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You said your loops lacks power, this most likely means you need to hit harder. But if you do right now you probably hit long… A less powerful setup will help you to correct this until you no longer need it. Cheers L-zr

We’ll according to his own description it sounds like he wants to dig in harder… Cheers L-zr

Sure but a 5 ply allwood blade can be super fast. It depends on the design. Cheers L-zr

Rubbers are good, but an off++ blade is too fast. You could benefit from getting an all+ to off blade. Cheers L-zr

I don’t think the number of glue layers will affect splintering. As long as your blade is sealed and you remove the old rubber against the grains carefully you have done everything you can to prevent it. I use revolution 3 glue and almost never have a problem. Cheers L-zr

The reason you may need more layer s on the rubber is that it absorbs the glue in a higher degree than wood, specially if it has pores. 1 layer on blade and 2 on the rubber works most of the time For blade splintering one or two layers of varnish helps, rough it up a little with sandpaper when...

I only play with 5ply wood blades and T05FX is way too reactive. It’s great at attacking but when pushing it’s like walking on a razors edge. I gave up on it. Currently I am using Donic Accuda blue P2. Less spin but much more control. (Sorry if this offends you @brokenball 🤣) Cheers L-z

No You’re wrong about T05FX. It makes the short game a nightmare. It’s way too catapulty. Cheers L-zr

Then average will give a better result but it won’t be perfect. Even better if you measure let’s say 3 layers (sponge only) on top of each other. -2mm is a little too thin not to be effected by compression. And you shouldn’t push super hard, just firm. Cheers L-zr

It doesn’t need to fit. Its a % thing. This is why they say a minimum thickness for measurement. You want an average of both pores and solid rubber under the point. If you get too many pores you measure soft. If you get too much solid rubber you measure hard. The more pores the worse the...

It depends on the head size togethether with the rubbers pore size. It is bound to be in exact with a small head. This tool sounds useless to me. You need one with a big head that can not sink into the pores. Cheers L-zr

I really don’t know but I stick it on there as soon as it gets transparent, but that could be a reason. Just save some leftovers an try on any price wood and you’ll know. Cheers L-zr

If you are talking about glue drying that would probably be too long. As soon as it becomes transparent it is ready. Cheers L-zr

One more thing, the thin liquid makes the drying take longer time. I don’t like the wait so I always carefully use a hot air gun. Cheers L-zr

That one is a bit runny I agree, but the water (I think its water based) will evaporate with time and make it more viscose. Its possible that it has separated and what you get is extra thin… Turn it over and let it sit on its head then turn back. Do this every couple of days (or weeks). Then try...

I use revolution 3 and I always seal the blades. I use ordinary woodworking varnish mostly the hard and shiny variant. I always rough the surface after sealing, never have a problem it sticks perfectly. One layer on blade and two on rubber. Cheers L-zr

It is definitely having an impact. Specially in the long weekend tournaments… Cheers L-zr

I’d say get a new blade, then You can keep the old setup, just in case… Cheers L-zr

It’s a little bit faster. I think the Sweden classic is a bit thin and this makes it too flexi. The Sweden extra has that little extra beef to it. Cheers L-zr

Get a new one or at least new rubbers. Get the Sweden extra instead of Sweden classic. Cheers L-zr