I'm an intermediate beginner putting together a 0 racket

[JohnTTK]

Soy un principiante intermedio que usa una raqueta 0 y quiero subir de nivel con una buena raqueta, ya que la que uso actualmente es buena pero un poco antigua, pienso equiparla con una goma Loki Rxton 1 Special a mi derecha y detrás una Sanwei T88-III, y la pala es una DHS Power G7 PG7.

Me gustaria una opinion de gente mas experimentada por favor si es un buen equipo para mi

Edit: I have a budget of $80-90 for the entire build of the racket.

 

[Serg]

Get a better blade like Yasaka Falk W7 or Long 3 can be Stiga Clipper too combine it with hurricane 3.50 or 3.60 rubbers both size until you hit hard the Loki rubber is super slow combined with a wooden blade will be nightmare. At some point those rubbers will feel too slow then is time to upgrade it but for leveling up a good wooden fast blade and rubbers that don't fail are essential. Dignics rubbers work well with wooden blades level them up to play more competitive but the pushes, underspin strokes and specially services suck it will stop you from developing to a good player. Always choose 2.1 thickness for the rubbers or you will play like a weirdo and won't be able to develop well your blocking and drive techniques.

 

[Larshos]

Get a better blade like Yasaka Falk W7 or Long 3 can be Stiga Clipper too combine it with hurricane 3.50 or 3.60 rubbers both size until you hit hard the Loki rubber is super slow combined with a wooden blade will be nightmare. At some point those rubbers will feel too slow then is time to upgrade it but for leveling up a good wooden fast blade and rubbers that don't fail are essential. Dignics rubbers work well with wooden blades level them up to play more competitive but the pushes, underspin strokes and specially services suck it will stop you from developing to a good player. Always choose 2.1 thickness for the rubbers or you will play like a weirdo and won't be able to develop well your blocking and drive techniques.

The Long 3 is way too expensive to be considered a good recommendation for an intermediate beginner.

 

[Serg]

The Long 3 is way too expensive to be considered a good recommendation for an intermediate beginner.

There are different budgets in the suggestion some people will expend 1000$ on a blade because they want the best other are on a budget and cant go that high that is why i put the Yasaka W7 and Clipper. Is a matter of personality too, the cheepos will never spend more money than what they have in their imaginary budget.

 

[JohnTTK]

There are different budgets in the suggestion some people will expend 1000$ on a blade because they want the best other are on a budget and cant go that high that is why i put the Yasaka W7 and Clipper. Is a matter of personality too, the cheepos will never spend more money than what they have in their imaginary budget.

Thank you very much for the recommendation, my budget is limited, max $80-90 and I will buy on eBay, I took into account that DHS PG7 because I liked how it looked and looking at other reviews it is not bad to begin with, but if you say that it is not good I believe you, I will change it, I just don't know if I will find the one you recommend, the ones I see are: Lion blade de Boer, Sanwei T5000, XVT ARCHER 5, YINHE 537S, YINHE U2, SANWEI FEXTRA PRO. And the rubbers I planned to use were: SANWEI T88 UltraSpin, SANWEI T88-III, DHS Hurricane 3 neo, a blue rubber from kokutaku, a pink rubber from a brand called REACTOR, The DHS PF4-50. I'm looking for sticky rubbers because I want to experiment with shots with effect. If you can recommend me something from my list, I would really appreciate it❤️

Get a better blade like Yasaka Falk W7 or Long 3 can be Stiga Clipper too combine it with hurricane 3.50 or 3.60 rubbers both size until you hit hard the Loki rubber is super slow combined with a wooden blade will be nightmare. At some point those rubbers will feel too slow then is time to upgrade it but for leveling up a good wooden fast blade and rubbers that don't fail are essential. Dignics rubbers work well with wooden blades level them up to play more competitive but the pushes, underspin strokes and specially services suck it will stop you from developing to a good player. Always choose 2.1 thickness for the rubbers or you will play like a weirdo and won't be able to develop well your blocking and drive techniques.

Thank you very much for the recommendation, my budget is limited, max $80-90 and I will buy on eBay, I took into account that DHS PG7 because I liked how it looked and looking at other reviews it is not bad to begin with, but if you say that it is not good I believe you, I will change it, I just don't know if I will find the one you recommend, the ones I see are: Lion blade de Boer, Sanwei T5000, XVT ARCHER 5, YINHE 537S, YINHE U2, SANWEI FEXTRA PRO. And the rubbers I planned to use were: SANWEI T88 UltraSpin, SANWEI T88-III, DHS Hurricane 3 neo, a blue rubber from kokutaku, a pink rubber from a brand called REACTOR, The DHS PF4-50. I'm looking for sticky rubbers because I want to experiment with shots with effect. If you can recommend me something from my list, I would really appreciate it❤️

 

[Tyce]

You don't need sticky rubber to create effect.

