Friendship 729 battle 3

[Zwill]

I tink the question about hardness comparation important because i'm still searching the perfect degree of hurricane, atually that one 40° nacional BS is ON FIRE ... but to find another option, more cheaper and durable, is so important too.

The battle 3 rubber, does exist only the commercial version by the way ?

Some people like the Loki Rxton 9, Battle 2 national BS. I personally liked the Dingtian Young Shine BS, Double Fish Volant Phoenix and I think the Double Fish Qiji blue sponge boosted is good. So many options, the cheap ones now are the Double Fishes and B3.

B3 only in one version at the moment.

 

[Zwill]

Thanks dude, great detail there.

Do you prefer the B3 over all of them?

I had a red and black Rakza Z (regular) and the Red definitely felt softer. I wonder if it's just the properties of the red top sheet, black rubber being hardest.... But I played the Red 6 hrs a wk for a yr so that sponge was well and truly softened whereas my black sheet is only 2 mths in, it will probably soften a little with more play time, will see.
I find that there is plenty of spin from Big Dipper but it's a new sheet so will see in a few mths how it is. If it softens a lot I may try it for BH. I have a sheet of Moon 12 38° on the way so will compare it with that for BH.
For FH I haven't tried the Yinhe JA3 yet but while I'm doing this maybe I will bite the bullet and buy a B3 as well.
I'm using this summer to experiment with equipment a bit before LGE starts again in October.
I'm trying all of these rubbers on my Yasaka all wood blade before migrating to Nittaku Acoustic, it arrived last week.
Will put my old rubbers on that for direct comparison of blades before eventually trying all the Chinese rubbers on it.
Anyway bla bla bla me me me...
Looking fwd to posting some of my observations later in the yr, until then it'll be interesting and my biggest hope is I will love the €15 Chinese rubbers because my current (Rakza Z and X soft) are too expensive for me now!

Actually I just dug out my Rakza Z EH and glued it on an outer koto ZLC blade, pretty much like a Zhang Jike ZLC and I have to say it's a fair bit slower than B3 on the Cybershape. I'm pretty sure the Cybershape is slower and the B3 is faster and the B3 topsheet is much stronger.

 

[Sims]

Actually I just dug out my Rakza Z EH and glued it on an outer koto ZLC blade, pretty much like a Zhang Jike ZLC and I have to say it's a fair bit slower than B3 on the Cybershape. I'm pretty sure the Cybershape is slower and the B3 is faster and the B3 topsheet is much stronger.

Cheers dude, that's my mind made up, I'm ordering one to try for FH. Just have to decide on 38 or 39 hardness now 🤔
How the blog coming along, any new posts for us???

 

[andzejgolot]

39 is soft for me.

 

[Lawsy]

Cheers dude, that's my mind made up, I'm ordering one to try for FH. Just have to decide on 38 or 39 hardness now 🤔
How the blog coming along, any new posts for us???

39 for sure.
Although my 40 is still going strong, I'll slap the 39 on soonish because I'm looking for a bit more lazy midrange speed at the moment. Once I'm in a position to play more seriously again, I'll switch back to the 40, as it is ultimately a better rubber.

At least, that's the plan...We'll see.

B3 is quite well behaved, and the different hardnesses have those characteristic changes we all think about in theory (but often don't materialise in practice for many rubbers).

So the 38 will have tonnes of lazy speed, zippy serves, more dwell and attacking slow 3rd balls will be rather easy. And, because B3 rolls off gracefully, you can still step back and swing; it will do well enough.

As you go up in hardness, serves slow down, top end speeds up. I will say, I could step back with the 39 on my T11s, as far as I wanted in fact, and it kept up.

The 40 just does it better, as long as you can swing.

 

[Zwill]

Cheers dude, that's my mind made up, I'm ordering one to try for FH. Just have to decide on 38 or 39 hardness now 🤔
How the blog coming along, any new posts for us???

