Search results

  1. Any Pro's use Stiga Dragon Grip?

    I thought the most famous of which is Truls Moregard. Anyhow, a lot of the Swedish team uses it. Slow is how you define it, if you mean not bouncy/trampoline then yeah, it's slow, but on harder hits it's definitely not slow.
  2. Opinions on the Hurricane Long 5 Blades

    If you're looking to experience it, then get a W968 and a national blue sponge (or even named) H3. Be warned it is very short lived but it's the epitome of feeling.
  3. 5 ply blades - a few observations on my three..

    And yet I read time and again of the newest and greatest "improvement" on the viscaria structure 🤣
  4. Has Anyone Tried Large Ball Rubbers?

    They seem to be the same rubbers on a softer sponge. Most hits in large ball is basically a smash/flat hit
  5. Looking for short pimples for BH recommendations

    The above is a fantastic breakdown of moving to SP. It's taken me at least 6 months to say I've regained my BH SP technique and improved upon it. If you want a good starting option. Victas Spectol range is particularly stable without any standout attributes. S1 is a rite of passage, S3 is...
  6. Disappointed with Stiga blades and rubbers

    It sounds like you prefer bouncier rubbers and that the two Stiga ones you have chosen are harder and denser. I think you'd enjoy the medium hardnesses from Stiga :)
  7. Best non-ESN, non-BTY tensor rubber?

    Mizuno rubbers (Q5 included) are notorious for their short lifespan :/ The new Q Quality was meant to extend the rubber life (like Xiom did many years back with their life+ series)
  8. Shoes without heightened heel

    Well, not exactly zero drop but I do prefer the Mizuno Medal series instead of their Drive series because of the lower difference between heel and toe.
  9. Wood vs Composite and rubber combinations

    I think we're at an era that it's always hard rubbers. Then the blade is whatever you can handle. Softer rubbers are fine until you face someone that hits hard loops
  10. "chinese philosophy for equipment" blades: flexibility, stiffness, etc

    That philosophy is a bit dated now. It was for the 38 mm and 40 mm era. These days most beginners and intermediate players start with something like the Clipper or similar 7 ply all wood. The Sanwei Fextra is a good example of a clipper that plays well and doesn't break the bank.
  11. Regarding top layer of the blade suited for SP (multiple questions)

    Depends on your level really, and how you like to win points. I've found the 3+2 hinoki structure (think Primorac carbon) to be excellent for blocking and hitting once the rally starts, but you may come to miss the feeling and the precision of all wood 7 ply. Again, your milage may vary.
  12. Yinhe Jupiter 3 Amazing Rubber

    J3 is less tacky than LAC, and therefore faster.
  13. Blade splintering due to rubber overhang

    What a BEAUTIFUL blade :)
  14. Double Fish Volant-Phoenix

    I struggled to find reviews even on Chinese forums. Seems like it's quite unpopular :(
  15. Why did my boost job turn out lumpy?

    Depends on thickness of booster. If you used something like FTL and didn't spread it out well enough, it'll do that.
  16. 40 degree hardness

    Roughly 52 in the ESN scale
  17. Gewo Nexxus EL Pro Superselect

    How do you find the topsheet grip? I feel like it's less grippy than red, which makes it less spin sensitive too though.
  18. Where are all the old forum members

    A lot of threads have become toxic arguments between petulant forumers.
  19. What is STIGA Cybershape?

    At this point, I may get a better answer buying the bloody thing and trying SP on it than wait haha
Top