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can you tell the weight of zgr and zgx? i have a rhyzen zgx which i like to play alot, but cut to cybershape its weight is 62g so i can only pair it with short pips to have a racket below 200g...

totally makes sense! when sealing (or getting wet anyhow) the wooden fibers stand up and the surface feels rough. so you have to sand again. if you want to have a thinner 1 ply sealing, make the surface wet (with a sponge for example) then let it dry again. the fibers come up and you can sand...

well i am not that experienced in blade making and still learning. but I take the weight of every veneer sheet before gluing to calculate the estimated weight of the finished blade. also when making multiple blades of the same construction whenever possible i take the veneers from the same batch...

thanks, I didnt know this article- but from the linked pictures alone I still can't tell which wood is used in the viscaria. nI a german forum its stated to be limba and there are also several well know blade makers. but i ll search for some better pics and try to proof it by my self using...

can you tell from this picrure which is ayous and which limba?

I know the baum esprit, had one some time ago. It feels similar indeed despite its 2nd veneer is ayous instead of limba. very good blade fore the money but in my opiniin even the donic true inner was closer to the viscaria...

you can also have a viscaria with different thicknesses and weights. mine was 5,5mm and 82g. the (baum) esprit has a thicker core than the original viscaria...

Xiom Vega Euro

I also tried both and they are very close in feeling but the donic is slower. Also in german forums people tell its very close so this cant be totally wrong....

koto is about 50% stiffer and 100% harder than ayous.

last week I bought a sheet of rhyzen zgx in the shop around and played 2 matches today. wow, I never had such a hard and heavy rubber! cut to a cybershape plus 1mm on the edges it weights 62,3g! I had to glue short pimps on the backhand to keep the total weight at 200g- normally I play around...

What do you mean with stiffer ayous? There might be some heavy selected ayous which is stiffer than very soft and light limber, but normaly ayous is much softer and less stiff!

either u match it at the top end of the blade an roll it on towards the handle- there might be a small gap at the handle but that should be no problem. or you apply a layer of seamon as this will give you the old size and playing characteristics back (but is not allowed?)

Eugene looks like an amateur when playing in wtt- those gaps between people are just amazing!

I am making my own blades for about 6 months now and for calculating the weight before gluing I take 20g in for a 5ply wood 2ply fiber. This might vary from 16 to 24g. This is for the uncut sheets of veneer, so glue is about 10g total in the finished blade. When I want to make a blade fast and...

For me K3 is way easier to play than D09c and C53as you dont always have to hit with 95% power. Tried the C53 only one Session and removed it immediately. D09c i tried a few sessions but didnt like it as well. I am still searching for a cheaper Hybrid MK.

He was talking about the dynaryz, so I threw in the Rhyzen. The zgx should be a tad softer than the zgr (56 to 53°)... Btw, how heavy is the rhyzen zgx?

Maybe Rhyzen ZGX?

Because the blade gets harder and stiffer when using only epoxy. Also white wood glue is much easier to use (no mask needed, no mixing). I use soudal 30D and 40P and the epoxy is a e45 from Pauck that means it stays open 45 minutes which ia a good thing.

Maybe smacking the wall now leads to a killer loop in the future as she is getting used to the blade ^^ I thought I took some photos of the babyshape but I didnt. I will get some with rubbers on. Bought the PU woodglue to try it out, the blade in the press is the first with it. Easy to use...