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Ding! ding! ding! -- we have a winner folks... (...well kind of... I think 😂).Maybe a blade maker can chime in, but I think the interface between the fiber layer and wood layers is the important part. As the epoxied fiber is significantly more rigid than wood, a hard impact will cause micro cracks in this interface since the wood bends much more.
To a certain level, all wood is less susceptible to this since the layers are much closer to each other in properties.
As to why this happens more on inner fiber blades... I don't know. Maybe it has something to do with the wood grain direction, having the medial layer on top of the fiber pulls on it in the lateral direction? Or the impact deforms the blades top layers more in both longitudinal and lateral directions, where an impact on the outer layer alone would generate mostly longitudinal deformation?
So basically koto and carbon pairs better than limba and carbon because the hardnesses are more similar to each other?Ding! ding! ding! -- we have a winner folks... (...well kind of... I think 😂).
Honestly speaking, I can't say I've noticed this particular phenomenon myself as a player, as I haven't ever used an inner-composite blade to the point of failure. 🤔🤔 Nor have I ever had a customer or sales rep complain to me before about the life of inner carbon construction blades being generally shorter than that of an outer carbon equivalent (regardless of the brand, type or manufacturer).
What I *can* confirm however is that (generally speaking - as @Tyce correctly points out) there's a potentially higher than normal risk of separation / cracking / delamination problems occuring whenever you try to laminate extremely hard, stiff and inflexible material (such as some modern composite fabrics) directly onto very soft low-density wood (as is often found in your typical blade's core).
In the simplest terms possible, when building a blade, the more dissimilar two proximate materials are in a blade's composition, the more trouble you are going to experience if you also want them to move and flex together. Depending on the materials in question, and the amount of movement you ask of them, sooner or later material fatigue starts to becomes a factor,
You get around this problem by making the relative differences in material properties as small as practically possible, and by ensuring the surrounding layers are lending their support.
When planning a blade you also need to allow anisotropic material to be true to its nature. Wood is *always* going to be substantively stronger or weaker along one plane compared to others (hence the use of the term anisotropic). Sure modern composites can help add symmetrical, multidimensional stiffness to the mix, but that's still doesn't change the underlying nature of the softer weaker wood located right next to it.
In theory, as outer composite layers are typically surrounded by layers of denser harder material than you find in the core, there's a slightly smaller risk of fatigue, as mechanical forces are typically slightly better distributed throughout the layers.
TL: DR Version....
Eh... The general idea has some technical merit to it, but it all depends on the blade in question, the user, and its operating environment.
As always, mileage and/or individual user results may vary.
So basically koto and carbon pairs better than limba and carbon because the hardnesses are more similar to each other?
I noticed that when gluing the top layer of koto, this layer is much more saturated with glue. The glue comes out and it is necessary to use polyethylene pads so that this glue does not stick to the press. The blade with the surface of the limba is less saturated with glue. If we use limba extra veneer, which is much denser, then the glue does not come out on the surface at all. Accordingly, it is much more difficult to peel off koto from the the carbon layer or other wood because the glue penetrates into the koto very deeply.So basically koto and carbon pairs better than limba and carbon because the hardnesses are more similar to each other?
I respect your opinion but i was always thinking that the aggressive hard hitters preferred the outer carbon blades with (eg.) hard Koto outer layer ???????????Imo/what I think/feel is that inner carbon blades are more suitable for a more aggressive playing style both close and further away from the table i.e. more strain on the material and therefore will degrade faster.
I respect your opinion but i was always thinking that the aggressive hard hitters preferred the outer carbon blades with (eg.) hard Koto outer layer ???????????
yeah ,2 outer wood versus 1 outer woodHas anyone IRL felt that their outer carbon blades degrades faster than their inners? I'm not sensitive enough to tell.
I don't trust Zhang Jike, while, unquestionably, an amazing player, he's sketchy. In addition, he's selling outer carbon blades atm