In short, there's two types of topsheet when it comes to regular, smooth rubber: sticky and grippy.
Both types are used to change the rotation on the ball, one depending more on grip, the other on a bit of stick.
Honestly, either way works. Sticky rubber traditionally requires a bigger swing, grippy rubber is traditionally more bouncy.
As far as cheaper rubbers go, this holds true. Modern hybrid options are definitely more expensive.

 

[JohnTTK]

No necesitas goma pegajosa para crear efecto.

En resumen, cuando se trata de caucho normal y liso, hay dos tipos de capa superior: pegajosa y adherente.
Ambos tipos se utilizan para cambiar la rotación de la pelota, uno dependiendo más del agarre, el otro de un poco del palo.
Sinceramente, cualquiera de las dos opciones funciona. La goma pegajosa tradicionalmente requiere un mayor movimiento, mientras que la goma con agarre tradicionalmente rebota más.
En lo que respecta a las gomas más baratas, esto es cierto. Las opciones híbridas modernas son definitivamente más caras.

Entonces, ¿qué me recomiendas para mi primera construcción?

 

[Serg]

It depends on your style, but independently of your style you still need to loop, but the carbon blade do not let you loop properly neither the outer carbon blades the leaves ball too fast and is more like b/f drive than a loop. The blade need to be flexible and hold the ball longer, so it needs to be all wood to bend the bendy wood will allow more surface hold on the ball and the limba outer will help, the core needs to be ayous if the core is ayous choose 89/90 grams for the Ma Long 3 (Ayous Core is heavy), the best for you probably is the Yasaka Falk W7 it was recently designed so is not an old model for the new ball, but is not to bendy and it has less dwell time than the ML 3 which is too expensive anyways in your words, you can choose then the Stiga Clipper 89grams or Yasaka Falk W7 88/89 grms if you choose lighter the handle will be thinner very likely therefore weaker shots. Choose a 39 Degrees H 3.60 forehand black (Black is more grabby than red) and 3.50 Mid hard red in the backhand 38/39 degrees this rubbers are very soft anyways that degree is not equal to H3 39 feel way thinner. So my recoomendation:
- Yasaka Falk W7 All Wood 90 grams
- Hurricane 3.60 Forehand Black 39
- Backhand Hurricane 3.50 Red Mid Hard or 38 Degrees.

With this setup you can do anything well including pushes, good services and chops the only downside speed,

For a lighter blade and good handle Limba Kiri Core minimum 87 grams or the handle will be too thin. The kiri core does not have the same catapult and speed as the ayous that is denser and harder and more flexible.

 

[olive-nguyen]

I guess sanwei probably v5 fl or yinhe t-11, boosted double fish volant or rakza 7 backhand g-1 forehand like me.

 

[olive-nguyen]

Another good one and more expensive is yasaka ma lin extra offensive i guess. Can try boosted h3 orange sponge forehand about 39 degrees.

 

[NetProphet]

There are different budgets in the suggestion some people will expend 1000$ on a blade because they want the best other are on a budget and cant go that high that is why i put the Yasaka W7 and Clipper. Is a matter of personality too, the cheepos will never spend more money than what they have in their imaginary budget.

And what's wrong with the DHS G7?
It's basically a Clipper for $35

 

[JohnTTK]

Depende de tu estilo, pero independientemente de tu estilo, todavía necesitas hacer loop, pero la pala de carbono no te deja hacer loop correctamente ni tampoco las palas de carbono exteriores, las hojas de bola salen demasiado rápido y es más como un drive b/f que un loop. La pala debe ser flexible y sujetar la bola por más tiempo, por lo que debe ser toda de madera para doblarse, la madera flexible permitirá una mayor superficie de agarre en la bola y el limba exterior ayudará, el núcleo debe ser ayous si el núcleo es ayous elige 89/90 gramos para el Ma Long 3 (el núcleo de Ayous es pesado), el mejor para ti probablemente sea el Yasaka Falk W7, fue diseñado recientemente, por lo que no es un modelo antiguo para la nueva bola, pero no es demasiado flexible y tiene menos tiempo de permanencia que el ML 3, que de todos modos es demasiado caro en tus palabras, puedes elegir entonces el Stiga Clipper 89 gramos o el Yasaka Falk W7 88/89 gramos si eliges uno más ligero, el mango será muy probablemente más fino, por lo tanto, tiros más débiles. Elige una goma negra H 39 Degrees 3.60 para el golpe de derecha (la negra tiene más agarre que la roja) y una goma roja Mid Hard 3.50 para el revés. Estas gomas son muy blandas, pero ese grado no es igual a H3. La 39 parece mucho más delgada. Mi recomendación es:
- Yasaka Falk W7 All Wood 90 gramos
- Huracán 3.60 Forehand Negro 39
- Revés Huracán 3.50 Rojo Medio Duro o 38 Grados.

Para una hoja más ligera y un buen mango, el núcleo Kiri de Limba es de 87 gramos como mínimo, de lo contrario el mango será demasiado fino. El núcleo Kiri no tiene la misma catapulta y velocidad que el Ayous, que es más denso, más duro y más flexible.

