Search results

I appreciate you moving forward with an open mind - If it turns out that Redwood just doesn't produce as much power or have a pleasant feeling vibration, then it is what it is! To answer some of the questions that have come up: 1) My handles are solid (i.e., not hollowed), though I modulated...

I agree with all of the above commenters and just wanted to add my voice to what's been suggested. When I moved up from a prefabricated blade, I started with a Korbel and Butterfly Sriver/Sriver EL. I bought 1 sheet of Tenergy 05 right when it came on the market and noticed a big step up in...

I made a 1-ply blade out of Port Orford Cedar (I live in the region where it grows, so it's very accessible to me). Unfortunately, it was incredibly heavy - about 140 grams. As Hypnotic alluded to, I think Western Red Cedar is probably the closest to Kiso Hinoki in terms of weight and...

Very nice! Figuring out a comparable composition with little information to go off of (and without the blade in hand) must have been quite a fun challenge. Do you know if glass-fiber was commonly used in blades from the 90s? I haven't used many fibers in blade-making, so I have zero practical...

I'm thinking either 1) textreme-ZLC or 2) trying to hunt down a lighter-weight Kevlar/Aramid-Carbon blend than is typically available in the US (e.g., something less than 5.5oz/186gsm)...unless you have any other suggestions!

Perhaps you're really sharp, so you need a duller feeling blade to keep you balanced? In all seriousness, I built myself one like the ones I sent your way (Larch - AYC - AYC - WRC [core]) - I love the way it feels and plays, but I think that composition is just a bit too heavy for me - the copy...

Hi Mas, Unfortunately, I don't have much experience with Obeche for comparison since it's been nearly impossible for me to find in the United States. I've used Obeche in commercially-produced blades, as a core and medial plies, but I've never had the chance to try it as an outer ply. As a...

Thanks for all the kind words, UpSideDownCarl! I've decided that I love the springiness of Spruce when it is placed under the top ply, so I've been using it in a lot of my recent blades. Larch sits between the hardness of Limba and Koto and I find it to be springier (i.e., having a lively...

I know this is a contentious idea, but I THINK I've finally settled on the ideal blade for me. Composition: Blade: European Larch - Lutz Spruce - Alaskan Yellow Cedar - Kiri (core) - Alaskan Yellow Cedar - Lutz Spruce - European Larch Handle: Walnut and Alaskan Yellow Cedar Blade Properties...

Built a couple new blades for the same customer who is looking for that perfect asymmetrical blade. I don't think I've ever heard of Red Alder being used in blades before, but perhaps that's because it's not commonly available as lumber. Composition 1: Khaya - Balsa - Red Alder (core) - Douglas...

Mas, I think the Textreme ZLC blades feel much better than the ALC blades I've made. Both ALC and ZLC fibers I've used were adhered using a more flexible epoxy - the ALC blades played well but had a hollow sound/vibration that people found off-putting (akin to a fresh purple racquetball ball...

I finally got a chance for the first time in 7 months to try out some of the blades I've made. I only had a couple hours, so I tried 3 different blades (out of the dozen or more I still need to try). I wanted to report back on my impression of specific materials, primarily Textreme ZLC and...

I REALLY like working with Alaskan Yellow Cedar (AYC), but I haven't had much of an opportunity to try it out as a material in every layer (i.e., core, medial ply, outer ply). It looks like I might have an opportunity to play for the first time in over 6-months, so I built the following blade to...

Blade for a Local Player: Composition: Blade: Koto - Spruce - Limba - Kiri - Limba - Spruce - Koto Handle: Walnut - Alaskan Yellow Cedar - Walnut Blade Properties: 6.5mm thick 91 grams Flared Handle

Thanks, Sérgio! I built myself a template sanding apparatus/tool so I'd never have to worry about tear-out on balsa or fraying on the carbon fiber blends. It's definitely clean - but it's just as clean as the balsa I've seen coming out of your shop too!

Anotherrrrrrrrr asymmetrical blade for the same customer as above: General Properties: 9.6mm thick 79 grams Composition: Khaya Walnut Balsa Balsa (core) Balsa Spruce Spruce Handle Properties: Conical shape (32mm wide base x 27mm wide tip, 105mm long, 23.5mm high) Walnut and Sitka Spruce

Another asymmetrical blade for the same customer as the above blade: General Properties: 5.9mm thick 97 grams Composition: Alaskan Yellow Cedar Red Alder Alaskan Yellow Cedar (core) Red Alder Koto Handle Properties: Conical shape (32mm wide base x 27mm wide tip, 105mm long, 23mm high) Walnut...

Asymmetrical Blade for a Customer: General Properties: 83 grams 6.2mm thick Composition: Limba Redwood Aramid-Carbon (core) Balsa Khaya Handle: Conical shape (32mm wide base x 27mm wide tip, 105mm long, 23mm high) Walnut and Big Leaf Maple

Clamps are fine - you would generally want to leave it clamped for a few hours at least. I find rubber bands to do a great job of applying pressure while also keeping the handles centered with respect to the blade (while traditional clamps can allow the handles to drift if the glue is still wet).

That was very quick. How did you get the handle swapped over and rubbers glued in that short amount of time? If you used wood-glue, make sure to give it the proper amount of time to dry (likely 24 hours).