If you are a coach. What equipment would you recommend for beginners?

[UpSideDownCarl]

Having a kid who recently started TT, I can chime in here:
She (9) has small hands, but picks up a bat without issue. Still, the coach said it was better to start with a junior handle...
NOT for the thickness of the handle. Or even the weight of the blade. All those things weren't that important.
It was about the LENGTH of the handle, and it sticking out too much at the wrist. Sure, she could learn the absolute basics, but hampering wrist movement apparently is a real issue in developing proper movements.

...after hearing that, I can actually remember as a kid (12-13) the handle interfering with my wrist. Of course, I had no idea back then what the consequences could be for my development, but I clearly do remember having scuff marks

I remember watching a coach who used to, routinely, get parents to buy a kid blade for their kid as they started lessons. I remember seeing the kid blade and thinking, that specific blade is junk and it won't last. Maybe it was to sell product. Maybe it was really for the kid. So, perhaps I am biased because I thought it was salesmanship and the coach was taking advantage based on the idea that the kid and the parent would very soon be needing a regular blade which would of course also mean, new rubbers. There are some coaches like that. And others who are not.

But as long as what you got, Tyse, works for your kid, it is a good choice.

And this thread, it is kind of old. But still, a useful necromancing of the thread.

 

[Tyce]

I got her a used bat with a case for 30 euros, the trainer doesn't benefit from sales either way. By the time she outgrows the used rubber I'll put something newer on it.
There's no conspiracy here on my end!

Also lol, didn't notice the necro at all!

 

[Haraold]

Entry Level Tensor + Yinhe U-2

 

[IB66]

This sort of ties in with the Heming Hu thread.
Generally, I have given advice that varies! Depends on the skills of the player, how often they play, what they want out of playing table tennis, their financial situation etc.

Usually for a total beginner an all wood blade, All,All+,Off- something with good feel. Weight of blade for a young player can be factor as well as handle size. Rubbers such as H3 / H3Neo, Battle 2, Aurus sound, Joola Rhyzer Fire, Xiom Tau 2, Yasaka Rakza 7/7soft, BTY Rozena and Glazer / G09C. As long as the rubber has good spin capability, and isn’t too fast,
I tend to avoid advising top end rubbers, they are expensive and can be harder to control and for someone who isn’t even 100% sure they will continue to play TT, it’s just a silly idea to expect them or their parents to pay £300 on a bat, when the £300 would be better spent on the coaching sessions we run, by the way none of the coaches are paid coaches, we do the sessions for free, the students pay for table time, balls, any spare money is spent on new nets, catch nets etc

I have recommended blades with some carbon and ‘better’ or newer more top end rubbers but usually to players that have improved over a period of time or show a high level of ability, fast improvement and high consistency etc they will adapt quicker. However, top end stuff can be used but is it ‘necessary’? Later on perhaps!!

For better more experienced player’s they sort of know what they want, but get confused!! A reason there are so many EJ threads !! Many rubbers are ‘ball park‘ rubbers, they are very similar to each other.

Generally softer rubber on backhand, but if their BH is strong, stronger than FH, then a this could be reversed!!
I also have maybe 6 or 7 bats in my bag, that players can try, some carbon, like Viscaria, some defensive, some Allround etc, different rubbers to try.
We also donate old rubbers or bats, so players without a bat can use one until they decide that they want their own bat and play TT as a regular thing.

 

[Lazer]

A five ply all(+) wood (of the brand that the club if any sponsors). And a rubber from the same brand similar to Mark V.

Cheers
L-zr

 

[mocker88]

We usually recommend a blade like Sanwei - Accumulator S and a 2-pack of Sanwei - T88-III Training rubbers for most beginners. It's an allround wooden blade and rubbers with enough speed and spin to start developing technique.

When you find bottle necks in this composition, it's easy to just keep the blade and get some rubbers that fits each player in their individual development. And initially the cost is about $25.

 

[HankSquib]

The following are setups that I come across at my college campus.
DHS and Yinhe 5 ply with generic rubbers like PF4 and Yinhe Mercury+Mars.
A slightly more expensive was yinhe U-2 plus 2000E and mercury 2.
Palio 3 stars with carbon and palio cj8000.
But one of the blades that one of the faster learners used was a Donic Carbospeed with bluestorm and something else. It was above his level, but he still used it decently well. In general, it didn’t matter what the beginner used, without coaching they mostly just play the balk with little spin or loop the ball heavy but they develop decent blocking feel for the ball. I think a beginner adapts best with a coach that understands how to correct the issue as soon as its found and with a backup blade in case the student does need to change his technique. I remember seeing a japanese video of a coach teaching Chiquita with a rubberless blade to force the student to isolate the problematic swing.

