1 ply Hinoki Clear Epoxy Around prevents breaking

says Table Tennis - the sport for life.
says Table Tennis - the sport for life.
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This sounds like an oxymoron to me. It either feels good or not...
I hate blades with no vibration and too much vibration. It should be just enough so that You now whether You hit the sweet spot or not.
Perhaps I didn't explain that very well. The feel on contact felt nice, but the blade vibrated weirdly after the ball had left, that's the bit I didn't think felt right. I've never felt this in any other blade.
 
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Perhaps I didn't explain that very well. The feel on contact felt nice, but the blade vibrated weirdly after the ball had left, that's the bit I didn't think felt right. I've never felt this in any other blade.
To me I consider the feel being the whole experience together, but OK in general we agree...

I have already set up u Jpen 1-ply (Nittaku excellent, I play shake hand) and indeed it has a great feeling. I also have a 1-ply shake hand blade which I haven't tested yet. (Nittaku Miyabi) Maybe for next summer break I will dig in to this.

Cheers
L-zr
 
Well, there's Skollawood for one, obviously (thank you for that opportunity to plug my product 🤣🤣 it felt tacky to say it without prompting 😂😂)...

...but there's also:

...various other cypress species (Hinoki is a particularly fragile wood compared to other cypress trees like macrocarpa... (In fairness though, the grain in macrocarpa isn't nearly as straight as hinoki)

Okoume / Gabon was the one ply wood of choice in the early 20th century before Hinoki became popular. Similar spin, speed, springiness and weight to Hinoki, and a downright killer medial wood in its own right.

...what else 🤔...

Several australian species of araucaria are pretty springy - hoop pine for example (NB: not an actual pine) is a pretty decent Hinoki substitute in a medial layer if you can find a the right piece of it -- (wouldn't make a one ply from it though, as it's a bit heavy). Norfolk island pine is another candidate, though cutting viable wood from between its regular massive knots is frustrating and drives you absolutely nuts, not to mention creating a LOT of waste in the proces, hence I don't use it very much.

Western red cedar in a one ply is pretty damn close to Hinoki in speed, spin and playing feel, and just like Araucaria and okoume it's a great medial wood with genuine 'pop' to it. (Port Oxford cedar is probably a bit too heavy, but would also come close in terms of speed).

Some folks make one plys from ayous and Kiri too, and I can't deny they can make a nice one ply... But while they're good one ply blades, I wouldn't really consider them as a true Hinoki substitute, as their playing feel just differs too much to call them a true substitute.

I also have a really LOVELY piece of 9mm thick, low-density European white ash in my workshop, that has a really damn lovely impact response to it. Haven't tried making a One-Ply from White Ash yet, but the dynamic bounce, speed, and soft vibration I get from this particular piece has me seriously contemplating it 😁😁

There's probably many other potential candidates I haven't discovered or tried yet apart from the above --- (something to look forward to I guess ☺️☺️) ...but at time of writing however, for my money Sköllawood and cypress are the two best Hinoki alternatives. Out of of all the ones i've mentioned off the top of my head, these two woods come closest to reproducing not just hinoki's massive speed, spin and control, but also that gorgeous buttery playing feel it has.

I freely admit Hinoki will always be special stuff with a playing feel that's virtually impossible to match -- but I also feel that it's propensity to break easily makes it a less than ideal choice for a one-ply blade, compared to stronger species like cypress or Skollawood

(NB: as I've said many times, given the time and investments I've made into developing Skollawood as a One-Ply material, I'm far from impartial on this particular subject ☺️☺️).
Where can we buy the 1 ply Skollawood?
 
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I didn't like the vibrations of 1 ply Western red cedar (9,5mm) but built blades of it with horizontal grain which was much better in this Departement but lacked feeling on the other hand.
Now I am very impressed by 1 ply Kiri blades which are much more balanced. You have much of bouncing and there are vibrations too, but they stop quicker after the ball lefts. Also kiri will hardly break along the grain as it is much more stable than other woods.
 
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Where can we buy the 1 ply Skollawood?
Depends on where you are located 🙂🙂

Currently you can only buy them through us directly, or one of our stockists / representatives.

If you're in Europe or the UK you can buy them there through our stockist Peter Aird. He's based in Scotland but travels a lot through Europe on various TT-related business. IIRC he currently still has some Skolla MK 2 blades in stock - PM me for details.

We don't have a stockist in Asia yet, but are currently in discussions with a Korean retailer via a good friend of mine -- fingers crossed we get that over the line shortly.

We don't have an Australian stockist for our pre-made blades yet -- once I stop being too busy to scratch myself, I intend to make an approach to OOAK in Adelaide 🤣 The folks at OOAK are a great bunch of people and have been really helpful with feedback and suggestions on developing our products. I first started talking with them a year ago, but have been holding off on approaching them again until I could fully adopt a few of their suggestions / requests.

For custom blades you can approach us directly, or Peter Aird in Europe. Our contact details are on our TTD profile, or else just shoot me a PM 🙂🙂
 
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I didn't like the vibrations of 1 ply Western red cedar (9,5mm) but built blades of it with horizontal grain which was much better in this Departement but lacked feeling on the other hand.
Now I am very impressed by 1 ply Kiri blades which are much more balanced. You have much of bouncing and there are vibrations too, but they stop quicker after the ball lefts. Also kiri will hardly break along the grain as it is much more stable than other woods.
How much difference in vibration did the horizontal core make -- a lot of a little? 🙂

I've made a few 5-ply all wood blades with WRC cores and really liked them -- I find it's a great (but pricey!) substitute for ayous, especially in a medial layer.

I've never tried a WRC horizontal core however as I thought it would flex too much. Was that your experience?
 
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How much difference in vibration did the horizontal core make -- a lot of a little? 🙂

I've made a few 5-ply all wood blades with WRC cores and really liked them -- I find it's a great (but pricey!) substitute for ayous, especially in a medial layer.

I've never tried a WRC horizontal core however as I thought it would flex too much. Was that your experience?
It makes a huge difference and the stability more balanced in both direction.

But what I actually meant by horizontal is what you see in the picture.
The orientation of the wood is like a center ply but the grain isn't vertical if you look from the edge.
 

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It makes a huge difference and the stability more balanced in both direction.

But what I actually meant by horizontal is what you see in the picture.
The orientation of the wood is like a center ply but the grain isn't vertical if you look from the edge.
interesting
Can you show a picture at the tip of the blade. (furthest) from the handle? and full face without rubber?
 
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