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No in the water !!!! in the steam of the boiling water ... until it get soft and can be bend with fingers ... you can take it out from the steam and checking by hand (but wear gloves to not get burned your fingers) ... and put there only this small part to avoid unsealing the other part of the...

Ok ..... First remove all small chips if th w re are some.... Then put it into steam of boiling water.... But only this edge not whole blade. Keep it there only for a while to get the wood soft. After it is soft put betwen two hard wood board a press it.... And keep it this way thru the night...

Hmmmm this was a really hard smash..... Can you do the first photo once more but focused right .. ? and please once more the third one ... so it could be better seen from the second side.

Try to remove rubbers first. Then we can see the dent better. When im removing older rubbers i always use only fingers and small knife... But be carefull to not tuch the woood veneers.

LOL this one is goooooooood. ;)

Yes you can remove the old rubbers... It will take some time but it is possible.

I have a few minutes with rhis rubbers and the mx-p is good rubber... Practically all was good ... But tenergy 05 just shine.... I was realy surprised how confident this rubber is for attack. But still i played only a few minutes with them..... The price is only one thing which holds me...

Thanks. Yes they are 2mm layers glued with epoxy which holds it perfectli together..... Sanding paper was 150 for shape and then 400 for final.... This way i have made four pairs of handle and newer had problem....and i forgot im sanding it in darection from the top end to botom..... Not from...

Yes i agree . it is better for the bit..... But i do not have jigsav at home...... And jigsav is not good to use when you are using aramid fiber.

Here is the second side and the edge .... + plus the family of blades i was creating with this one. they are still not finished because i`m waiting for wood for the handles.

Sorry this is great shot.... But it goes not nearly close to waldner's shot.... This looks like exhibition...... And Jan makes it in real (and important) game.... I think this types of shot are plenty.... But only few in inportant matches .... Only few of people have the nuts to do in real game.

And here is final photo on the weight scale.

ok updated the first post with the final steps video ... hope it will help to someone....... you can shoot questions if you have any ....

Ok i have updated the first post with second step ... so it is all in one place ...

Congrats man !

From where you get the info that white ash is softer? From my knowledge the white ash is two times harder then limba.. But anyway.... I will test it.... Im currently building white ash top ply ... So we will see. But just from the gluing i see it will not be true..... Koto i find very...

i have updated the main post... so it is all in one place.. Robert

Here is first video of series Make your own blade at home. update: ok for this compositions i have used : first ply it was actually already preglued 3 ply`s veneers of poplar 0.8mm second was the core 4mm balsa standard weight then carbon layer and the final it was mahogany ply 0.6 mm the...

Hi I`m searching for some online store where i can buy veneers in small amount. Something like this one http://veneer-world.com/ which is actually not working now. Do you guys now anything like this in Europe ? Any help will be good .. Thanks . Robert

Good idea..... Our company is using some 200 hz device... This would be enough. Or ?