What oils can be used as boosters?

[Hamasaki_Fanz]

Reporting in: I feel my h3 lost it's babyoil effect already because I didnt remove the WBG (2 layers: one from rubber and one from blade) from the last time, maybe it's too thick and the baby oil can't be absorbed well. How long does your baby oil boost last fais?

 

[fais]

Reporting in: I feel my h3 lost it's babyoil effect already because I didnt remove the WBG (2 layers: one from rubber and one from blade) from the last time, maybe it's too thick and the baby oil can't be absorbed well. How long does your baby oil boost last fais?

Hey Fanz, could you please clarify? Why did the H3 lose the boost effect? Do you mean you tried to reboost this rubber, but did not notice as big a difference the second time, and you suspect this is due to too much left over glue?

I'm coming in on 3 months on my H3 and I'm noticing a minor dip in control, but the rubber mantains its kick and spin (I suspect due to tensor effect created on the topsheet when the sponge expanded). I won't know if the sponge has dried until i take the rubber off the blade. I suspect the loss of effect would result in the sponge shrinking again, causing the rubber to negative dome (the sheet is stretching outwards)

Have you taken your H3 off of your blade since your first boost? Did the rubber maintain its positive dome (the sheet curled inwards like your first pic). With boosters, I know the effect lasts about 3 weeks, at which point the training vid recommends only one new layer instead of 3 (more than 1 layer initially, 1 layer every time after).

 

[Hamasaki_Fanz]

Hey Fanz, could you please clarify? Why did the H3 lose the boost effect? Do you mean you tried to reboost this rubber, but did not notice as big a difference the second time, and you suspect this is due to too much left over glue?

I'm coming in on 3 months on my H3 and I'm noticing a minor dip in control, but the rubber mantains its kick and spin (I suspect due to tensor effect created on the topsheet when the sponge expanded). I won't know if the sponge has dried until i take the rubber off the blade. I suspect the loss of effect would result in the sponge shrinking again, causing the rubber to negative dome (the sheet is stretching outwards)

Have you taken your H3 off of your blade since your first boost? Did the rubber maintain its positive dome (the sheet curled inwards like your first pic). With boosters, I know the effect lasts about 3 weeks, at which point the training vid recommends only one new layer instead of 3 (more than 1 layer initially, 1 layer every time after).

So basically this is the second week since I boosted my H3. At first I really felt the tremendous kick and spin coming from the rubber which I've never felt before. Yesterday I played and I felt the kick and spin is much reduced. The H3 feels like my old H3.

I suspect this is due to 2 (not thin) layers of WBG, I'll update with picture once I found the picture. I didnt remove the WBG and just apply the oil immediately. The dome was not as crazy as your bigdipper picture. It's very small compared to yours.

Have you taken your H3 off of your blade since your first boost? no, and I will be taking a break for few weeks from TT due to busy work, I will reboost my H3 once I have time to play

edit : this was the first day after the second layer was applied. You can find the next day picture on my previous post.

here you can see how white the sponge is

 

[Liten]

Breaking news: testing a new oil to boost!

 

[UpSideDownCarl]

Breaking news: testing a new oil to boost!

Now you can boost your rubbers and oil your beard at the same time. Early reviews say Lion Tamer Beard, especially the National version, outperforms Falco and Dianchi. It's long lasting boost effect is second to none and it has a woody aroma that's hard to beat.


Sent from the Oracle of Delphi by the Pythia

 

[Liten]

Actually, it smells real nice! Sawdust combined with eucalyptus.. The beard is real shiny and smooth. Easier to brush/comb.

 

[Hamasaki_Fanz]

I decided to reboost my H3P yesterday and I think I fked up a little rofl. The last time I didnt remove the WBG after peeling from the blade and I used too little amount of baby oil, therefore I didnt get the dome like fais' dome.

So yesterday I was like fk this I'll bathe my 1.5yo H3P with baby oil. So I applied thick amount of oil until the point that probably ant could swim on it. After leaving it for 2 hours, I noticed the oil dripped when it started to dome. I wiped the excessive oil around the edge of the rubber using tissue.

It's been 18 hours and it still hasnt dried (and probably wont be able to dry).

At least I got a nice dome.

But I think I destroyed my rubber.

Last time I felt that it was too soft for 38 degree to be boosted (although the kicking effect + control + spin was really great, but I dont like the too soft feeling on chinese rubber), this time I think it will be too mushy.

will edit with picture later

EDIT : more than 24 hours have passed. I notice that the surface is glossy sticky greasy mushy from wbg mixed with the baby oil.

