Assistance/advice with equipment upgrade (1st custom racket) (Update!)

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Ah, makes sense, I appreciate the explanation. Okay, so, if Yakasa Ma Lin Extra Offensive is bit too hard, then Petr Korbel paired with either Nittaku Fastarc G-1 or Rakza 7 for forehand and either Bluefire M2 or Rakza 7 for backhand... How does that sound?
I would recomend the bluefire on fh and to avoid g1 altogether, it's a bit sensitive to spin. And for backhand rakza 7 or 7 soft.

Personally I prefer rakza 7 soft on bh and you could put 7 on fh, very common setup and nice. Soft rubbers help on bh.
 
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I would recomend the bluefire on fh and to avoid g1 altogether, it's a bit sensitive to spin. And for backhand rakza 7 or 7 soft.

Personally I prefer rakza 7 soft on bh and you could put 7 on fh, very common setup and nice. Soft rubbers help on bh.
I see! Although I've read a few articles and reviews, many say Bluefire M2 shines more on backhand and that it's a backhand rubber all the way... Does that make any sense and how true is that?
 
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Ah, makes sense, I appreciate the explanation. Okay, so, if Yakasa Ma Lin Extra Offensive is bit too hard, then Petr Korbel paired with either Nittaku Fastarc G-1 or Rakza 7 for forehand and either Bluefire M2 or Rakza 7 for backhand... How does that sound?

Sounds good, blade is good, generally 5-ply offensive blade is good imo. After 2 years you can upgrade if desired.

Also the rubbers, say R7 max on FH and R7-soft 2.0 on BH should be OK. Eventually you'll need to replace, another combination could be Fastarc G1 max on FH and Fastarc C1 2.0 on BH. Actually my experience is the G1 feels little harder, little slower, and less spin sensitive than R7. It's good allround safe rubber, not very fast, not very hard, not very spin sensitive, you know nothing extreme anywhere, good for start, and C1, it's softer sponge brother, good for BH.

There is myriad of options, some safe, some too fast, but the mentioned two are safe... and by the time you spend them you'll also know what you want to try next ;-)
 
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Sounds good, blade is good, generally 5-ply offensive blade is good imo. After 2 years you can upgrade if desired.

Also the rubbers, say R7 max on FH and R7-soft 2.0 on BH should be OK. Eventually you'll need to replace, another combination could be Fastarc G1 max on FH and Fastarc C1 2.0 on BH. Actually my experience is the G1 feels little harder, little slower, and less spin sensitive than R7. It's good allround safe rubber, not very fast, not very hard, not very spin sensitive, you know nothing extreme anywhere, good for start, and C1, it's softer sponge brother, good for BH.

There is myriad of options, some safe, some too fast, but the mentioned two are safe... and by the time you spend them you'll also know what you want to try next ;-)
I appreciate the input! As for "max", that's 2.1 mm or 2.2 mm? Also, out of curiosity, I've heard about DHS Hurricane 3 Neo a lot... Though it has a lot of mixed opinions. Could it also potentially be an option for this setup?
 
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I appreciate the input! As for "max", that's 2.1 mm or 2.2 mm? Also, out of curiosity, I've heard about DHS Hurricane 3 Neo a lot... Though it has a lot of mixed opinions. Could it also potentially be an option for this setup?

Max is sometimes 2.2 (usually in ESN), sometimes could be 2.3, and in chinese rubbers it is usually only max, which is 2.1 or 2.15. I think you don't need to be afraid of having max also on the BH, however, I think 2.0 is enough on the BH, it is a bit directer and little bit easier to block than max. The difference is not dramatic, but still, I think 2.0 would be enough for you now.

The H3 and similar rubbers have different sponge, and it will feel slower to you. For some people it will feel too slow. The feedback is different and some people love it, while some people hate it. Definitely if you try H3 (e.g. only on FH, I'd suggest hardness H37 first) it is very controlled setup - and then you can decide whether you like it or hate it.

Using these type of rubbers is not very common in europe, but I think they are very very good for development, as they will require you to put effort to almost every stroke, even more than rubbers like the mentioned G1 (which is not very fast itself). So, imo, there is nothing wrong with trying, but of course the question is, will you like it or not...
 
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I see! Although I've read a few articles and reviews, many say Bluefire M2 shines more on backhand and that it's a backhand rubber all the way... Does that make any sense and how true is that?
My friend played m2, it plays like t05 but slower with less spin. The only reason ppl say it's for bh is because it is softer than m1. M1 is good but is harder than m2 and can be hard for begginers to use to its full potential. M2 is better for mid/low level.
 
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Max is sometimes 2.2 (usually in ESN), sometimes could be 2.3, and in chinese rubbers it is usually only max, which is 2.1 or 2.15. I think you don't need to be afraid of having max also on the BH, however, I think 2.0 is enough on the BH, it is a bit directer and little bit easier to block than max. The difference is not dramatic, but still, I think 2.0 would be enough for you now.

The H3 and similar rubbers have different sponge, and it will feel slower to you. For some people it will feel too slow. The feedback is different and some people love it, while some people hate it. Definitely if you try H3 (e.g. only on FH, I'd suggest hardness H37 first) it is very controlled setup - and then you can decide whether you like it or hate it.

