Sanwei F3 Pro splintering

[iKonik]

So i have been playing with my cheap sanwei all wood blade for a while now, and i believe i play at a descent level, thats why i am thinking of upgrading to a descent carbon blade. F3 Pro seems like a descent option for my budget (~$30), but i have came across a lot of reviews that mention splintering issues with sanwei blades. Since i never lacquered my TR-3 i dont want to lacquer my F3 pro, mainly because i dont know how to. So i just wanted to know if F3 specifically splinters or not.
i would be using tacky rubbers like boosted h3 neo.
the glue i am planning to use is:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...58758!ct!PK!6134020551!!1!0#nav-specification

 

[turbozed]

Just learn how to seal your blades. Some wipe on polyurethane. Takes a few minutes to do and leave it to dry for a day. No splinters after that.

Most blades made of softer woods and that's not sealed has the potential for splintering whether it's a Sanwei F3 or a DHS W968. The model doesn't make a difference, just whether you were unlucky enough to get wood that's more likely to splinter.

 

[iKonik]

Just learn how to seal your blades. Some wipe on polyurethane. Takes a few minutes to do and leave it to dry for a day. No splinters after that.

Most blades made of softer woods and that's not sealed has the potential for splintering whether it's a Sanwei F3 or a DHS W968. The model doesn't make a difference, just whether you were unlucky enough to get wood that's more likely to splinter.

thanks for the answer, i suppose i would have to seal the blade now. How often do you think i should seal the blade assuming i play for about 10 hours a week. I have never replaced the rubbers on my current racket but i believe with this much play time i would have to at least change the rubbers every 4 months or so i have been told.

 

[piligrim]

All chinese blades splintering

 

[boretennis]

thanks for the answer, i suppose i would have to seal the blade now. How often do you think i should seal the blade assuming i play for about 10 hours a week. I have never replaced the rubbers on my current racket but i believe with this much play time i would have to at least change the rubbers every 4 months or so i have been told.

you only have to seal it once, at least i never sealed a blade more often and i switched rubbers a lot for some time. if you buy the blade from a proper shop (like t11 or similar) they will seal it for you for a euro or two.

 

[iKonik]

you only have to seal it once, at least i never sealed a blade more often and i switched rubbers a lot for some time. if you buy the blade from a proper shop (like t11 or similar) they will seal it for you for a euro or two.

Well, I'll be buying from aliexpress so i'd have to do it myself.

 

[boretennis]

Well, I'll be buying from aliexpress so i'd have to do it myself.

sealing a blade is easy. maybe have a look at this thread:

https://www.tabletennisdaily.com/forum/topics/all-about-blade-sealing.35899/

 

[iKonik]

sealing a blade is easy. maybe have a look at this thread:

https://www.tabletennisdaily.com/forum/topics/all-about-blade-sealing.35899/

thanks mate, seems really helpful

 

[banbekas]

You can put a layer of speed glue on the face of the blade before putting a layer of wbg. It works like a sealer.

 

[iKonik]

You can put a layer of speed glue on the face of the blade before putting a layer of wbg. It works like a sealer.

i think i would like to stick with more traditional ways for now.
i came across this product that is a water-based polyurethane and its supposed to work as a lacquer so i just wanted to know if it would be suitable for me.
i have attached an image with its specification.

 

[TensorBackhand]

So i have been playing with my cheap sanwei all wood blade for a while now, and i believe i play at a descent level, thats why i am thinking of upgrading to a descent carbon blade. F3 Pro seems like a descent option for my budget (~$30), but i have came across a lot of reviews that mention splintering issues with sanwei blades. Since i never lacquered my TR-3 i dont want to lacquer my F3 pro, mainly because i dont know how to. So i just wanted to know if F3 specifically splinters or not.
i would be using tacky rubbers like boosted h3 neo.
the glue i am planning to use is:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007540143331.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.202b38dan3BguK&mp=1&pdp_npi=5@dis!PKR!PKR 3381.13!PKR 1690.56!!!!!@21010d9017444630542213109eda4f!12000041213658758!ct!PK!6134020551!!1!0#nav-specification

I had F3 pro, after gluing and changing rubbers quite a lot, maybe 10 times or so, it did start having some light splintering.

Not enough to destroy the blade or change how it plays
, but if you are particular about splinters you may not like it

 

[iKonik]

I had F3 pro, after gluing and changing rubbers quite a lot, maybe 10 times or so, it did start having some light splintering.

Not enough to destroy the blade or change how it plays
, but if you are particular about splinters you may not like it

The reason i started this thread was mainly because i don't have any prior experience of lacquering blades, so i was unsure if i should lacquer the f3 pro as a lot of people told me that since i plan to use tacky rubbers i should lacquer the blade. I would prefer not lacquering the blade at all rather than doing it in a wrong way. Your reply and past experience gives me reassurance that lacquering in fact is not really necessary.
Since you have played with the blade in the past, i would also appreciate some review of it especially in terms of stiffness as a lot of people say it is quite flexy where as some describe as if it is a brick.

 

[Tyce]

I just use a spray can with a very light dash of acrylic matte lacquer. Super cheap and I know first hand this is how one well reputed shop does it.

 

[TensorBackhand]

The reason i started this thread was mainly because i don't have any prior experience of lacquering blades, so i was unsure if i should lacquer the f3 pro as a lot of people told me that since i plan to use tacky rubbers i should lacquer the blade. I would prefer not lacquering the blade at all rather than doing it in a wrong way. Your reply and past experience gives me reassurance that lacquering in fact is not really necessary.
Since you have played with the blade in the past, i would also appreciate some review of it especially in terms of stiffness as a lot of people say it is quite flexy where as some describe as if it is a brick.

It's a very good blade. Quite flexy, quite soft, but with enough speed.

On a scale, it falls between an all-wood blade and HL5.

 

[iKonik]

It's a very good blade. Quite flexy, quite soft, but with enough speed.

On a scale, it falls between an all-wood blade and HL5.

thanks, seems like its a good choice for me then since i am transitioning from all wood to f3 pro just for that more speed without losing a lot of flex.

 

[Conehead]

as a lot of people told me that since i plan to use tacky rubbers i should lacquer the blade.

Sealing a blade by no means is related to what kind of rubber you play.

 

[iKonik]

Sealing a blade by no means is related to what kind of rubber you play.

I think i wrote that wrong, what i wanted to say was that i intended to use tacky rubbers like h3, and i will probably boost them too. I was under the impression that boosting might cause the blade to splinter faster but even that makes less sense now that i have researched a bit more.

 

[Conehead]

I was under the impression that boosting might cause the blade to splinter faster but even that makes less sense now that i have researched a bit more.

Correct, doesn't make sense.

 

[Tyce]

I think i wrote that wrong, what i wanted to say was that i intended to use tacky rubbers like h3, and i will probably boost them too. I was under the impression that boosting might cause the blade to splinter faster but even that makes less sense now that i have researched a bit more.

It only makes sense in the way that with boosting, you'll be reglueing more often. Taking the rubber off easier will be better for rubber and blade.