Blade defect after sealing?

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wait a day .. maybe it settles. If so, then there should be no problem when you attache the rubbers because the wood is sealed and no moist will influence the wood.
but honestly.. I wouldn't be happy.
Well...I really hate to say it, but there *is* a problem really.... Quite possibly several problems actually.

The problem is that blade (most probably) has patches of either missing glue (or else sub-standard adhesion at best) directly underneath the outer layer. That really isn't going to give you very consistent bounce or playing feel. It also means the blade is at increased risk of warping, and (depending on the type of rubber glue ) you can bet those patches of poorly adhered outer layer are going to lift and splinter the next time you change your rubbers.

My advice: ditch the blade completely and ask for your money back.
 
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What I can say though is that atleast Xiom send me another blade as a replacement, and their communication was very fast. Nonetheless, what a day. Two very expensive blades, one totally ruined, one maybe fine or maybe not… this is not what you want or expect when paying for the premium line of their blades.

I have been almost exclusively using Xiom gear since I started TT again about 2-3 years ago..but this experience leaves a bitter aftertaste, thats for sure

To be honest, I genuinely prefer the soft hitting feeling of the 36.5 ALX over the metallic feeling of most Viscaria‘s nowadays. But, keeping in mind the quality control and the fact that the 36.5 lineup has officialy run out and will no longer be sold in Europe (ALX and ALXi), I will have to get myself a Viscaria to play with another blade of that composition
 
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In further news, it's interesting to me that Xiom (according to what they told you) are apparently embracing / using / trialling / shifting to cold press layups.... I wonder why that is? 🤔🤔 Given the volumes they do, I would have assumed they would be using a hot press to shorten the drying time.

In even further news, W.T. ACTUAL F. was that Xiom rep thinking???

Did they really just tell a customer exactly what press method and drying temp they using to make that particular blade????

Not only that, did they also just openly admit that their chosen manufacturing process actually makes their products more prone to defects / delamination when using water based sealant?????

That is either some really potentially internally sensitive manufacturing IP they are giving away for free, as well as a major manufacturing defect they are openly admitting to.... Or else they're just feeding you baseless bullshit*t to try and placate you.
I'm not a blade maker, but it is specifically part of Xiom's marketing for that blade that they use a cold press process, and that's why they name that blade series "36.5" for 36.5 degrees. So I don't think they're giving away any secrets with that.

Otherwise, I totally agree with what you and other blade makers in this thread are saying about the uneven gluing under the top ply. It's quite surprising bc I generally think of Xiom as having a high manufacturing standard.

Makes me wonder about other manufacturers as well...I've never had this happen with a blade, but I also haven't used water-based sealants. Is there a way to detect/avoid a problem like this without applying water to the blade's face? Maybe something like blade weight -- could some lighter blades weigh less in part because less slightly less glue was used to assemble the layers? Would appreciate your and other blade makers' thoughts!
 
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Well...I really hate to say it, but there *is* a problem really.... Quite possibly several problems actually.

The problem is that blade (most probably) has patches of either missing glue (or else sub-standard adhesion at best) directly underneath the outer layer. That really isn't going to give you very consistent bounce or playing feel. It also means the blade is at increased risk of warping, and (depending on the type of rubber glue ) you can bet those patches of poorly adhered outer layer are going to lift and splinter the next time you change your rubbers.

My advice: ditch the blade completely and ask for your money back.

What I can say though is that atleast Xiom send me another blade as a replacement, and their communication was very fast. Nonetheless, what a day. Two very expensive blades, one totally ruined, one maybe fine or maybe not… this is not what you want or expect when paying for the premium line of their blades. I dont want to think about if the wood has become loose or not for a blade that has 229€ MRSP.

I have been almost exclusively using Xiom gear since I started TT again about 2-3 years ago..but this experience leaves a bitter aftertaste, thats for sure

To be honest, I genuinely prefer the soft hitting feeling of the 36.5 ALX over the metallic feeling of most Viscaria‘s nowadays. But, keeping in mind the quality control and the fact that the 36.5 lineup has officialy run out and will no longer be sold in Europe (ALX and ALXi), I will have to get myself a Viscaria to play with another blade of that composition

I am still amazed what people can see from some photos and are willing to give expert opinion. They must have all been to specsavers.

Copy/pasted from #12
Xiom responded to me that they will send me a replacement blade, acknowledging that because of the 36.5 Cold Press process, it could happen that sealant might cause issues in some cases.
 
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I am still amazed what people can see from some photos and are willing to give expert opinion. They must have all been to specsavers.

Copy/pasted from #12
Xiom responded to me that they will send me a replacement blade, acknowledging that because of the 36.5 Cold Press process, it could happen that sealant might cause issues in some cases.
I was simply stating what Xiom told me.

