tt is a zero sum game. every won point comes at the expense of a lost point for the other side. so whenever things go good for you(win a point), you are understandably happy. that exact situation is for the opponent a bad thing(he lost a point) and he is understandably unhappy.
expressing...
if you know you'll commit to the rubber, buy both provincial and national versions in the same hardness and thickness(2.1/40 for example).
based on whether you feel the difference between them or not, you'll know what to get for your 3rd sheet.
the substance you call booster in tt slang is VOC free and classed as food safe(there are some products for which this is not true though), anything short of dipping the VOC meter in a bottle of that stuff will pass the racket VOC test.
if one would take the rule that implies that boosting is illegal seriously (2.4.7 The racket covering shall be used without any physical, chemical or other treatment.) than one should also conclude that cutting or handling the rubber in any way is illegal.
imo, that's silly. the same way...
wow, chatgpt is ~70% correct(volume wise).
this is booster: https://www.australianhomebrewing.com.au/wine-saver-oil-1-lt
don't add wax unless you absolutely dislike the viscosity and want it more thick.
my unsolicited advice is: don't stress about this stuff.
applying a thin coat of PU varnish makes more of a difference for preventing splintering rather than preventing moisture buildup. softer wood definitely splinters more easily than harder wood. and by wood, i'm not referring to tree...
BTY Golden Viscaria jerky flavour.
sealing the blade with a good PU varnish helps a lot, but you may not want to coat the blade with enough varnish that would make it actually watertight(if you can do it at all). you need at least 9-10 coats to even be close to making a piece of wood...