How to remove glue

[zeio]

1 to 2 layers for Finezip (thicker than other glue) on both sponge and blade. Really easy to peel and come off in one piece. Start peeling from the corner.

 

[Grahf]

I see this repeated so many times and I have yet to find it true of either glue on any rubber except H3 and similar hardness. Even on the hard rubbers it won't peel in a single sheet; I have to rub and peel it off in pieces, it just doesn't damage the sponge the way it does softer rubbers. How many layers do y'all use? Is there some secret technique I'm not following??

I peel the glue of old rubbers and from the racket like if im rolling it off the surface, using the fingertips carefully and slow, if you do it fast you can peel the sponge or the racket

For glue part, this works for me (only using DHS no. 15, other glues destroy the rubbers dont letting me reusing them) on Butterfly rubbers like dignis 05, DHS like H3 neo, Sanwei like target 3 national, Loki like arthur china and rxton 9, yasaka like thunder dragon. first you do the boosting if your rubber needs it, then like this:

- Apply 1 layer of DHS no. 15 on the rubber you want to glue, then leave it drying naturally for 15 min (no hot air guns or besides a fan, just leave it on desk or something drying naturally)

- After you applied the first layer on the rubber, then apply a second layer of DHS no. 15 on the same rubber and another layer on the racket, then leave both drying naturally for 15 min

- After the 15 min above, paste the rubber on the racket using carefully a roller to paste it uniformly

- Profit(???)

 

[greenbeanmachine]

I see this repeated so many times and I have yet to find it true of either glue on any rubber except H3 and similar hardness. Even on the hard rubbers it won't peel in a single sheet; I have to rub and peel it off in pieces, it just doesn't damage the sponge the way it does softer rubbers. How many layers do y'all use? Is there some secret technique I'm not following??

I use 2 or 3 layers on the sponge, and I let it dry for several hours (even up to a day) before putting it on.

I also use booster, so maybe that is making a difference. I haven't had problems with it even on soft cake sponge for Tenergy, etc.

 

[golden_son]

I use 2 or 3 layers on the sponge, and I let it dry for several hours (even up to a day) before putting it on.

I also use booster, so maybe that is making a difference. I haven't had problems with it even on soft cake sponge for Tenergy, etc.

When removing, I typically "roll" the glue the way Grahf mentioned, starting with a corner. But even if I can avoid damage I can never get it to peel in a single sheet. I've never heard of/thought of leaving the glue to dry for multiple hours. Something to try...if I can be patient enough 😆.

 

[lodro]

When removing, I typically "roll" the glue the way Grahf mentioned, starting with a corner. But even if I can avoid damage I can never get it to peel in a single sheet. I've never heard of/thought of leaving the glue to dry for multiple hours. Something to try...if I can be patient enough 😆.

For me the best glues are DHS15 and even better SUEKE. I always use 2 -3 layers on the sponge. With Sueke i can pull the glue off in big bits and often the whole lot in one piece.
I like it so much i bought the company 😂 😂 😂

 

[lodro]

1 to 2 layers for Finezip (thicker than other glue) on both sponge and blade. Really easy to peel and come off in one piece. Start peeling from the corner.

• Sep 14, 2023

on Sep 14, 2023, " Writhy 67" said:
Hi all

Let me start by saying I am pretty experienced in glueing rubbers onto blades (EJ anyone?)

I have used most glues in the past and after having some frustrations with normal viscosity Revolution, decided to try Finezip. I ordered a small tube and loved it - more viscosity and better adherence, whilst still being able to remove bot rubber and glue as needed (although not in one piece)

Fast forward and I bit the bulled and ordered a large 500ml tube (strange that it comes in a large tube as harder to ensure mixed)

This has been a nightmare - the first rubber I removed tore clean in half, which I chalked up to me being less careful (Now I know it wasn't that) I then reduced my normal two layers to one layer on rubber and one on blade and was more careful in limiting the glue. Since then I have found rubbers very difficult to remove - not impossible but attached so strongly that the process is slow and uncomfortable. Added to that the glue remains 30-50% on the blade (needing to then also be removed) which shows the strength of the bond to the sponge. The glue residue left on the sponge is a nightmare to remove, taking up to an hour and often pulling pieces of sponge out too. This morning another sheet of nearly new rubber tore in the sponge despite very careful removal.

I have not seen this reported as an issue by users of Finezip, so am assuming this might either be a batch issue or related to the large tube not mixing well (I always agitate it as much as possible) I certainly won't be using this glue again and have wasted half of an expensive tube.

Has anyone any ideas or experienced this with Finezip?

 

[belllfador]

I see this repeated so many times and I have yet to find it true of either glue on any rubber except H3 and similar hardness. Even on the hard rubbers it won't peel in a single sheet; I have to rub and peel it off in pieces, it just doesn't damage the sponge the way it does softer rubbers. How many layers do y'all use? Is there some secret technique I'm not following??

I am using 2 layers of glue on the rubber and one on the blade. After removing the rubber, the blade surface is mostly free of glue, so I have a total of 3 layers of glue that need to be peeled from the sponge. If the sponge has big pores, it is usually softer than 50 degrees, and pealing is not going easy. In such cases, I apply additional 2–3 layers of cheap glue to make a thicker glue layer. After that, I roll all edges just 3–5 mm, and pull with hand the glue edge.

 

[lodro]

I am using 2 layers of glue on the rubber and one on the blade. After removing the rubber, the blade surface is mostly free of glue, so I have a total of 3 layers of glue that need to be peeled from the sponge. If the sponge has big pores, it is usually softer than 50 degrees, and pealing is not going easy. In such cases, I apply additional 2–3 layers of cheap glue to make a thicker glue layer. After that, I roll all edges just 3–5 mm, and pull with hand the glue edge.

yep, i did that and just managed to save my
Rozena rubbers 😁

 

[po-stit]

Like other said before, DHS 15 and Sueke (Aliexpress glue) are the easiest ones to remove.
I like Butterfly glue because in my opinion it is the one who offers the best adhesion and also it feels slightly faster (it might be in my head).
To remove the Butterlfly glue on hard rubbers like D05 or D09c I use a pencil eraser like the one on the picture. To "break" in the glue at first i use a little bit of force but after that i just lightly rub it. Takes time and patience but it is doable.

 

[TimoGnoll]

My tip is instead of the finger to roll use the ball. Saves your skin and your fingers. + you are still very gentle when you do that and covers more area.
Chinese rubbers without porous sponge are really easy to deal with, but Euro rubbers it really depends how you do your first coat. If it goes deep into pores it is very unlikely you won't damage it. Especialy with softer ones.

 

[Egon]

In severe cases, an iron helps. There is no need to heat the rubber surface, but rather to work with the edge of the iron.

 

[sebi]

I struggled a lot with sponges ripping and glue leaving holes.
Solution is DHS No. 15.