Muchas gracias, lo tendré en cuenta, probaré esa compilación

 

[Serg]

And what's wrong with the DHS G7?
It's basically a Clipper for $35

There is a reason it cost 35 bucks you can figure it out.

 

[JohnTTK]

Muchas gracias, lo tendré en cuenta, probaré esa compilación

Bro, that build exceeds my budget, especially the blade that costs $63, Any other recommendation?

 

[NetProphet]

There is a reason it cost 35 bucks you can figure it out.

Really?
So this is fact according to Serg then, beginners should spend $250 on Long 3 instead of buying the appropriate and more beginner level blade from DHS.
You really think that's good advice?

If you say Flack, G7 or Clipper you're splitting hairs because they're basically the same in a beginners hands - all (relatively firm) 7 ply all-wood blades.

The G7 is fine from those 3, as is the Falck at twice the price but the OP has already stated he is on a budget.
Instead of respecting that and actually trying to help you se m intent on ramming your opinion, coming back to talk about the Long 3 again before rambling to the W7 - as if spending more on the same thing is a good idea 🤦

 

[JohnTTK]

¿En realidad?
Entonces, según Serg, este es un hecho: los principiantes deberían gastar $250 en Long 3 en lugar de comprar la pala DHS más apropiada y de nivel más principiante.
¿De verdad crees que es un buen consejo?

Si dices Flack, G7 o Clipper, estás hilando fino porque son básicamente lo mismo en manos de un principiante: todas son hojas de madera de 7 capas (relativamente firmes).

De esos tres, el G7 está bien, al igual que el Falck al doble de precio, pero el OP ya ha dicho que tiene un presupuesto limitado.
En lugar de respetar eso y realmente intentar ayudarte, parece que tengo la intención de imponer tu opinión, volviendo a hablar sobre el Long 3 antes de divagar sobre el W7, como si gastar más en lo mismo fuera una buena idea 🤦

¿Y tu que me recomiendas hermano, te parece buena idea el G7? Maybe with 2 rubbers DHS PF4-50

 

[Serg]

Bro, that build exceeds my budget, especially the blade that costs $63, Any other recomm

Bro, that build exceeds my budget, especially the blade that costs $63, Any other recommendation?

This wood blades are competitive so this are the only ones that can still work well competitively. If i recommend you another all wood wont be as good as this ones, and dont recommend you Carbon neither

Really?
So this is fact according to Serg then, beginners should spend $250 on Long 3 instead of buying the appropriate and more beginner level blade from DHS.
You really think that's good advice?

If you say Flack, G7 or Clipper you're splitting hairs because they're basically the same in a beginners hands - all (relatively firm) 7 ply all-wood blades.

The G7 is fine from those 3, as is the Falck at twice the price but the OP has already stated he is on a budget.
Instead of respecting that and actually trying to help you se m intent on ramming your opinion, coming back to talk about the Long 3 again before rambling to the W7 - as if spending more on the same thing is a good idea 🤦

Well put your recommendation then that you claim to know better, i just give him what i know it plays well because i used it including the PG7. He can probably find 5$ Limba Ayous contruction in Aliexpress and won't be too bad but you cannot win against a Viscaria, Long 5, Ma Lin Extra Offensive blade or any popular carbon blade with that stuff.

 

[JohnTTK]

Bueno, entonces, haz tu recomendación, dices que sabes más. Yo solo le doy lo que sé, funciona bien porque lo usé, incluso el PG7. Probablemente pueda encontrar una construcción Limba Ayous de 5 $ en Aliexpress y no será tan mala, pero no puedes ganar contra una Viscaria, Long 5, Ma Lin Extra Offensive o cualquier otra madera de carbono popular con ese material.

No peleéis, chicos. Sólo quiero una buena recomendación que se ajuste a mi presupuesto de 80-90 dólares, y tal vez una explicación de cómo funcionan las cosas y la relación entre la cuchilla y la goma, ya que tengo algunas ideas equivocadas.

 

[NetProphet]

IWell put your recommendation then that you claim to know better, i just give him what i know it plays well because i used it including the PG7. He can probably find 5$ Limba Ayous contruction in Aliexpress and won't be too bad but you cannot win against a Viscaria, Long 5, Ma Lin Extra Offensive blade or any popular carbon blade with that stuff.

Well I'm not claiming to know better but after wondering why you didn't like the G7 for his budget and getting not much of an answer I was then wondering, if you're gonna respond, why youre not gearing your response towards what he's actually looking for and can afford?

Anyway, no matter, I didn't think your options were terrible rackets, I just didn't see they were helpful in this case.... 🤷

 

[greenbeanmachine]

Bro, that build exceeds my budget, especially the blade that costs $63, Any other recommendation?

Power G7 is a great racket, though the handle is on the small side. If you have bigger hands, you should get a Stiga racket (Clipper is a good choice, and so is Offensive Classic). Ma Lin Extra Offensive is another great option which is pretty cheap.

For rubbers, Hurricane 3 Neo is the gold standard especially if you care about price. Ma Lin Extra Offensive + Hurricane 3 Neo on both sides is my personal recommendation.