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No you didn't take a lot of sh!t for saying it is obvious. You took a lot of sh!t because you said it was obvious while it's obviously not obvious to the OP, and refused to elaborate, in other words you took sh!t because you were just being rude, that's all. Also, obviously you're ignoring the...

I’ve tried Sanwei 1 star, Donic 1 star and 2 star, Neottec Neoplast Pro, and some random brand from Amazon. And the best ones of the bunch is Donic 1 star. Sanwei 1 star after a few months becomes smooth and brittle, Neottec is supposedly produced in the same factory as Nittaku 3 star balls...

Spruce top layer creates a very special feeling when hitting the ball, and it’s not for everyone, the safer choice would be HAL I think.

Ohh so secretive , you joined the free masons or what? Btw, you’ve got an error there in your post, it’s obvious though so you should know what’s wrong.

Moderate speed as compared to the most hard hitting monster blades, yeah, but still a fast blade nonetheless. If you think you can handle it , it is a good blade. Also, without knowing how well you play, it’s hard to say which one is better for you. And TP_Ligna CI Off is a pretty good blade...

In terms of speed of course. HAL is a fast attacking blade, outer Arylate fiber construction. Where as TP_Ligna All is a 5 layer all wood all around blade.

Yeah, Harimoto szlc is faster, especially obvious on the backhand. No I didn’t get the sword blade, I’m suspecting VSea is a play on words, as in VSea = VC. And I already have Victas FireFall VC.

Just got bored and weighed all the blades listed for sale, I’ll update the list tomorrow, also I made a tower of boxes 😂

Plays very nice, debating whether to use this instead of Harimoto Super ZLC .

There’s always a better graph. And I’m also a number oriented person, that’s why I have a science and an engineering degree, but I know when to not be number oriented, that’s the key, life isn’t always about numbers.

It's easier to use compared to HL5, and I buy 2 because it's harder to get since it's only available in China as of now, at least I don't see it being sold elsewhere. And sometimes if I find a blade I like to use, I will buy more as backup and for testing rubbers.

I didn't misunderstood, and like I said it's how you interpret the 100%. It's like seeing 100% means you should be saying "you should win all the time" vs. "you'll likely win most of the time". But then "should win all the time " doesn't translate to actually winning all the time.

Never have, that's why I forgot about it.

It is, but once the data is analyzed and processed it's not real life anymore. For example, we all know a fair coin flips 50/50 heads or tails, but in real life it never is. But how did we get the 50% heads in the first place? We took a coin and flipped it, a lot, then we observed and recorded...

Updating the list

There's always a difference between theoretical probability and real life probability, but that's not the reason to dislike the theoretical probability, you just need to keep in mind that it's more of a guide line, like pirate code.

Tried it, didn't quite like the narrow margin of error because it requires more hitting to engage the rubber to generate spin (compared to what I'm used to of course), if you don't hit through enough the ball just slips off. v>22 is easier to generate spin than v>15, v>20 is less sensitive to...

Because it's all about the "special fiber" nowadays, in the days before fibers were a norm, there used to be a lot more different types of wood used to make a blade, but then ITTF happened and ball became larger, then ITTF happened again and balls became a little larger again, and the material...

Yep. Other than a little heavy it's really easy to use.

those are two very different blades , you sure you don’t mean TP_Ligna CO Off?