Koto vs Limba surface for inner fibre blade?

[TensorBackhand]

Has anybody tested the difference between Koto vs Limba surfaces for inner fibre blades? If so, what are your findings?

I recently bought a Loki Arthur Pro (Koto-ayous-zlc-ayous) to compare with my favorite blade, the Stuor Harimoto clone (Limba-ayous-zlc-ayous). I was curious how different the overall feeling and performance would be just with the change of the surface. Unfortunately for me, it's not a perfect comparison because the Loki blade's fibre is slightly closer to the surface than the Stuor. But I'll still give you my findings.

The biggest difference is that I find the Stuor blade "catches" or "grabs" the ball better than the Loki. The Stuor feels more comfortable and safe, easily grabbing the ball before launching it with spin and power. Stuor produces arc more naturally. With the Loki, sometimes it felt like I needed to open the racket face more or swing more upwards. Is this difference more from the surface wood? or more from the carbon layer being closer to the surface?

In speed, for 90% of shots I didn't really feel much difference in speed. In theory, the Koto blade should be faster, right? I didn't necessarily feel there was much difference. Is it 2% faster? Maybe, really hard for me to say. However, when I stand really far back and hit loops, I do find there is a bit more rebound with the Koto blade. (But is it the blade that is faster? or is it because I'm opening the blade and hitting the ball flatter?)

I find the Koto blade, essentially is still a inner fibre blade. So it does have some dwell time, more than the Sanwe 75 outer alc for example. But it feels firmer.

Next I want to test the Sanwei inner 75 vs the DHS Fang bo.

 

[vivalavida320315]

i find the 'catching' feeling on limba annoying, prefer koto's crispier feeling

 

[TensorBackhand]

Yeah I think maybe the Stuor is faster on looping shots, because it grabs and launches the ball better.

The Loki koto blade is faster on flat shots because the surface is a bit harder.

 

[TareqPhoto]

Oh no, another endless comparisons, should i buy 4 blades and each has pros and cons so which one to choose? Maybe next time i will hold 4 rackets all in my two hands [two in each] so i switch according to the shots coming to me or how i want to hit and from where.

 

[Lowday20298]

I have stuor long v and real viscaria. I prefer the viscaria because it pairs with any and every rubber I've thrown on it. It is a bit less safe and can be quite scary looking how fast the shots go, but I still prefer it. It has a clear and glassy feeling while the long v has mushy and almost dampened feeling that takes away confidence when playing.

That's the reason I stick with hard outer ply and flexible core/mid plies. Hence the intensity. The Clipper for example is safer and has good feeling, but can be a bit mushy at times, and doesn't pair well with very soft rubbers, the z3 pairs very well with the intensity, but feels dampened when on the clipper.

 

[TensorBackhand]

How come there are not many pro players that use Koto-inner fibre blade? It would seem to be a reasonable middle-ground between Viscaria and Long 5.

 

[Creek]

How come there are not many pro players that use Koto-inner fibre blade? It would seem to be a reasonable middle-ground between Viscaria and Long 5.

good question. In theory you’re totally right. Blades like h301 are very good for amateur players like us.
The only reason I could imagine is, that inner blades usually already are quite head heavy due to the ayous core compared to kiri on outer blades. Koto top ply would increase that head heaviness even more, which can get bad in todays extremely fast top level gameplay.

 

[_ak]

Next I want to test the Sanwei inner 75 vs the DHS Fang bo.

So have you tested them? Just curious about your impressions.

that inner blades usually already are quite head heavy due to the ayous core compared to kiri on outer blades. Koto top ply would increase that head heaviness even more, which can get bad in todays extremely fast top level gameplay.

Possibly, didn't try many of them to compare.
However My 89g Sanwei 75 Inner feels less head heavy than Xiom Offensive S with equal weight.
Xiom has a bigger head whereas Sanwei has a bulkier handle though.

 

[Ultravisitor]

I tried the sanwei 75 inner but I found the throw lower, than the Fang Bo 2bx I play now, with the same Rubbers. Before I that I tried the Sanwei CC ld carbon, which played superb for an 9$ blade, but it felt to soft for how stiff it is.
Koto feels harder and more direct.
I guess if backhand is your main weapon, low dwell just fits better, hence outer carbon Koto construction. Or it's just preference...

 

[SlowPower]

You cant even come close to a conclusion without knowing the density of the used veneers and all other factors (core, middle layers, type and amount of glue).
I have limba sheets of 4 batches from 11g to 17g and koto sheets with 15/16g.
The 17g limba is easily harder and less flexy than the koto at the same thickness.

At least you might say that the chance of getting a softer feel by ordering a limba blade is higher than when ordering a koto blade. Thats all.

 

[turbozed]

You cant even come close to a conclusion without knowing the density of the used veneers and all other factors (core, middle layers, type and amount of glue).
I have limba sheets of 4 batches from 11g to 17g and koto sheets with 15/16g.
The 17g limba is easily harder and less flexy than the koto at the same thickness.

At least you might say that the chance of getting a softer feel by ordering a limba blade is higher than when ordering a koto blade. Thats all.

I have two koto outer Sanwei 75 Inner blades and both feel noticeably softer than my limba outer Stuor Harimoto ZLC.

We are all aware of how the same thickness of the same type of wood can result in blades that stray from the average weight by even 10 grams. I was the unlucky owner of a 78g Nittaku Acoustic for example. Would only make sense that wood variation can also cause large differences in hardness too.

I'm starting to think that how we expect a blade to play is a way bigger crap shoot than we think. And even big name expensive brands are not immune to this.

 

[SlowPower]

Indeed!
If you want to have a good replacement or backup for your blade you need patience or better call a blademaker like sdc 😉

 

[bobpuls]

I prefer limba for forehand and koto or something else(there are lighter woods) for backhand..... Harder rubber on forehand for long strokes, which needs more time to direct them when looping, but backhand i have more compact strokes, so i need harder wood for softer sponges so i can have also the time to get them direction and rotation. Hopefully this helps.

 

[_ak]

1 side limba and another koto please

 

[TareqPhoto]

What is the type of wood does in playing style? For example what is Limba for or Koto or Ayos or Hinoki or Ebony.