Boosting H3 NEO National

[Tango K]

Or maybe just bad luck of some people, not the glue itself Mine got yellowish, water was separated from the substances after just maybe 4 months. The Stiga on the other hand is still doing well after 1 year, passing the lock down. I keep them both well in bags, under low drawer.

 

[tabletennistom123]

All up for Attitude. Regarding glue, you may use Stiga Attach Power Glue (which I use) or Nittaku Fine Zip (lots ppl here use). DHS N15 doesn’t last very long once opened (I experienced myself and some ppl reported so online). Boost thin, glue medium (not too thin)

I just bought a Rev. no3 cuz it was available on the site where I ordered the booster.
Should work with boosted h3 or what u think ?

 

[Tango K]

I’ve heard some using it, quite thick too. Should be fine.

 

[IB66]

Rev no3 is a good glue for boosted rubbers/sponges.

Seal sponge with 1 coat glue, apply your booster as you like to,( u can apply booster direct to sponge, I prefer to have 1 layer of glue on sponge before boosting.)

when gluing on the rubber, I have been using at least 2 coats of glue on BOTH blade and rubber, usually 3 on rubber and 2 on blade. ( usually slightly thicker coats on blade j.

when changing rubber / or removing to re-boost -

take care when initially removing the rubber from the blade, as Rev no3 is a strong glue.

once the blade and rubber have been separated it should be an easy job to remove the glue from the sponge, from my experience, the glue seems to stick to the sponge, so blade is usually glue free !! The glue peels very easily from the sponge, leaving a very clean sponge with no or minimal glue residue !!!

 

[tabletennistom123]

Rev no3 is a good glue for boosted rubbers/sponges.

Seal sponge with 1 coat glue, apply your booster as you like to,( u can apply booster direct to sponge, I prefer to have 1 layer of glue on sponge before boosting.)

when gluing on the rubber, I have been using at least 2 coats of glue on BOTH blade and rubber, usually 3 on rubber and 2 on blade. ( usually slightly thicker coats on blade j.

when changing rubber / or removing to re-boost -

take care when initially removing the rubber from the blade, as Rev no3 is a strong glue.

once the blade and rubber have been separated it should be an easy job to remove the glue from the sponge, from my experience, the glue seems to stick to the sponge, so blade is usually glue free !! The glue peels very easily from the sponge, leaving a very clean sponge with no or minimal glue residue !!!

Thanks alot for your detailed guide!

 

[tabletennistom123]

H3 commercial for you. 2.1/2.15 thickness 39-40 hardness
If you like it and adjusted to this kind of rubber you can "upgrade" to provincial or national depending on your budget.

Color: orange is easier to getting used to. Blue is more lively and requires nearly perfect technique. It is quite unforgivable of you hit a shitty stroke.

Booster: this is mostly personal preference. Buy what you can get your hands on. Everyone will tell you smth different which is the best booster. The only real difference a noticed is the longevity and the reaction.
For example: you need usually more layers of haifu than tempo long booster. But haifu is more forgiving and less aggressive. If you **** up with tlb you gonna have a Rubber which will never undome and probably bubble the moment you hit a ball.
So just buy what you get your hands on.

Your glue example is fine. I personally use dhs no 15 which is quite thick and pretty strong. Both characteristics are quite important otherwise you wouldnt get your rubber unto the blade if the rubber is still domed.

The rest was already answered in your thread.
In general boosting requires some experience with it. So you wont have the best result immediatly. Just go for 2-3 layers and adjust the next time.

Remember, boosting softens the sponge and gives the rubber the little bit of tensor feeling you probably know from your dignics. Just a little bit different.
And never boost too much, otherwise you damage the sponge and probably the rubber too, so you wont be able to use it for long and it is gonna feel mushy and unreliable.

I ordered from dhs-729.eu
.. I went for a normal h3 not the NEO one because it was just 12$ instead of 43$ .. Just for website legit test.
Can I get some good boosting results with that one too ?
Its sponge is harder than the NEO one right ?
I´ll just take it as a legit check and a "personal first boost try" I guess.
If I like it and site is legit I should go for the NEO one right ?

 

[Tango K]

They are kinda the same. The non-NEO is actually easier to boost as it doesn’t have muddy layer. I myself use non-NEO. Commercial is supposed to be within $20 everywhere.

Take time to learn it. Your swing will slowly gets longer over time but don’t try hard for power. It’s mostly the shape of the stroke.