I agree with Lawsy, get 39 down in the middle and if you think you need a bit harder later or softer you will know. If unsure just go with mid hardness always for forehand and for backhand go for 45deg-ish or 34-35 in 729 or DHS scales.

One other thing about B3, so I sometimes play with my girlfriend who played pretty well during school times in Chengdu. She was obviously taught with whatever Chinese rubbers (H3 or 729). I made her a paddle of Fang Bo 2x carbon which is Ma Long 5x with pink handle and it's a thin handle so her tiny hands can grasp it well and it has 2 Rakza 7 soft now that I had like 5-6 years ago but didn't like. And she can play with them for sure but when I gave her my Cybershape with B3 40deg on FH her forehand became so much better... Like 200TTR better and I mean from 1200-1400 but still so amazing. So now I need to change one R7 Soft for something Chinese.
Forget my own impressions about B3 but my impression of her was very WOW. And all her hits were fast, and felt very impactful. The Cybershape sing-sang-sang? in her hands. (I'm tensing up)

Regarding my blog, I think I will add some public service announcements regarding gluing. And maybe next up will be a DHS Gold Arc 9 and Loki Telson comparison and maaaaaaybe mix in some Pinyi Tsunami form bro Gan with BTY spring sponge like sponge. I think this will be pretty sweet for the budget BH players, but if one deals with China budget means nothing. One can pay 1000USD for a device from China and it works awesome and can pay 200USD for a similar device and that is even better. Price literally means shit in China.

Also not sure I said this I think B3 totally makes C-touch ESN hybrids obsolete. So one can buy their Donic Bluegrip C2, Dragon Grip etc etc but those rubbers will not perform better in the long run. Sure on the first days, the ESN rubbers feel good and B3 will feel dead(er). But after 5 hours the German rubbers will have marks, after 10 one will be like WTF did I spend 50EUR for this (shite) for? And after 30 hours, and some cold conditions, you will feel like you wish you still used G-1 or Rakza 7 instead of said German Hybrids, while B3 will just get better and better.

And you know what; one rubber will feel like the rubber has magic, (German) so you need to buy more and more.
While B3 will feel like you are improving day by day. I am not sure who likes what but I prefer the feeling of getting better day by day even if it's just placebo and the rubber is getting better over shitting out 50EUR for K3 that makes me feel amazing for a week then after a week or two it makes me feel like I forgot to play.

 

[gerungrunge]

i want to get advice for all of you guys, my setup blade = donic original carbonspeed , FH = battle 3 (40) need advice for my backhand rubber, thanks

 

[PickleRick]

i want to get advice for all of you guys, my setup blade = donic original carbonspeed , FH = battle 3 (40) need advice for my backhand rubber, thanks

I play victas v11 extra on my carbospeed. It’s light, quite spinny and more than fast enough on the carbospeed.

 

[gerungrunge]

I play victas v11 extra on my carbospeed. It’s light, quite spinny and more than fast enough on the carbospeed.

did u use it on the backhand? what degree?

 

[PickleRick]

did u use it on the backhand? what degree?

Yeah, on the backhand. The rubber is around 47 degrees ESN hardness.

 

[jk1980]

I had a Battle 3 with hardness of 38 in my bag for quite some month and now I finally decided to glue it onto my blade, after I removed the Genextion from it. I was surprised that it was not really sticky or at least I could not lift a ball with it. I did not really plan to test it yet, but since I got the time and a training partner I decided to give it a try.
First hits went straight into the net ( having played a tensor for 70 minutes before). After 5 minutes of accommodation I played a match with it.

The experience was quite awesome. I could loop balls over the table that would even bounce twice on my side and my opponent blocked all loops over the table. The speed was more mediocre, when I looped spinny, but the spin was so much that he could not get it onto the table. On one occasion I was able to play a more forceful loop drive and the ball was quite fast.

My first impressions is that this is the ideal beginner rubber, because it gives you so much confidence to loop everything.