During my conversation with them, they also told me that „(…) blades can be extra sealed if customer want to avoid from possibility of damage when rubber takes off. Normally this damage happens with light Limba wood, as a production for example TMXi, ALXi, HAL, SAL“

If you know the construction of HAL/SAL blades, you will get my point..

Official Information can be wrong, as just highlighted. So the opinion of experts / blade makers are very much appreciated.
 
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acknowledging that because of the 36.5 Cold Press process, it could happen that sealant might cause issues in some cases.
To admit this in writing (i would like to see it) is either an incredible noble act or an incredibly stupid one. It would show that the manufacturer has decided to use a process that has serious shortcomings. I am all for experimenting and trying out new processes etc but even in my humble workshop I can find some glues that one would need a grinder to remove and they kick off at lower and higher temperatures than 36.5 deg.
 
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To admit this in writing (i would like to see it) is either an incredible noble act or an incredibly stupid one. It would show that the manufacturer has decided to use a process that has serious shortcomings. I am all for experimenting and trying out new processes etc but even in my humble workshop I can find some glues that one would need a grinder to remove and they kick off at lower and higher temperatures than 36.5 deg.
My point is that I dont even know if the person I wrote with can be sure of this information, as some of their other infos regarding blades was incorrect aswell
 
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I was simply stating what Xiom told me.

During my conversation with them, they also told me that „(…) blades can be extra sealed if customer want to avoid from possibility of damage when rubber takes off. Normally this damage happens with light Limba wood, as a production for example TMXi, ALXi, HAL, SAL“

If you know the construction of HAL/SAL blades, you will get my point..

Official Information can be wrong, as just highlighted. So the opinion of experts / blade makers are very much appreciated.
This is so sad, i have ALXi and ordered the TMXi :(, so what should i do? Be really carefulll when taking the rubber off?
 
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Hmm.. What if the seller/distributor refused to replace or refund and states the sealing process was the cause?
I am only wondering, as there is a good chance as well that seller/distributor would not replace
maybe you have a problem with the english language grammar, or with reading because OP said he already got the blade replaced
 
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I have around 10+ Xiom Blades from the last 10 years they released (Vega Series, Feel Series, IceCream, SAL, 36.5 ALX, TMXi Pro) and have not one incident where the top ply was damaged by removing rubbers. Neither with Hinoki, nor Koto, nor Limba. Without any extra sealing of the blade.
So I would not be judging a whole companies QC because of a single customers incident. Since it happened to a single customer with two blades out of different production timeframes in a single store with the same sealing method and fluid, could also lead to more questions on the sealer than the blade producer IMHO.
 
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I'm not a blade maker, but it is specifically part of Xiom's marketing for that blade that they use a cold press process, and that's why they name that blade series "36.5" for 36.5 degrees. So I don't think they're giving away any secrets with that.

Otherwise, I totally agree with what you and other blade makers in this thread are saying about the uneven gluing under the top ply. It's quite surprising bc I generally think of Xiom as having a high manufacturing standard.

Makes me wonder about other manufacturers as well...I've never had this happen with a blade, but I also haven't used water-based sealants. Is there a way to detect/avoid a problem like this without applying water to the blade's face? Maybe something like blade weight -- could some lighter blades weigh less in part because less slightly less glue was used to assemble the layers? Would appreciate your and other blade makers' thoughts!
Thanks very much for that 🙂🙂 -- I honestly was not aware Xiom released that info as part of their marketing.

That is the first time I've personally heard of one of the majors releasing that sort of info about a production process (the press settings for a blade - just like the glues they use -- is not normally something they're willing to disclose or discuss.

Any chance you can point me towards the source itself? -- I'm very curious to see if they let such information slipon any of their other blades -- could be a fascinating read. 🙂

As for weighing a blade to gauge glue content, I'm sorry but that just wouldn't work -- wood just varies in density and mass far too much from board to board to make such a thing feasible. Likewise the density of wood glue can also vary considerably -- even a simple generic wood glue like type 1 PVA can vary in mass from brand to brand, depending on the solids content and the addition of any physical hardeners.

Put simply, there's no way to consistently spot a bad glue-up every time once a blade is actually finished. The only time you can really spot such problems consistently is during production.

The answer therefore is not to try and filter out the bad blades from the good once they hit the shelves. Instead, you need to ensure no bad ones ever reach the shelf in the first place.

Really, there are only two guaranteed ways I can currently think of, to consistently avoid lemons with bad glue lines:

1. - Buy blades from premium brands who are known for making great blades... Especially the Japanese makers (Butterfly, Nittaku, Darker etc...) I know these three brands in particular consistently make excellent product, as I'm often asked about trying to repair or modify a blade for someone (especially the handles). This gives me the opportunity to examine a good range of products up close. These three brands consistently have excellent levels of finish in the blades of theirs I see. Other Japanese brands may be equally good, but I really don't get nearly as many of them through my door, so I can't comment on them with any authority.