Using these type of rubbers is not very common in europe, but I think they are very very good for development, as they will require you to put effort to almost every stroke, even more than rubbers like the mentioned G1 (which is not very fast itself). So, imo, there is nothing wrong with trying, but of course the question is, will you like it or not...
I see! I appreciate the explanation. As for DHS Hurricane 3 Neo, it kind of piqued my interest also... Well, yeah, it's difficult to predict if I would like it or not - if it's for me or not, that is. You mentioned H37, what's the main difference between just normal DHS Hurricane 3 Neo? Also, If I were to choose one for backhand and one for forehand, which thickness and hardness would you recommend for each, considering my case?

And, additionally, is there some huge difference between normal and provincial ones? I've looked into it and it seemed confusing. There were H37 soft, then H37 Provincial version, National also. Too many options... 😅 I apologize for asking too many questions in advance
 
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My friend played m2, it plays like t05 but slower with less spin. The only reason ppl say it's for bh is because it is softer than m1. M1 is good but is harder than m2 and can be hard for begginers to use to its full potential. M2 is better for mid/low level.
Oh, now I understand. Thank you
 
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I see! I appreciate the explanation. As for DHS Hurricane 3 Neo, it kind of piqued my interest also... Well, yeah, it's difficult to predict if I would like it or not - if it's for me or not, that is. You mentioned H37, what's the main difference between just normal DHS Hurricane 3 Neo? Also, If I were to choose one for backhand and one for forehand, which thickness and hardness would you recommend for each, considering my case?

And, additionally, is there some huge difference between normal and provincial ones? I've looked into it and it seemed confusing. There were H37 soft, then H37 Provincial version, National also. Too many options... 😅 I apologize for asking too many questions in advance

Don't worry that happens with iron regularity here on TTD... The diff. between normal H3 and H3 Neo is a scam put simply, I don't want to go to details, easiest is to ignore it... The H3, B2 (Battle 2) you get them only in 2.1 and 2.15, there is no choice of thickness...

The hardness matters, and in an ideal world I'd suggest just try H37 on the FH, it is about the same hardness as the G1. However, H3 H37 is a bit more expensive, so getting the cheapest H3 H38 comm. is still good enough and fulfills the objective - that you can find out how you like those rubbers. You could also go for Battle 2 H38, even cheaper, similar enough for you to get the feeling...

The hardness goes to H41, or H42, it will become matter of preference later on if you stay on those... The comm/prov/nat is a matter of money, and yes, prov. is better than comm. (nat. too exp. for me to try). Even DHS prov. is expensive enough for us amateurs to look for alternatives like B2, Rxton etc... However, I think the comm/prov/nat distinction doesn't matter now...

Ah, you asked about FH/BH, if you insist on getting both, I'd suggest H37 on the BH and H38 on the FH.
 
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Don't worry that happens with iron regularity here on TTD... The diff. between normal H3 and H3 Neo is a scam put simply, I don't want to go to details, easiest is to ignore it... The H3, B2 (Battle 2) you get them only in 2.1 and 2.15, there is no choice of thickness...

The hardness matters, and in an ideal world I'd suggest just try H37 on the FH, it is about the same hardness as the G1. However, H3 H37 is a bit more expensive, so getting the cheapest H3 H38 comm. is still good enough and fulfills the objective - that you can find out how you like those rubbers. You could also go for Battle 2 H38, even cheaper, similar enough for you to get the feeling...

The hardness goes to H41, or H42, it will become matter of preference later on if you stay on those... The comm/prov/nat is a matter of money, and yes, prov. is better than comm. (nat. too exp. for me to try). Even DHS prov. is expensive enough for us amateurs to look for alternatives like B2, Rxton etc... However, I think the comm/prov/nat distinction doesn't matter now...

Ah, you asked about FH/BH, if you insist on getting both, I'd suggest H37 on the BH and H38 on the FH.
Oh, I see. 😅 Thank you once again for your time and provided explanation, it's more clear now. Regarding my question "difference between normal DHS Hurricane 3 Neo and H37" I meant this: https://revspin.net/rubber/dhs-neo-hurricane-3.html

There is no hardness provided here. Is this just general review of the rubber without taking the hardness into account?

As for H37, it's considered soft? So, this would be the correct one? https://www.tabletennis11.com/other_eng/dhs-hurricane-3-neo-soft
 
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Oh, I see. 😅 Thank you once again for your time and provided explanation, it's more clear now. Regarding my question "difference between normal DHS Hurricane 3 Neo and H37" I meant this: https://revspin.net/rubber/dhs-neo-hurricane-3.html

There is no hardness provided here. Is this just general review of the rubber without taking the hardness into account?

As for H37, it's considered soft? So, this would be the correct one? https://www.tabletennis11.com/other_eng/dhs-hurricane-3-neo-soft

The Neo has glue layer on the sponge to keep the booster longer, but apart from that it is the same rubber. So whether you buy normal on Neo doesn't matter, again simplified...

I don't read revspin reviews, the BS ratio is too high. I much prefer reading pers. experiences of people here on TTD, from which I can decode what I need.