 

[Lawsy]

I had a Battle 3 with hardness of 38 in my bag for quite some month and now I finally decided to glue it onto my blade, after I removed the Genextion from it. I was surprised that it was not really sticky or at least I could not lift a ball with it. I did not really plan to test it yet, but since I got the time and a training partner I decided to give it a try.
First hits went straight into the net ( having played a tensor for 70 minutes before). After 5 minutes of accommodation I played a match with it.

The experience was quite awesome. I could loop balls over the table that would even bounce twice on my side and my opponent blocked all loops over the table. The speed was more mediocre, when I looped spinny, but the spin was so much that he could not get it onto the table. On one occasion I was able to play a more forceful loop drive and the ball was quite fast.

My first impressions is that this is the ideal beginner rubber, because it gives you so much confidence to loop everything.

Very interesting.
The 39 actually has quite a nice mid-speed boost in response and I would have thought the 38 would have exaggerated this and felt a bit faster. Sounds like 38 tones things down a bit and is a lot more beginner friendly, which is good to know in case I need to make recommendations to anyone who insists on having what I'm using.

Also, give the 38 a few more sessions, and a good clean, and it will only get better.

The 39 and 40 are less beginner friendly, since you do need to actually hit the ball... No free points. That doesn't make it difficult to play, though. However, when the impact speed increases, the harder variants really do come alive and if you thicken your contact on loops a bit, you'll find that there is actually a big reserve of speed waiting to go. To be clear, this adjustment is actually quite small, and is though you are asking for only a fraction less topspin than a normal loop. But it works, and once you get a feel for it, it becomes effortless.

B3 is a bit weird like that because it can seem slow when flat hitting, but is obviously amazing when looping, so it can be a surprise when you discover how efficient it can loop-drive.

 

[jk1980]

I will give the rubber a nice session with the robot before I join a regular training session with it on Wednesday.
I hope that I can break in the rubber at the robot this way and hopefully the properties do not change for the worse.

 

[longle]

But after 5 hours the German rubbers will have marks, after 10 one will be like WTF did I spend 50EUR for this (shite) for? And after 30 hours, and some cold conditions, you will feel like you wish you still used G-1 or Rakza 7 instead of said German Hybrids, while B3 will just get better and better.

exactly my thoughts. That's the reason why I ditched the hybrids (Dragon Grip is no1 for me) to come back to true Chinese rubbers. Don't know how they can make the topsheet of the H3/Battle last that long

 

[Lawsy]

I will give the rubber a nice session with the robot before I join a regular training session with it on Wednesday.
I hope that I can break in the rubber at the robot this way and hopefully the properties do not change for the worse.

Of the people who played long enough to break it in on this forum, I think the opinion that it improves is unanimously shared.

Unless I missed someone?

 

[_ak]

Don't know how they can make the topsheet of the H3/Battle last that long

Harder rubber in the topsheet

 

[longle]

Harder rubber in the topsheet

I mean the tackiness. H3 topsheet can keep its tackiness after years

 

[turbozed]

I mean the tackiness. H3 topsheet can keep its tackiness after years

I once had a faulty sheet of 729 Bloom Power where the tacky layer came off when I peeled the protection film from the rubber after gluing and cutting. What was underneath was non tacky.

So it might just be that whatever process they use for making the rubber surface tacky also affected it deeper into the rubber.

 

[longle]

I once had a faulty sheet of 729 Bloom Power where the tacky layer came off when I peeled the protection film from the rubber after gluing and cutting. What was underneath was non tacky.

So it might just be that whatever process they use for making the rubber surface tacky also affected it deeper into the rubber.

kinda agree with the tacky surface has some deep relationship with the topsheet, I noticed that the more I boost my H3, the stickier it becomes.

 

[Lazer]

kinda agree with the tacky surface has some deep relationship with the topsheet, I noticed that the more I boost my H3, the stickier it becomes.

I have noticed the opposite...

Cheers
L-zr