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is the ovtcharov innerforce alc prone to splintering? since it does use a limba outer ply, i was wondeirng if it was the same case as with DHS or stiga innercarbon blades (even DHS koto blades are prone to splintering). assume that i will not be sealing and i will only use one layer of glue on...

do you thin kits easier to loop with outer or inner carbon? i mean obv depends on the blade 's charateristics but say we if we take fzd alc and like harimoto innerforce, (i think it might be inner carbon thats easier) but outer carbon is easier to activate so im not too sure.

idk a lot of brands have a ton of regional stuff in china. butterfly has a ton of regional shoes only avaialbe in china that youve probably never heard of. theres tc-1 tc-2 tc-3 and chd-8 just to name a few,

im goign to get outer carbon. i had inner zlc before so...

yeah i agree. inner carbon may lose a bit of speed but i assume if you arent at the top level of pros like in wtt i assume the difference is negligible. inner carobn sitll gives you that speed and with extra spin and safety. many pros use inner carbon too as im sure you know.

just one more thing, if i do get a new blade, i think i will get timo boll alc or one of the alc blades from butterfly lineup, should i get st handle or flared. i tried my coach's st handle and it felt pretty similar. cuz on ebay from this reputable seller, their st handle timo boll alc is like...

I feel like inner carbon might be more controllable than outer carbon since it has an extra layer of wood before the carbon layer making it more flexy and giving it more dwell. idk from personal experience inner carbon is easier to control. having said that it does depend on the carbon used and...

ive reglued my rubbers every time like 4 times already with 1 layer glue both sides. i veen tried 2 layer and it came off fine/ until i gave it to my coach and he glued it and when i tried to remove the rubber, it was super hard to remove. ;-; ill just glue it myself next time

probably not. but its already a bit late for sealing. im just going to get a new blade.

allegedly it will change the feeling slightly. i think im just gonna invest in a butterfly blade after i need to change rubbers.

yeah no i did it from bottom to top diagonally. but it still pulled out a bunch of the wood at the top half.

ill start to get butterfly blades from there. quite a bit cheaper than australia's butterfly distributor

Just gonna ask in this 7 year old post so i dont need to post a new one, i found this timo boll alc. not sure if its fake or real. since its imported from japan i was thinking the price differnece may be found acceptable or at least...

i think some of them are brand ambassadors. and mostly for brand recognition i guess.

i recently ried to relgue my rubbres back on becuase they started falling off from repeated friction on the table, but i gave it to my coach to glue it previuously, and he mustve have used a tonof glue becuase it pulled off a unch of wood! as in like 1 long strip of wood right down the upper...

looks pretty good to me. as far as i can tell a ton better than what i can do.

yeah i believe vega x is faster than the vega pro. i think it lacks some spin tho but i think if you arent at a level maybe semi-pro level you prob cant tell a differnece.

I guess but dignics requires better technique and timing to make full use of the rubber. by no means are glayzer rubbers slow if you comapre to like all rubbers other than dignics.

ive actually never heard of that blade before. i think its discontinued is it not? whre did you get it? aside from that 7 ply wood is faster than 5 and has more gears. ive never tried 7ply blades before tho.dignics 80 is good tho. its all around rubber and probably easiest to use in the dignics...