H37 is the softest among H3s (well there is H3-50 which is diff. sponge), but H37 hardness is cca 47-48 on the ESN scale, so not that soft actually. Note that many very good players still can play with T05 which is cca 46-47, so hard enough for let's say semi-profis.

I suggest H37, and if not then H38, and if not then H39, for you now... You know when you try, it will become clear, and then it will be just a preference, these are not hard-lines...

Edit: You asked about the H3 H37 soft, yes, that is the one, you can see the 37 there. However, you can get H3 H38 commercial for half the price on Ali. You could also check harty's https://www.dhs-729.eu.
 
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The Neo has glue layer on the sponge to keep the booster longer, but apart from that it is the same rubber. So whether you buy normal on Neo doesn't matter, again simplified...

I don't read revspin reviews, the BS ratio is too high. I much prefer reading pers. experiences of people here on TTD, from which I can decode what I need.

H37 is the softest among H3s (well there is H3-50 which is diff. sponge), but H37 hardness is cca 47-48 on the ESN scale, so not that soft actually. Note that many very good players still can play with T05 which is cca 46-47, so hard enough for let's say semi-profis.

I suggest H37, and if not then H38, and if not then H39, for you now... You know when you try, it will become clear, and then it will be just a preference, these are not hard-lines...

Edit: You asked about the H3 H37 soft, yes, that is the one, you can see the 37 there. However, you can get H3 H38 commercial for half the price on Ali. You could also check harty's https://www.dhs-729.eu.
Ah, fairs, thank you once again 😁 I just can't seem to find H38 anywhere... H37 is there, everything's fine, however, when it comes to H39, there's only provincial and up, at least on "tabletennis11" store. As for Aliexpress, I do not know, maybe it's just me, but it's bit difficult to believe the legitimacy of equipment there. I've had my experiences with them in the past with other items... Have you personally ordered table tennis equipment from there?


Edit: Resolves the first issue, found everything on the site you provided - https://www.dhs-729.eu/
 
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Ah, fairs, thank you once again 😁 I just can't seem to find H38 anywhere... H37 is there, everything's fine, however, when it comes to H39, there's only provincial and up, at least on "tabletennis11" store. As for Aliexpress, I do not know, maybe it's just me, but it's bit difficult to believe the legitimacy of equipment there. I've had my experiences with them in the past with other items... Have you personally ordered table tennis equipment from there?

Yes, many times. I didn't receive something "false" so far... Luck? ;-)
 
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Yes, many times. I didn't receive something "false" so far... Luck? ;-)
Oh, well, maybe not. Maybe I was just unlucky 😅


Seems like the legit/original one. Well, judging from reviews and purchases...

What thickness do you recommend for each side? Hardness, as you've said forehand - H38, backhand - H37. Although they don't seem to have H37 available
 
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Oh, well, maybe not. Maybe I was just unlucky 😅


Seems like the legit/original one. Well, judging from reviews and purchases...

What thickness do you recommend for each side? Hardness, as you've said forehand - H38, backhand - H37. Although they don't seem to have H37 available

The link seems good to me. The H37 I saw here:


Funny that I saw it for 25E couple of hours ago - as we click, the price goes up ;-)

So, thickness, generally I prefer 2.0 on the BH, so I'd take 2.1 red on the BH and for the FH I'd take 2.15 black.

harty's prices seem fair to me too, he offer's both H37, H38, both normal and neo...
 
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No particular recommendations here (because it's hella confusing putting everyone's very specific opinions into perspective) but here's my general point of view:

1. a "carbon" Atemi (or any other premade bat marked as "carbon" that I know of) is incomparable to a professional grade blade. They're usually dull, heavy and slow although a blade with balsa might be ok-ish in terms of weight. Put it on a scale, see what the setup weighs right now!

2. If you feel like you've moved past the pre-made bat stage, go for it.

3. Given you've been playing for less than a year, I'm assuming you're still heavily developing your technique. I would default to 5-ply all wood blades for that.

4. Get a blade that has a lot of reviews and user experiences, something well known. You can use that knowledge later when you want to move to different rubbers. (Keep in mind that reviews might be from before ball changes etc.)

5. Get a blade that isn't extreme in anything. Today's ball does warrant getting a blade that's faster than average, but I wouldn't go for flat out fast blades.

6. Get a rubber that isn't extreme in anything either, and get it in a thickness commonly used. It makes for easier comparison, as well as finding out where your technique is the problem and where the gear might be limiting (in the future)

As long as you pick a decent blade, you can use it for years on end. I like a few of the suggestions (Korbel, YEO) but that's just my preference. Getting anything in that speed range will work well.
 
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I get on really well with the Xiom Offensive S Blade and it sounds like it would suit your needs too. The Xiom Vega rubbers could also help, lots of different types and I certainly don't know the range well enough but for me the Vega Euro DF on backhand is great, as is Vega Pro on forehand
Thank you for your input! Yeah, I've heard of Xiom Offensive S, many say it's similar to Petr Korbel, just tad bit faster. I've certainly read great things about this setup, I definitely have it under consideration as well :)
 
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