re-visiting Neo Hurricane 3, provincial 37 and 38 degree

[Haito]

I do think that on FH, H3 is meant to be harder, minimum 38-39, otherwise it doesn't reach its optimal sponge/topsheet combination and it therefore lacks support.

A blade like the Viscaria definitely provides a boost/support to my otherwise unboosted 38-40 commercial H3 Neo.

Do you boost?

I agree 40 boosted or 39 unboosted is great.

 

[virtuososiu]

I do think that on FH, H3 is meant to be harder, minimum 38-39, otherwise it doesn't reach its optimal sponge/topsheet combination and it therefore lacks support.

A blade like the Viscaria definitely provides a boost/support to my otherwise unboosted 38-40 commercial H3 Neo.

Do you boost?

No, I dont want to get into boosting. Not that I mind the work, but its more the consistency. I was playing around with boosting few years back then, and sometimes it got too soft, other times it didnt feel right.

I want to see if I can just use it as is on my Carbonado 45

 

[latej]

I want to see if I can just use it as is on my Carbonado 45

Carbonado 45 looks like a really interesting blade, like a tiny bit faster HL5. Can you by chance compare it to HL5, TB ALC/Viscaria, other Carbonado, or some other blade?

 

[MK73]

I do think that on FH, H3 is meant to be harder, minimum 38-39, otherwise it doesn't reach its optimal sponge/topsheet combination and it therefore lacks support.

A blade like the Viscaria definitely provides a boost/support to my otherwise unboosted 38-40 commercial H3 Neo.

Do you boost?

What do you play on backhand on the Viscaria? I've been testing around quite a lot with bh esn/tensor rubbers in combination with H3 on fh.

 

[IB66]

No, I dont want to get into boosting. Not that I mind the work, but its more the consistency. I was playing around with boosting few years back then, and sometimes it got too soft, other times it didnt feel right.

I want to see if I can just use it as is on my Carbonado 45

If you don’t want to boost you could also give H8 a try, hard or mid-hard sponges available, a little faster than H3N provincial, tack wears off after a while, but this just seems to make it better!! Spin is also good. Excels when looping on FH.
H8 was the first DHS rubber I tried, liked it a lot, then gave H3N provincial 40 deg, 2.15 orange sponge a go, unboosted, liked this as well, they are pretty similar to each other. A boosted H3N would be even closer speed wise.
On the price side of things, H8 is cheaper than the H3N provincial rubbers, I also found that the 1st 2 sheets of the H3N provincial rubbers I bought were fairly fragile, slightest knock and pimples chipped off, maybe a bad batch, haven’t noticed this with the 37 deg sheets I have.
So for less bucks you get a rubber pretty much the same as H3N provincial!!!
You still have to work hard with H8 though!!!

 

[IB66]

No, I dont want to get into boosting. Not that I mind the work, but its more the consistency. I was playing around with boosting few years back then, and sometimes it got too soft, other times it didnt feel right.

I want to see if I can just use it as is on my Carbonado 45

Another thing worth trying is using multiple layers of glue!! Enough so you can see the glue layer!! For example 2 or 3 on the blade, 2/3/4 on the sponge, another reason for the 2.15mm sponge, if you use a soft glue like DHS No15 it stays soft and elastic, sort of adds another rubber layer under the sponge!!

 

[Haito]

Another thing worth trying is using multiple layers of glue!! Enough so you can see the glue layer!! For example 2 or 3 on the blade, 2/3/4 on the sponge, another reason for the 2.15mm sponge, if you use a soft glue like DHS No15 it stays soft and elastic, sort of adds another rubber layer under the sponge!!

That is a whole another rabbit hole. Layers are not painted equally. I use a cheapo durometer from Aliexpress and use as thin booster and glue layers as possible. My method is two thin glue layers followed by enough booster layers to drop hardness from 40 to just below 39. Since I used glue to slow down booster soaking it does affect the measurement. I don't go after specific hardness. I just found out that this number is good for the rubbers, booster, and glue combination I use. It usually ends up being GG BB GG, sometimes it is GG BBB GG. It depends on how thin I manage to apply the booster.

PS: I don't use boosted rubber on tournaments. Vega China is very good out of the box. Very very very very close to boosted rubbers I use.

 

[IB66]

That is a whole another rabbit hole. Layers are not painted equally. I use a cheapo durometer from Aliexpress and use as thin booster and glue layers as possible. My method is two thin glue layers followed by enough booster layers to drop hardness from 40 to just below 39. Since I used glue to slow down booster soaking it does affect the measurement. I don't go after specific hardness. I just found out that this number is good for the rubbers, booster, and glue combination I use. It usually ends up being GG BB GG, sometimes it is GG BBB GG. It depends on how thin I manage to apply the booster.

