Difference of sealers?

[Michael Zhuang]

When you seal a blade, is there a specific sealer that you need to use?

What is the difference of sealing a blade with wood stain vs polyutherane vs varnish?

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

When you seal a blade, is there a specific sealer that you need to use?

What is the difference of sealing a blade with wood stain vs polyutherane vs varnish?

Wood Stain is not a sealant. A sealant is something that makes the wood protected from WATER. Stain just colors the wood.

Sealant should make the wood water proof. So if you spilled water on a blade that had been properly sealed, the water would never touch the wood; it would only touch the sealant.

Varnish....Laquer....different versions of clear or semiclear substances you can apply to wood as a protective coating....I would not worry what version. If it can seal the blade and protect the wood from water, that is what you are looking for.

I like polyurethane sealants because you can use a very thin layer that you will not feel and that will not change the playing characteristics of the blade that will still protect the blade from water damage.

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

But the priority should be that you are looking for something that will protect the wood from water damage. If it makes it easier to take the rubbers off without damaging the wood grain, that is also a plus in my opinion.

 

[ejprinz]

Usually wood stain doesn't seal the wood, it changes its color. So after staining the wood still has to be sealed. I think varnish is the general term for coatings of wood. So, polyurethane varnish is a type of varnish which contains polyurethane. It covers the wood with a thin film of a water-repellant chemical and so seals it. I only use a very thin film (I wipe off the excess polyurethane), and I am using WalMart MinWax satin polyurethane varnish. I also seal the handle which may make it a little slippery if it is very smooth. So I am not sanding the handle smooth.
Also the playing surface should only get a very thin coat of varnish.

 

[Michael Zhuang]

But the priority should be that you are looking for something that will protect the wood from water damage. If it makes it easier to take the rubbers off without damaging the wood grain, that is also a plus in my opinion.

What is the purpose of making the blade water proof? Water doesnt typically land onto the blade surface.

My main goal is that I noticed some of my blades splintering when I peel off rubber. I want to protect the surface from splintering.

 

[Michael Zhuang]

I read that wood stain in kitchen and housing is used to provide some level of protection, so I thought that it does provide some protection and not just color.

 

[Lazer]

You can mix oil (i.e linseed) with stain, then you will get protection. I use this all the time it’s the be best protection. But it doesn’t protect from splintering. For this you’ll need lawyer. But it’s less of a problem today with the modern glues which are milder. Most important is how you remove old rubbers. You should do it against the grain from side to side. NOT from top to bottom..

Cheers
L-zr

 

[DukeGaGa]

What is the purpose of making the blade water proof? Water doesnt typically land onto the blade surface.

My main goal is that I noticed some of my blades splintering when I peel off rubber. I want to protect the surface from splintering.

Water actually land on the blade surface all the time, remember that VOC free glue is water based, and the sweat from your hand will be in contact with the handle.

If your main goal is to prevent splinters, then mostly any sealant will work, Joola, DHS, Revolution, and most name brands have a sealant product available. I personally use Joola varnish, but I also heard the Minwax is a good choice, I think UpSideDownCarl might be using this since he said he likes polyurethane based sealant.

 

[DukeGaGa]

Wood Stain is not a sealant. A sealant is something that makes the wood protected from WATER. Stain just colors the wood.

Sealant should make the wood water proof. So if you spilled water on a blade that had been properly sealed, the water would never touch the wood; it would only touch the sealant.

Varnish....Laquer....different versions of clear or semiclear substances you can apply to wood as a protective coating....I would not worry what version. If it can seal the blade and protect the wood from water, that is what you are looking for.

I like polyurethane sealants because you can use a very thin layer that you will not feel and that will not change the playing characteristics of the blade that will still protect the blade from water damage.

Since my Joola varnish is about to run out, I'm tempted to try a polyurethane sealant, which one are you using? I see Minwax has two wipe on style sealant, one of which is water based like Joola varnish.
https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/clear-protective-finishes/wipe-ons/minwax-wipe-on-poly
https://www.minwax.com/wood-product...shes/wipe-ons/minwax-water-based-wipe-on-poly

After searching a bit more, it looks like there's actually 4 wipe-on style ones, since they have gloss and satin finishes for either type (oil based vs. water based).

 

[Michael Zhuang]

Water actually land on the blade surface all the time, remember that VOC free glue is water based, and the sweat from your hand will be in contact with the handle.

If your main goal is to prevent splinters, then mostly any sealant will work, Joola, DHS, Revolution, and most name brands have a sealant product available. I personally use Joola varnish, but I also heard the Minwax is a good choice, I think UpSideDownCarl might be using this since he said he likes polyurethane based sealant.

I actually put a layer of Minwax Wood Stain on the blade already, thinking it would provide some protection. Does the Wood Stain not provide any protection at all? I was planning on then adding a layer of polyutherane on top of the Wood Stain.

Is there anything I can use to cause the already splintering sections to stick to the blade and not get worse?

 

[DukeGaGa]

I actually put a layer of Minwax Wood Stain on the blade already, thinking it would provide some protection. Does the Wood Stain not provide any protection at all? I was planning on then adding a layer of polyutherane on top of the Wood Stain.

Is there anything I can use to cause the already splintering sections to stick to the blade and not get worse?

I'm under the impression that wood stain only color the wood. It's like the base coat for car paint, base coat provides the color, clear coat protect the base coat color.