2. Buy from one of the better-known smaller makers out there. There's lots of really great bladesmiths who post regularly on the TTD boards, and many more besides who don't post nearly as often. Any of them/us could easily do a great job for you, as the one thing we all have in common is we all glue and lay-up our blade panels individually by hand, one blade at a time. When you make blade panels this way, it's a LOT harder for a bad one to creep through production and end up being sold. Apart from the fact it's impossible to miss a huge gaping dry spot on a veneer when you're gluing it by hand, and apart from the fact we all pride ourselves on our product, it's also simple truth that we also don't have the luxury of hiding any examples of shoddy workmanship or low production standards via huge volumes. We do not mass produce these things... Our businesses all run on low turnover/ high quality & high cost production models. Every bad review we get or sub-standard blade we make can affect our bottom line through loss of viable work hours and simple reputational damage.
Put simply, if we wish to survive, our margins for error with our products need to be much, much, smaller than our competitors. Xiom however don't exactly have that problem... They churn out well over a thousand blades a year, so with those numbers, there's less reputational damage if 3-5% of them are lemons. With us smaller makers however, a 3-5% failure rate is a surefire road to bankruptcy. We simply don't have the margins, the turnover, the marketing budget or the production capacity to allow that many bad blades to leave our workshops.

Hope this helps. 🙂
 
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No need to bash Xiom for this, in fact they made the right think and took responsibility, they will replace the blade, so good on them. Also, no need to bash the shop or the sealers in general, all that sealing did was expose a pre-existing manufacturing mistake. I'm still not sure if it really is or not, but if it is, the OP would be playing with a blade with a partially unglued top layer.

I'm almost certain Xiom doesn't make these blades, they just sell the "technology" under their own brand. Joola also as a line of blades with cold press "technology". Here I'm just assuming because I don't know what exactly it consists of, but I guess they are just using some sort of polyurethane or polymer based glue, which can be clamped at room temperature and doesn't need heat activation. The problem with these glues, is that they need very uniform pressure, to make sure all the wood surface is in contact, otherwise there will be no bond. The amount of glue is also important. A common misconception, or at least my vision of things, is that we regulate the feeling of a blade with glue. Ideally, the perfect blade would have no glue at all, that's the purest feeling you can have. With PU glue we are trying to use as less as possible, just enough to have a good bond. The problem is that, for several reasons, "just enough" sometimes it's not enough. The important thing is that Xiom did the right with the customer.
 
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No need to bash Xiom for this, in fact they made the right think and took responsibility, they will replace the blade, so good on them. Also, no need to bash the shop or the sealers in general, all that sealing did was expose a pre-existing manufacturing mistake. I'm still not sure if it really is or not, but if it is, the OP would be playing with a blade with a partially unglued top layer.

I'm almost certain Xiom doesn't make these blades, they just sell the "technology" under their own brand. Joola also as a line of blades with cold press "technology". Here I'm just assuming because I don't know what exactly it consists of, but I guess they are just using some sort of polyurethane or polymer based glue, which can be clamped at room temperature and doesn't need heat activation. The problem with these glues, is that they need very uniform pressure, to make sure all the wood surface is in contact, otherwise there will be no bond. The amount of glue is also important. A common misconception, or at least my vision of things, is that we regulate the feeling of a blade with glue. Ideally, the perfect blade would have no glue at all, that's the purest feeling you can have. With PU glue we are trying to use as less as possible, just enough to have a good bond. The problem is that, for several reasons, "just enough" sometimes it's not enough. The important thing is that Xiom did the right with the customer.
You raised a interesting point Sergio re: clamping at room temp -- it made me think Xiom might conceivably be using a contact cement of some sort rather then a traditional wet layup, as that way they're not reliant on heat to get a decent cure time.

I've never actually experimented much with contact cement myself apart from a few material tests. I find using contact cement means you get an instant bond with zero open time, which creates the problem of trying to get even pressure across the entire panel in a really, really tiny time-window (ie: where varying the clamping pressure can still positively affect cohesion.)

Out of sheer curiosity, have you ever tried a dry contact cement lay-up with any of your blades? If so, how did it go? I ask because it occurs to me (in theory) the really short open time might possibly account for the existence of the (suspected) air bubbles that seemingly caused the original problem (it would also potentially tie in with your theories about the adhesives they use).
 
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Xiom has been very good in replacing things - a kind-of no question ask approach where most brands would just say no, even after you provide lots of evidence.

I had a few incident where things were replaced for free and they didn't ask too much question to validate if I am honest or not.
I am a Xiom distributor, just so you know.

overall, customer service from them is probably one of the best from all the brands I have dealt with.
This includes customers asking Xiom questions on where to buy and what not.
The emails get replied promptly like they should be.
 
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