Asking fais sensei for what I should do next.
Is it how it's supposed to be?
How was yours? was it still glossy like mine?
Do I need for second layer? I don't think it can be glued to the blade in this condition. (I don't think it can 'dry', so the condition of the surface won't change)

 

[fais]

Hey HF, i myself have recently run into this. Ive been using my method to boost during the hot, arid summer days of texas, where i would notice the thick goop would dry enough to where i could slather glue onto the rubber/blade and be done.

Now, with winter weather heading our way, ive run into the same problem as you, but i may have a solution. Before i mention how i am tackling removing this goop build up that just wont dry, let me first say DONT TRY TO GLUE THEM ON YET! you are correct, it wont stick because the oil wont let the glue dry. this is the problem ive run into with the big dippers (its not that they are domed too much, its the oil/glue layer is keeping the rubber from sticking because the glue wont dry, even though the layer itself is extremely sticky).

So how do you remove this layer? Masking tape. Take a strip to the sponge, and peal gently. (When you peal however, make sure you are pulling the tape backwards, not upwards). Do this enough times and the back will look much dryer. This should allow the rubber to dry enough (may take more than a week, or a few days).

http://imgur.com/a/IJTs9

Be extra careful with softer sponges, as they tend to rip! i have have managed to remove quite a bit of this goop layer. I will be attempting to rettach my big dippers soon!

 

[Hamasaki_Fanz]

Hey HF, i myself have recently run into this. Ive been using my method to boost during the hot, arid summer days of texas, where i would notice the thick goop would dry enough to where i could slather glue onto the rubber/blade and be done.

Now, with winter weather heading our way, ive run into the same problem as you, but i may have a solution. Before i mention how i am tackling removing this goop build up that just wont dry, let me first say DONT TRY TO GLUE THEM ON YET! you are correct, it wont stick because the oil wont let the glue dry. this is the problem ive run into with the big dippers (its not that they are domed too much, its the oil/glue layer is keeping the rubber from sticking because the glue wont dry, even though the layer itself is extremely sticky).

So how do you remove this layer? Masking tape. Take a strip to the sponge, and peal gently. (When you peal however, make sure you are pulling the tape backwards, not upwards). Do this enough times and the back will look much dryer. This should allow the rubber to dry enough (may take more than a week, or a few days).

http://imgur.com/a/IJTs9

Be extra careful with softer sponges, as they tend to rip! i have have managed to remove quite a bit of this goop layer. I will be attempting to rettach my big dippers soon!

Thanks for the tips! one question: please define dry 'would dry enough to where i could slather glue onto the rubber/blade and be done'.

Is it no glossy look?
Is it no greasy feeling when you touch the sponge?


and btw, mine doesnt really have 'goop' because I applied super super super thin layer of WBG, just enough to coat the sponge. My surface is just greasy and sticky. If I want to remove it, I could just press newspaper/tissue on it and it will be absorbed easily. But the question is do I need to remove it? because I dont know how dry is enough to make another layer of glue above it will dry and can stick into the blade

 

[Hamasaki_Fanz]

WELPPPP!! The rubber wont really stick to the blade because it's oily and probably because of the strong dome.

Especially on the top right and top left parts of the rubber, there's always a little gap because the strong dome.

Before I glued it, I've cleaned the sponge using oil paper/tissue for food (you know the one we use to absorb the oil from fries), it's no longer shiny, but still you can still feel that surface is greasy when you rub your finger.

Now I just put a book and a samsung galaxy tab 2 10inch on top of my racket (not too heavy, but heavy enough I guess to press the rubber). Hopefully it will stick.

For the boosting review: I think I mightve overboosted it, the spin is tremendous, but I lost the control (probably because of the rubber doesnt stick well yet, not sure), I can hear loud cracking sound when I hit the ball, and the rubber becomes faster as well with less tack. Overall not really satisfied with the performance of the rubber but not disappointed either. If the control were there, it would be perfect.

 

[igorponger]

https://www.google.com/search?client=ms-opera-mini&channel=new&q=the+game+not+worth+candle+++idioms

The game is not worth the candles.
Messy job, time waste.

 

[yogi_bear]

I tried using a sewing machine oil because it has the same consistency as falco and it is very good.i added about 20ml parrafin to the 100ml oil.

 

[eduardo1995filipe]

Doesn't paraffin oil contains VOC? I saw that was inflamable

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