How to remove glue from ESN rubber sponge

only thing i found was to pull it off slowly very slowly and put ALOT more glue on it ofc once its dried

I have 2 balls said:

I have a habit of changing and reusing rubbers from time to time. Lately I tried to remove glue on a donic bluefire m2 but the surface of the sponge fell off together with the glue layer. I dont want to damage the sponge. Is there any better way of removing the glue?

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Depends mainly on three factors.
1 Which glue was used? - Some are easier to peel off than others.
2 How much glue was used? - More layers are easier to get a grip on and peel off as one.
3 How delicate is the sponge? - No fixed rule here, but I´ve peeled off the same glue from different Rubbers with very different results.

What I have seen and what may work for you follows 2 - how much glue. A Player strips the rubber from the blade and adds layer after layer of glue (add layer, blowdry, add layer, etc.) to arrive at a good thick layer, which he could then peel off easily. Glue used: Revolution 3 (a good glue anyway, if you can stand the smell). Should work with other glues, and the Rubbers were Evolution, which I consider more delicate than others.

I have 2 balls said:

I have a habit of changing and reusing rubbers from time to time. Lately I tried to remove glue on a donic bluefire m2 but the surface of the sponge fell off together with the glue layer. I dont want to damage the sponge. Is there any better way of removing the glue?

Click to expand...

Why remove the glue? I reglue regularly for players at my club. I do remove glue from the blades, but leave the rubbers alone. In fact, it often is sticky enough to need a thin layer on the blade only to get a good bond, and if not a very thin layer suffices to soften up the existing layer(s) and create the necessary bond.

I did try to remove glue every now and then - on rubbers that took strands of the top layer with it when removing. Hard, if not impossible, to get a smooth bond after that happens. Using some oil and a lot of patience I did manage on rubbers with very hard sponges, but most ESN rubbers aren't all that hard and have porous sponges that easily crumble even when rubbing gently.

I have 2 balls said:

yes thats exactly how it went. Just the lady from my local store reminded me to remove glue every time I peel it off the blade so I thought it was a common practice.

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She's right. It really is.

By accident I found out a good way to remove old glue residue.

All you need is to pour a few drops of oil onto the sponge and wait a minute to let it sink in and do its work.
Then start rubbing your thumb on that area and after a few seconds the glue will be coming off effortlessly, repeat this until the whole sponge is clean. But remember, only very little oil is needed so it just sinks into the glue layer and not into the sponge.
[Emoji2]
Here's how i found out [Upsidedowncarl might remember this story, as i've posted it here on TTD when it happened. Even took some photos]:

Anyway, as i said, I actually found this out by accident after I've received a used National H3Neo by a pro player. He told me that the boost effect was already gone but that I only needed a thin layer of booster or babyoil to reactivate the effect.
Unfortunately the babyoil layer I've used wasn't what people would consider thin, i was a bit too generous.
At one corner there were 2 little blobs of old glue from the previous owner.
While i tried to remove the ugly looking little glueblobs on the baby oil covered sponge i must have rubbed a little too hard so all of a sudden i held a whole sheet of glue/boost layer in my hands. It almost came off in one piece.

After this (until then) unwanted experience, i've tried this on some old rubbers of mine and it worked like a charm on ANY kind of glue i tried this on. No matter if old speedglue residue, wbg residue or latex glue, it worked on every chosen one without destroying the sponge at all. Give it a try. Maybe you have an old rubber where you can try it first, but actually you don't even have to. If your careful with the oil and gentle with the rub then nothing can go wrong.
Oh yeah, I've used babyoil, sunfloweroil, paraffine, actually whatever oil was available, and only very very little is needed. The keyword here is: DROPS!
If I recall correctly a few members of this forum tried my method with the same results. Let me see if i can find that old thread and post a link here.

Good luck.
[Emoji2]

In that case I think thick glue with two or more layers will me easier to peel of from the rubber. I'm now using a very thin glue, and the glue works on sponges that aren't so porous ,like chinese rubbers for example, with porous sponge the glue penetrates too much the sponge and when I remove the glue damages the sponge. So Stiga Attach Power Glue/Nittaku Finezip will do the job I guess!

I guess it depends on how you see it, but for me it takes much longer to spread on glue, wait until it's dry again, then spread on another layer and wait again and so on until the glue layer is thick enough to remove it easily. Using thick glue like Finezip might make it easier to create thick layers but those even take longer to dry.

My above described method only takes a few minutes. Just try it and find out for yourself.
I'm quite positive that your results will be pretty much the same as mine.