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  1. Classic Defense Set Up

    Heading back to the topic however, I think going a soft grippy antispin like Juic Neo Anti, Nittaku Best Anti are actually a much easier option to use for people to gain control in a defensive game with, reason being the smooth surface gives a much more predictable response, especially in the...
  2. Classic Defense Set Up

    In hindsight I don't think it's a completely fair stance to place the whole burden of internet literacy and forum-cultural understanding about the exchanging of information (for lack of a better description of online group habits) on the OP, and on my end it would have certainly been more...
  3. Classic Defense Set Up

    Not sure if it is a language barrier bit this post seems a little aggressive, not sure what I did but here's my reasoning for listing the blade- 1) Since you started the thread based on a specific premise, I figured you'd make the connection that my suggestion would be in line with your request...
  4. Classic Defense Set Up

    https://www.valortabletennis.com/product/Valor_American_Chopper/24?cs=true&cst=custom
  5. DHS fans unite!

    Havent used these rubbers in years, in fact since before the introduction of the poly ball, so take my opinions with a grain of salt. C8 is a decent LP but has poor durability, pips broke on me in a month. It's also kinda fast but it plays fairly direct, like CK531A with slightly thicker...
  6. Returning player looking for a right equipment

    Both those setups are fine, changing equipment won't help you learn how to hit the ball better, analyzing footage of your play and practicing proper technique will help solve your issues.
  7. Classic Defense Set Up

    Valor American Chopper
  8. What rubbers to change to?

    EL-S has more catapult and more grip, easier to put out a higher quality shot, but also runs higher risk of slinging the ball over and off the table if you aren't careful. Rozena has that spring sponge feeling and you can hit quite fast but spin is not its strong suit, however overall control is...
  9. Backhand pips for chopping

    Butterfly Challenger Attack
  10. Heathy boosting

    No way to boost without booster Break it in by playing with it Chinese rubber in general is slow. On an allround blade will definitely be slow
  11. Why is Stratus Powerwood wider at the bottom?

    Special TIBHAR shape, kind of like their IV series. I think it makes the blade a bit stiffer and makes your grip a bit more locked-in
  12. Alternative beginner tensor rubber

    Neither Tensor or available in blue as per OPs request
  13. What rubbers to change to,

    Vega Japan or Vega X
  14. Alternative beginner tensor rubber

    Baracuda in blue?? Where?
  15. Nittaku FastArc G-1 Max. on both sides

    If you already like a slower 5 ply wood, I don't think carbon is the right step up unless you are playing at a much higher level. Lower end offensive class blades like Nittaku Latika, Xiom Offensive S, Yasaka Extra Offensive, Stiga Infinity are built to maintain that natural, communicative 5 ply...
  16. Help on new rubbers

    Rakza Z will be harder, slower and steadier with higher grip than Rozena. Control-wise it is considerably less bouncy with a safe high arc off the rubber but generating penetrating speed will be a bit more difficult without a solid swing. I think R7 and RZ are both control oriented rubbers that...
  17. How hard are CNT H3 after boosting?

    Probably no less than 39-40 degrees
  18. Nittaku FastArc G-1 Max. on both sides

    IMO getting thicker sponge doesn't necessarily increase speed, it really just allows you better results when hitting harder. Have you by chance considered trying out a slightly faster blade?
  19. TSP Süper Ventus vs V>15 Ekstra

    These are both firm feeling rubbers that require an active stroke to penetrate the rubber properly. V>15 Extra has a higher throw and more spin potential but Ventus Extra has a sharper longer arc. If you are not used to playing 47.5degree rubbers on the backhand, you might consider trying...
  20. dhs pg7 vs. tibhar Stratus Power Wood & Samsonov Force Pro (both versions)

    QC stands for quality control. In general the points of low quality I have observed in DHS blades are handles that are not centered, low quality cuts of wood used (rough, inconsistent grain, joints on surface) as well as inconsistent ply thickness and outer plies that are not oriented straight...
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