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I have tried both and definitely prefer slow blade plus fast rubbers. (Well what was considered fast like 10 years ago (G1 and evolution elp). I do however agree that it is a clear tradeoff between killshots and rallying. It’s much harder to overpower the opponent so you need placement and...

I think the blade you are using is way above your skill level. And also quite heavy coming in at 105 grammes. If you insist on using it you could go with either : beginner tensors to develop your strokes and not have something too fast Nitakku Factive comes to mind Soft tensors, they're...

In the latest podcast table tennis daily about spin sight they tell that there’s no measurable difference between big and small halls. The tables however make a big difference.

So I guess it’s a secret what anti rubber she’s playing?

If the top ply is limba, I will just buy an Applegren Allplay, same weight, same thickness, same brand (more or less) and Limba outer pli.

These are photos of the side. It’s about 5.3 mm thick and weighs 85gr

I found some images online. I’ll try to get a good close up of the side so the layers are visible.

Hi everyone, I’m trying to find detailed info on an old blade: Donic Sstrait X5 (early 2000s). I’m especially looking for: Exact thickness Wood composition (outer + core plies) Any info on feel / flex / vibration For info and background: It’s the blade I learned to play with and have come...

I really think the adaptation should be to the game and not the rubber. The game is faster with less spin.. You simply have less time to organise yourself. And the biggest difference between divisions I note is speed and placement. (Or placement and speed more precisely).

It’s like reading a summary of what I experience. And every time I feel like I figured it out I move up a level and it’s like it starts again haha. Also I confirm having tried a lot of equipment but not the high end fast stuff. It doesn’t seem to matter with what I play I seem to beat the same...

Getting better at doing it “wrong” has worked wonders for Truls though jk

Do a lot of drills involving “take initiative” then play a “winner”. For example, backspin serve short to your backhand, flick to their backhand block to your forehand you play a winner. Or you do a long topspin serve to their backhand they block on the diagonal you pivot and play a winner...

Hennebont

It's really a combination of a lot of factors. But the foundation is simply that Table Tennis is a massive sport in France. There are 3114 clubs of which 41 have professional teams.

In a 1h radius from where I live, a sub-average (population wise) rural department in France, but with good access. We have on a yearly bases 14 team matches (15 if you count play-offs) 4 individual competition days and a 5th if you qualify for the finals 1 departmental competition based on...

France has what you're looking for, quite sure Germany does too.

I think sabine has more than succeeded. Her intention was to prolong her career because she could not be competitive with the inverted backhand anymore. And now instead of prolonging she’s actually managed to get to career best in what was supposed to be the “Winter” (autumn) of her career.

If he’s old and not very mobile then you could always go for the tactic “long slow with arc”. It’ll force him to either move or to take risks

Good read this topic. Thanks! I, like many others, have been on this route with fast equipment a little too soon. What I noticed was that when playing people that create little to no spin like children and your average beginner (also anti and pimples) it is very easy for them to make you lose...

If you are in Sweden you should be able to find a proper club. First of all, if you play with purpose you will progress. So that’s good! About pairing shots, it’s a very basic tactic that’s used all over. If I were you I’d just ask my club mates to do some basic schemes before every match.