I hit my Racket on the TT table

[deepanmania]

I hit my racket on the table during my practice. I'm using Fan Zhendong ALC. There is a small dent in the ply as seen in the picture. Do I need to do something to fix this or can I leave it like this? Kindly throw me some suggestions guys. This blade is just 6 months old and I have done this already 😣

 

[TensorBackhand]

I think you can just play on.

Instead of the edge tape, I recommend using a edge pad. It offers more cushion.

I see some people use the edge pad around the entire blade head. I don't like this, so I just use it on the down-facing side of the blade to prevent hitting the table.

 

[PaddyPolar]

What place did you hit the table? And at what angle was the bat. I've seen sort of dents before, but not a full on warp like yours.

It is an excuse to try another blade...😏😏😏

 

[deepanmania]

I think you can just play on.

Instead of the edge tape, I recommend using a edge pad. It offers more cushion.

I see some people use the edge pad around the entire blade head. I don't like this, so I just use it on the down-facing side of the blade to prevent hitting the table.

Sure, I'll try the edge pad.
I thought of glueing it to fill in that small crack. Would that be a wise idea?

 

[deepanmania]

What place did you hit the table? And at what angle was the bat. I've seen sort of dents before, but not a full on warp like yours.

It is an excuse to try another blade...😏😏😏

I hit the top of the racket head in the bottom of the table board while trying to snake the ball. It was the worst shot I did.
And I liked this setup FZD ALC + D05 and it's not even a year still 😣

 

[TensorBackhand]

Sure, I'll try the edge pad.
I thought of glueing it to fill in that small crack. Would that be a wise idea?

I often do put a little bit of glue on the edge of the blade to help the pad stick better.

 

[deepanmania]

I often do put a little bit of glue on the edge of the blade to help the pad stick better.

Nice, then I'll fill in some glue there.

 

[brokenball]

Sure, I'll try the edge pad.
I thought of glueing it to fill in that small crack. Would that be a wise idea?

I have damaged my paddles even worse. Yes, I put clue in the crack and then put the paddle in a vice.

 

[deepanmania]

I have damaged my paddles even worse. Yes, I put clue in the crack and then put the paddle in a vice.

The usual water-based glue to stick the rubbers or specific glue to stick wood materials?

 

[Der_Echte]

Hope the table is OK...

 

[riemsesy]

The usual water-based glue to stick the rubbers or specific glue to stick wood materials?

remove the rubbers. use wood glue for the paddle. use a vise of clamp and let it dry.
remove eventual excess wood glue and glue the rubbers back.

 

[TampaBayTableTennis]

tis but a scratch. looks like rubbers could be glued better but i doubt that damage will cause any issues

 

[brokenball]

The usual water-based glue to stick the rubbers or specific glue to stick wood materials?

There are wood glues. Don't use the glues you use to attach rubbers.
It also works best if the rubbers are removed so the wood and the vice make contact. Now you know the wood is pressed flat.

 

[JJ Ng]

Two things to consider:

1) I would not personally touch it. You can still play with it.

2) If you like FZD ALC that much, you might want to spend the money and get another one. If you get the same model next year or the year after, the composition or the wood might be slightly different and you will get a different feel. So just saying... If you really like your blade (like really like your blade), you should consider getting another one right now.

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

This happens. Don't worry about it. Take something like a pliers or, as BB said, a vice to press the wood back to the original thickness. Put some wood glue on the edge over the ding. And don't worry about it. Water Based glue for TT rubbers will not do anything for that ding.

The edge is not where you hit the ball; you hit the ball in the center of the blade face. Your blade will get many more dings if you are really playing and using it. Think of them as battle scars. The more of them your blade has, the more character it will have and the more you will feel it has gone into battle with you, and for you.

I personally play without edge tape. It is a personal choice. But the stuff that TensorBH is calling edge padding, if you hit the table nice and solidly with that stuff on the edge, it won't do anything anyway. It is your choice. But it will take a lot of those dings for you to do any actual damage to your blade to the point where you need a new one.

@Der_Echte: do you remember Abe Gold's blade. hahahahaha. And that kid could play even though it looked like he had chewed off half the bottom edge of his blade.

 

[Trevize84]

Fix this next time you change rubbers. Be very gentle while removing rubbers because you may damage that area even more bringing wood pieces away with the rubber. Once you have the blade surface exposed you can try little glue in the crack and compress the surfaces to make them even again. That should work well and because it's on the very edge it doesn't affect ball trajectory.

 

[Tyce]

I'd be more worried about the black rubber's attachment than the ding in the blade. Lovely suggestions about vises and pliers and all, but be very, very careful with that. You don't want to apply such an amount of force that you leave tool markings on the blade, that would leave you worse than before.

You can play with this fine, but if you do want to get it fixed:
There will probably be a chip coming off when you remove the red rubber. If it's only wood - correct it with wood glue. If it's also carbon, or if you have to glue the wood to the carbon, you're going to have to use something like epoxy or cyanoacrylate (superglue) and I'm not 100% sure even if superglue will properly adhere to the carbon.
As for clamping it to get it flat: great idea, but please do put your blade in between two spare flat pieces of wood, and put your clamps (vise, glue clamps, whatever you have) around that. This will save you from tool marks.

 

[deepanmania]

There are wood glues. Don't use the glues you use to attach rubbers.
It also works best if the rubbers are removed so the wood and the vice make contact. Now you know the wood is pressed flat.

Sure, I'll use some wood glue.
I don't have experience with vices maybe I'll just apply some weight on top of my ply.

 

[deepanmania]

Two things to consider:

1) I would not personally touch it. You can still play with it.

2) If you like FZD ALC that much, you might want to spend the money and get another one. If you get the same model next year or the year after, the composition or the wood might be slightly different and you will get a different feel. So just saying... If you really like your blade (like really like your blade), you should consider getting another one right now.

Maybe I'll just apply some glue and seal, coz I'm afraid sweat or water can sink in the crack.

I like my FZD ALC so much, that I've tried Viscaria and TB ALC also and the feel is completely different through everyone is saying that all are clones.

I'll think of getting a backup ply as you said but it's very expensive 😞

 

[deepanmania]

I'd be more worried about the black rubber's attachment than the ding in the blade. Lovely suggestions about vises and pliers and all, but be very, very careful with that. You don't want to apply such an amount of force that you leave tool markings on the blade, that would leave you worse than before.

You can play with this fine, but if you do want to get it fixed:
There will probably be a chip coming off when you remove the red rubber. If it's only wood - correct it with wood glue. If it's also carbon, or if you have to glue the wood to the carbon, you're going to have to use something like epoxy or cyanoacrylate (superglue) and I'm not 100% sure even if superglue will properly adhere to the carbon.
As for clamping it to get it flat: great idea, but please do put your blade in between two spare flat pieces of wood, and put your clamps (vise, glue clamps, whatever you have) around that. This will save you from tool marks.

Actually I've removed the rubbers at the edges to check whether it affected the surface of the ply or not. Fortunately there's not splinters coming out.
I'll fill the crack with some glue and put weights on it since I don't have experience with vises and pliers.