PS: I don't use boosted rubber on tournaments. Vega China is very good out of the box. Very very very very close to boosted rubbers I use.

Yeah, you gotta be careful !!
When I do boost, I use similar method to yourself, but usually 1 layer glue to protect sponge so G BB GG, or G BBB GG, then 2 GG on blade.
Durometer is a good idea for checking combined top sheet and sponge thickness so you have an idea of how much you have to play with.

 

[Haito]

Yeah, you gotta be careful !!
When I do boost, I use similar method to yourself, but usually 1 layer glue to protect sponge so G BB GG, or G BBB GG, then 2 GG on blade.
Durometer is a good idea for checking combined top sheet and sponge thickness so you have an idea of how much you have to play with.

I use xiom tensor ibond. Thr second glue layer is usually whatever was left over on the sponge.

Durometer measures hardness not thickness. I have a shore a durometer. I doubt it is an accurate one though.

 

[IB66]

I use xiom tensor ibond. Thr second glue layer is usually whatever was left over on the sponge.

Durometer measures hardness not thickness. I have a shore a durometer. I doubt it is an accurate one though.

Yep my mistake, micrometer for measuring thickness!!

 

[yoass]

I would think a micrometer is just 1/10e6th of a meter, whereas an instrument to gage thickness is, as far as I know, a caliper.

 

[Haito]

I would think a micrometer is just 1/10e6th of a meter, whereas an instrument to gage thickness is, as far as I know, a caliper.

He was problably refering to this:

This tool is called micrometer in Poland sometimes. Full name in direct translation is micrometric screw. This tool is more precise than calipers.

Edit: i do not know proper english translation.

 

[thomas.pong]

No, I dont want to get into boosting. Not that I mind the work, but its more the consistency. I was playing around with boosting few years back then, and sometimes it got too soft, other times it didnt feel right.

I want to see if I can just use it as is on my Carbonado 45

Yea, I'm not interested in boosting yet either. I think H3 is already very good as is for my current needs, and a lot of people's needs.

Hope it works for you on your Carbonado.

For me, I definitely need the little extra kick of the Viscaria to back it up which is why I started using that blade again that I wouldn't necessarily use with a tensor or spring sponge on the FH otherwise.

 

[thomas.pong]

What do you play on backhand on the Viscaria? I've been testing around quite a lot with bh esn/tensor rubbers in combination with H3 on fh.

I'm currently using Tenergy 05 FX in 1.9mm on my BH which seems to work just fine. Since I mostly picked up my Viscaria again to test how H3 would feel on it, and it immediately felt like a great pairing, I've yet to test a bunch of rubbers on it for my BH. I tried T05 on it and that just felt too hard, I now want to try T80 on it, as well as Fastarc G-1 and C-1. Whichever one of these 3 rubbers + T05 FX allows me to hit hardest with plenty of spin while still lending on the table consistently will stay on my BH.

 

[thomas.pong]

Carbonado 45 looks like a really interesting blade, like a tiny bit faster HL5. Can you by chance compare it to HL5, TB ALC/Viscaria, other Carbonado, or some other blade?

I think Carbonado 45 is actually slower than HL5.

And if I remember right, Carbonado 145 is close to Viscaria/TB ALC. And 245 is faster and stiffer (more carbon per m2).

 

[yogi_bear]

H3 and other Chinese rubbers are just not that great with not boosted. If you do not want to boost, get Xiom Tau ii.

 

[virtuososiu]

I am now trying H3 Provincial 39, and H3 Neo Provincial 37 on Samsonov Force Pro Black. The speed is fairly similar to Carbonado 45, but there is so much more dwell and bite.

Its head heavy, didnt think I'd like it. but it actually works pretty well and helps me to put my power into the swing. Gonna stick with this for a few weeks and see what happens.

H3 (none Neo, unboosted) is indeed a lot of work. Feeling it in my knees after training session. At the same time, so much time, control, and spin. pretty good stuff.

 

[virtuososiu]

Carbonado 45 looks like a really interesting blade, like a tiny bit faster HL5. Can you by chance compare it to HL5, TB ALC/Viscaria, other Carbonado, or some other blade?

Carbonado 45 is def slower than timo boll ALC. Dont forget they have different top ply.
Personally I still prefer Limba over Koto. Maybe my level is not there yet.

 

[yogi_bear]

Carbonado 45 is def slower than timo boll ALC. Dont forget they have different top ply.
Personally I still prefer Limba over Koto. Maybe my level is not there yet.

The Carbonado 45 and 90 are quite popular in China. It is slower than TB ALC but pairs really well with H3.

 

[virtuososiu]

H3 and other Chinese rubbers are just not that great with not boosted. If you do not want to boost, get Xiom Tau ii.

how does Tau compare to Neo H3 39? also how is durability? many thanks in advance
actualkly, how does it compare to vega china