 

[Tyce]

I think a beginner adapts best with a coach that understands how to correct the issue as soon as its found

Nail on the head here. A coach who a) understands the gear that the student is playing with and b) can see and correct issues in using said gear. Or c) advise when to change gear, and in which direction (harder, softer, faster, slower etc.)

I've read stories in the past of (Chinese) coaches telling developing kids to change to pips because it will work better for them. Having this information is absolute gold for developing your own game.

 

[mihalichtheone]

I recommend getting DHS Wind series blade + KTL/LKT or Kokutaku rubbers. Cheap, can do all spin variations, properly slow but still flexy for topspins, available on AliExpress.

If the budget is not a problem, then something allround from Xiom/BTY and Xiom Vega Intro.

In my practice working with adults it's much less about eqiupment and more about teaching how to move properly and relax...some people truly feel their body better and have less psychological/subconscious problems.

edit: here's a short video. This is just after 8 1-hour training sessions:

 

[Nale72]

I have asked another coach this question and in their club they recommended the blade Yasaka 2040 with Yasaka Orginal Extra XHG rubbers.
The second step for custom racket when they have gained more skills would still be the blade Yasaka 2040 but with Yasaka Mark V.
(I have myself played with Yasaka Orginal Extra XHG and Yasaka Mark V when I was younger. So I feel this is a pretty safe recommendation in the beginning)
The third step for a custom racket is still Yasaka 2040 blade with Yasaka Rakza 7 Soft rubber or was it Yasaka Rakza X Soft? hmm....
(In the moment I writing this and look where I buy my things I am not sure if it was Rakza 7 Soft och Rakza X Soft. I think it's Rakza 7 Soft that coach sai

I recently took up the sport after not plaing for 30+ years after playing a lot in my youth after school at a recreation center. After a lot of research, but not finding this forum, I actually got the Yasaka combination in step 1 above. I pretty fast found the combination a little slower than I wanted since I wanted something that I could "grow into". I then (once again before reading the above) got a Yasaka Classic blade with Rakza 7 Soft on both sides.

I really like the Rakza 7 Soft/classic combo and have told myself to play with this at least the year out until I can allow myself to test new equipment. Which is a bit hard since I'm an equipment nerd no matter the sport I commit to.

 

[Crillo]

I recently took up the sport after not plaing for 30+ years after playing a lot in my youth after school at a recreation center. After a lot of research, but not finding this forum, I actually got the Yasaka combination in step 1 above. I pretty fast found the combination a little slower than I wanted since I wanted something that I could "grow into". I then (once again before reading the above) got a Yasaka Classic blade with Rakza 7 Soft on both sides.

I really like the Rakza 7 Soft/classic combo and have told myself to play with this at least the year out until I can allow myself to test new equipment. Which is a bit hard since I'm an equipment nerd no matter the sport I commit to.

Great combo! The problem is in the last sentence. So many adult beginners change equipment to fast. Its very common to buy something in line what you got now. Then after a few months you need to change rubbers and change to something faster and maybe harder like Tenergy. After six months a Viscaria is too tempting. Now you start loosing more and more. During spring you will go back to all wood 5-ply with Rakza 7 or simmular. If you keep your blade and rubbers and maybe change to new Rakza 7 Soft later on you will develop ALOT faster.

 

[Nale72]

Great combo! The problem is in the last sentence. So many adult beginners change equipment to fast. Its very common to buy something in line what you got now. Then after a few months you need to change rubbers and change to something faster and maybe harder like Tenergy. After six months a Viscaria is too tempting. Now you start loosing more and more. During spring you will go back to all wood 5-ply with Rakza 7 or simmular. If you keep your blade and rubbers and maybe change to new Rakza 7 Soft later on you will develop ALOT faster.

Yes, so far I have way too much to work on when it comes to my technique and I'm pretty sure it would be detramental to that process to change rubbers now.

And I'm sure I won't upgrade to Tenergy or something that fast at least since I'm somewhat aware of my limitations ;o). But I might be tempted to upgrade my forehand rubber if I keep on developing as I've done so far. But then maybe to a 7 Soft Max on forehand and stick to my 2.0 on backhand, or at the most to a "normal" 7 (or similar) on forehand and at most 7 Soft Max on backhand. But that is in the future, at least into next year and we'll see where my mind is at by then.