As for making the splinters stick back to the blade surface, applying some varnish or other sealant might help, since it sticks to the wood quite well, might act as a glue of some sort.

 

[Lazer]

Putting only stain will ONLY make it look differently. Use a thin layer of any standard varnish on the blade and oil (I use raw linseed oil) on the handle if it is not finnished.
- I ALWAYS seal my hinoki blades because it is a soft wood type that splinters very easily, other woods depends...
- Old wood is drier and splinters more easily.
- When removing old rubbers do it ACROSS the grains (side to side).

Cheers
L-zr

 

[Dominikk85]

What is the purpose of making the blade water proof? Water doesnt typically land onto the blade surface.

My main goal is that I noticed some of my blades splintering when I peel off rubber. I want to protect the surface from splintering.

Modern glues are water based since the oil (voc) based glues have been banned. I can't confirm that but players are reporting that bats get heavier after several glueings because they soak water from the glue

 

[Lazer]

Modern glues are water based since the oil (voc) based glues have been banned. I can't confirm that but players are reporting that bats get heavier after several glueings because they soak water from the glue

That's natural, If the wood is naked it will also change density according to climate.
Old wood is dryer than fresh. Dryer wood attract water more easily.
But the water attracted by the glue is miniscule. It's far more likely that it is glue residue leftovers on the blade that is measured...

Cheers
L-zr

 

[SURF]

A lot of good info in here.
This is not my field of expertise, but I like to learn new things.
Thank you

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

Since my Joola varnish is about to run out, I'm tempted to try a polyurethane sealant, which one are you using? I see Minwax has two wipe on style sealant, one of which is water based like Joola varnish.
https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/clear-protective-finishes/wipe-ons/minwax-wipe-on-poly
https://www.minwax.com/wood-product...shes/wipe-ons/minwax-water-based-wipe-on-poly

After searching a bit more, it looks like there's actually 4 wipe-on style ones, since they have gloss and satin finishes for either type (oil based vs. water based).

I like the old fashioned oil based sealants. Why put water on the blade when you are trying to protect the wood from water.

I use the old fashioned Oil Based MinWax Wipe On Poly. Since you are covering it up, it makes no difference whether it is gloss or satin. Choose one. Either is fine.

 

[TTboy]

I think that might be one of the reasons, why pros let their bat dry for several hours after applying glue on it.
1st the glue is drier and 2nd the water can evaporate.

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

STAINING THE WOOD WILL NOT PROTECT THE WOOD. DRAWING ON THE WOOD WITH A MAGIC MARKER WILL NOT PROTECT THE WOOD. STAINING THE WOOD IS MORE LIKE PUTTING INK ON THE WOOD THAN ANYTHING ELSE.

If every time you put glue on your blade you are putting water on the blade, over time it damages the blade and causes the blade to be slower and feel duller. So, if you want to replace your blade every so often because you did not seal it, then that does not matter. But protecting the blade face from the water in the glue seems like a useful idea to me.

I WOULD NOT SEAL THE HANDLE. I like to feel the wood under my hand AND I do not want to feel plastic or poly or varnish of any kind on the wood. I also want my sweat to sink into the wood and not stay on the surface of the wood of the handle. Most intelligent blade makers use wood that absorbs sweat well in the handle. So I like to let the handle perform this function. The handle absorbing sweat and they drying does not change the playing characteristics of the blade face. And I DON'T CARE WHAT THE HANDLE LOOKS LIKE so I would not seal the handle. I cannot see any intelligent reason for sealing the handle and all it could possibly do is make the handle look better but make the handle not perform some of the functions it is supposed to.

You should be able to hold the handle WITHOUT IT BEING SLIPPERY.

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

I actually put a layer of Minwax Wood Stain on the blade already, thinking it would provide some protection. Does the Wood Stain not provide any protection at all? I was planning on then adding a layer of polyutherane on top of the Wood Stain.

Is there anything I can use to cause the already splintering sections to stick to the blade and not get worse?

Can you post a photo of the part of your blade that you are talking about. Trying to give advice on this is not that different than trying to give advice on anything when you CANNOT SEE THE ACTUAL ISSUE.

But one thing is for sure, SEALANT WILL NOT GLUE SPLINTERING PIECES OF WOOD BACK ONTO THE BLADE FACE. However, wood glue might. You also may need to glue and CLAMP the area that needs to adhere to the blade.

Most of the stuff being asked in this thread are common sense wood working issues. You could find someone who is a carpenter and ask him all the questions you wanted in person. Someone who knows wood working would know the answers to the issues and questions in this thread.

 

[Lazer]

Can you post a photo of the part of your blade that you are talking about. Trying to give advice on this is not that different than trying to give advice on anything when you CANNOT SEE THE ACTUAL ISSUE.

But one thing is for sure, SEALANT WILL NOT GLUE SPLINTERING PIECES OF WOOD BACK ONTO THE BLADE FACE. However, wood glue might. You also may need to glue and CLAMP the area that needs to adhere to the blade.

Most of the stuff being asked in this thread are common sense wood working issues. You could find someone who is a carpenter and ask him all the questions you wanted in person. Someone who knows wood working would know the answers to the issues and questions in this thread.

If You already suffered from splintering and it is small You can use several layers of laquer to fix this.

ALSO oiling Your handle is great. It will protect from moisture AND retain the wood feel (Just need to wipe it an extra time...)
I do NOT want the sweat to be absorbed by my handle...

Cheers
L-zr