I thought the most famous of which is Truls Moregard.
Anyhow, a lot of the Swedish team uses it.
Slow is how you define it, if you mean not bouncy/trampoline then yeah, it's slow, but on harder hits it's definitely not slow.
If you're looking to experience it, then get a W968 and a national blue sponge (or even named) H3.
Be warned it is very short lived but it's the epitome of feeling.
The above is a fantastic breakdown of moving to SP.
It's taken me at least 6 months to say I've regained my BH SP technique and improved upon it.
If you want a good starting option. Victas Spectol range is particularly stable without any standout attributes. S1 is a rite of passage, S3 is...
It sounds like you prefer bouncier rubbers and that the two Stiga ones you have chosen are harder and denser.
I think you'd enjoy the medium hardnesses from Stiga :)
Mizuno rubbers (Q5 included) are notorious for their short lifespan :/
The new Q Quality was meant to extend the rubber life (like Xiom did many years back with their life+ series)
Well, not exactly zero drop but I do prefer the Mizuno Medal series instead of their Drive series because of the lower difference between heel and toe.
I think we're at an era that it's always hard rubbers.
Then the blade is whatever you can handle.
Softer rubbers are fine until you face someone that hits hard loops
That philosophy is a bit dated now. It was for the 38 mm and 40 mm era.
These days most beginners and intermediate players start with something like the Clipper or similar 7 ply all wood.
The Sanwei Fextra is a good example of a clipper that plays well and doesn't break the bank.
Depends on your level really, and how you like to win points.
I've found the 3+2 hinoki structure (think Primorac carbon) to be excellent for blocking and hitting once the rally starts, but you may come to miss the feeling and the precision of all wood 7 ply.
Again, your milage may vary.