failed a bit, or if there are any hairline fractures through the veneer near the neck of the blade.

C2 is a slightly different style of rubber compared to all of these, its harder and less bouncy with a bit more Hurricane behavior compared to K3 and V2C. C2 even less comparable to Hybrid MK, even MK Pro is much softer than C2 and plays much closer to a straight Euro style rubber. Havent tried C53

Very similar imo, it's been a while since I played with either but from memory the Codexx was a bit stickier with slightly higher arc. But they look and play very nearly the same

Depends on what you want tbh. These older gen hybrids are pretty hard and actually pretty sticky compared to pretty much any hybrid (or "hybrid" like Nuzn which I wouldn't call it a hybrid either tbh), they have more characteristics I would say make them closer to Hurricane than more modern...

I know you can also find 388D-2 and Saviga V in purple but I think 388D-1 is better for chopping. D-2 and Saviga V are better at chopblock/hit

How's the handle size difference between the Q?

I've had a few sheets of 40.5 that I had two decent layers of boost on, they domed and everything and boosting definitely made it faster, but I also thought it didn't have as much reaction to boost that Hurricane or even B2 does. I tried Seamoon nat yellow and kailin

OP has said they found Vega Pro too hard, and also that they don't like sticky Chinese rubbers or heavy rubbers. I think that rules out Dragon Grip pretty well- even though its not particularly sticky, its much harder than VP, and its also not that light.