What blade would you recommend for someone stepping down from carbon?

[Lazer]

why do you think so? Yesterday I've tried using an joola classic all and the speed and feeling was pretty good. It may not be enough for the high level, but I'm still improving my rate and game, so I don't know if what I'm missing is speed...

Normally a player returns to allwood to reduce speed. If this is the case it is not necessary. There are slow composite blades too.

Cheers
L-zr

 

[MatterOfTime]

Normally a player returns to allwood to reduce speed. If this is the case it is not necessary. There are slow composite blades too.

Cheers
L-zr

Makes sense. I have yet to try a composite blade that give me the feeling of safety that I get with an all wood blade.

That said, I think that's either related to my technique not being good enough or the sample size I've tried being kinda small, either way I won't have enough money to sample many blades that since I've already tried most of the ones I can find here in my city, so maybe it's a better idea to stick with an all wood blade for the time being.

 

[S-Pin]

No need to step down, there is Donic Appelgren WC 89 and Nittaku S-CZ almost identical and really good feeling. Both slow outers, great blades…

Cheers
L-zr

S-CZ is not much slower than Hayata if at all, I have both. And Hayata has more bite, it's spinner and imho a better blade.

I'd just keep the Hayata and change K3 to a slower hybrid. Hayata H2 is not a very fast blade. Another alternative is a Violin which will be slower. Also a light Acoustic is somewhat similar to Hayata, but slower, not by much though.

 

[S-Pin]

Another option, if you want to slow down - keep Hayata H2 and try UNBOOSTED H3 Neo 39, just cheap commercial one. It will be slow and spinny as hell.
Hayata H2 + H3 Neo is a great match. Later on you can start boosting it and increasing speed gradually.

 

[Lazer]

S-CZ is not much slower than Hayata if at all, I have both. And Hayata has more bite, it's spinner and imho a better blade.

I'd just keep the Hayata and change K3 to a slower hybrid. Hayata H2 is not a very fast blade. Another alternative is a Violin which will be slower. Also a light Acoustic is somewhat similar to Hayata, but slower, not by much though.

“A bit more bite” I means less dwell and faster…. I dont think it can be spinnier with that characteristics…

Cheers
L-zr

 

[S-Pin]

“A bit more bite” I means less dwell and faster…. I dont think it can be spinnier with that characteristics…

Cheers
L-zr

I didn't mean that at all. I mean it doesn't grab the ball as well as a H2, hence less spin.

 

[Lazer]

I didn't mean that at all. I mean it doesn't grab the ball as well as a H2, hence less spin.

A blade can’t grab the ball. Only the rubber can….

Cheers
L-zr

 

[S-Pin]

A blade can’t grab the ball. Only the rubber can….

Cheers
L-zr

Take two blades with similar speed, dwell and power. Let's say Joola Rossi Emotion and Nittaku S-CZ. Use the same rubber. Let's say Rakza Z which grabs the ball well and according to you will make the wood irrelevant. If you have been playing long enough, you will immediately feel that JRE (or pretty much any hinoki/carbon blade) grabs/bites the ball much better and produce more spin with the same shots. it's because JRE hinoki layer has a spring. Spruce has not. Hinoki grabs the ball and then shoots it. Spruce does not, it's just soft and feels dull in comparison. It does not bite and does not spin the ball as well.

 

[Lazer]

Take two blades with similar speed, dwell and power. Let's say Joola Rossi Emotion and Nittaku S-CZ. Use the same rubber. Let's say Rakza Z which grabs the ball well and according to you will make the wood irrelevant. If you have been playing long enough, you will immediately feel that JRE (or pretty much any hinoki/carbon blade) grabs/bites the ball much better and produce more spin with the same shots. it's because JRE hinoki layer has a spring. Spruce has not. Hinoki grabs the ball and then shoots it. Spruce does not, it's just soft and feels dull in comparison. It does not bite and does not spin the ball as well.

Spruce is softer so it has longer dwell/grab time and it creates better spin due to this. If you only have hinoki in the top layer it will not contribute much to the springiness. For wood layer under so much rubber it’s just physically impossible. What you feel is the whole package, Entire blade + rubber. It may well be an illusion… My S-CZ has a lot “grabbier” feel than any of my Hinoki blades. But the hinoki blades may be springier, that’s not what I am looking fort right mow.

Cheers
L-zr

 

[S-Pin]

Spruce is softer so it has longer dwell/grab time and it creates better spin due to this. If you only have hinoki in the top layer it will not contribute much to the springiness. For wood layer under so much rubber it’s just physically impossible. What you feel is the whole package, Entire blade + rubber. It may well be an illusion… My S-CZ has a lot “grabbier” feel than any of my Hinoki blades. But the hinoki blades may be springier, that’s not what I am looking fort right mow.

Cheers
L-zr

I'm not going to argue here, so let's agree to disagree.