 

[Attitude]

I ordered from dhs-729.eu
.. I went for a normal h3 not the NEO one because it was just 12$ instead of 43$ .. Just for website legit test.
Can I get some good boosting results with that one too ?
Its sponge is harder than the NEO one right ?
I´ll just take it as a legit check and a "personal first boost try" I guess.
If I like it and site is legit I should go for the NEO one right ?

https://dhs-729.eu/de/belaege/43-49...5_mm/34-harte_des_schwammes-38_40_mittel_hart

This one would have been the neo commercial version.

Yeah you can get at least similar results.
Like i said in another post, the neo Version is just more receptive and a bit better in overall "stats". But the difference is not significant in terms of needed technique and performance.

If this rubber suits you well you can even sitcck with the normal Hurricane 3 too and go for the provincal version of the normal hurricane 3:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/326...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

 

[IB66]

I ordered from dhs-729.eu
.. I went for a normal h3 not the NEO one because it was just 12$ instead of 43$ .. Just for website legit test.
Can I get some good boosting results with that one too ?
Its sponge is harder than the NEO one right ?
I´ll just take it as a legit check and a "personal first boost try" I guess.
If I like it and site is legit I should go for the NEO one right ?

I’ve bought quite a lot of rubbers from DHS-729, all good as far as I know!!
I boosted Standard H3 as my 1st try at boosting, used 3 coats of Falco long term, rubber domed really well, too well !!!!
thats why you need a strong glue, like the DHS 15, or Rev no3. Its able to keep the rubber on the blade, need to clamp or weigh down when gluing a sheet that is domed.
I glued a fully domed sheet, Struggled to keep it on the blade!! Needed to be weighed down in place for a few hours !!!

May be a good idea to get a couple or four of sheets of the cheaper H3, boost 3 sheets with different numbers of coats or type of booster and compare against the un-boosted one. So you can see what the difference really is and whether it’s worth the effort to boost!! And what the different boosting levels achieve.

A good tip is to cut the rubber to the blade size BEFORE the boosting process. Boosting swells / expands the sponge, making it bigger. After boosting glue it on and DON’T trim it back to the blade edge. Then after a couple of months, when the boosting effect has worn off and you remove the rubber it should shrink back to the pre-boost cut size and still fit on the blade. Read that on here on another post!!!!!
I can definitely say that if you do it the other way, ie boost a new uncut sheet, then cut to blade as usual, when you take the rubber off it ends up 5-6mm smaller than the blade!! Haven’t tried a 2nd boost yet, so don’t know if the sheet will expand back and fit properly!!

 

[IB66]

This is Butterfly Aibiss after 2 layers of FLT booster!! Posted this photo at the time, and was told NO MORE booster needed!!!!!
H3 Neo Provincial 37 degree and Skyline 3 Provincial blue sponge did the same, but with 2 layers of Seamoon booster.
The commercial H3 did this after 2 coats of FLT booster but I put an extra coat on!! Probably over boosted!!
H3 National blue sponge 41degree, tried this with 2 layers of FLT, no real reaction as far as doming, maybe more layers of booster were required??? Or Seamoon booster, which is meant to be better for DHS.
Also just boosted Battle 2 provincial blue sponge with 2 layers of Seamoon, slight doming only so far.

 

[tabletennistom123]

Wouldnt it be cool if u dont cut before boosting?
So you see exactly when the boost has worn off?
Correct me if Im wrong

 

[IB66]

Wouldnt it be cool if u dont cut before boosting?
So you see exactly when the boost has worn off?
Correct me if Im wrong

Hi,
When you boost full sheet, then glue to blade and trim, fit is perfect, when the boosting effect has worn off the rubber still fits perfectly, It’s when you remove the rubber, the rubber shrinks back as the glue is no longer holding the rubber in tension (stretching it) on the blade. It’s great that you can see how much the rubber/sponge expanded during the boosting process !!! But not so good if you re-boost and it doesn’t expand to the original 1st boost size!!! Not covering the blade properly!!!

 

[Attitude]

Hi,
When you boost full sheet, then glue to blade and trim, fit is perfect, when the boosting effect has worn off the rubber still fits perfectly, It’s when you remove the rubber, the rubber shrinks back as the glue is no longer holding the rubber in tension (stretching it) on the blade. It’s great that you can see how much the rubber/sponge expanded during the boosting process !!! But not so good if you re-boost and it doesn’t expand to the original 1st boost size!!! Not covering the blade properly!!!

Never had that problem. But my rubber never survived more than 2 boosting processes. Maybe you will get there eventually. Because after every process i had to cut more from the rubber to make it fit to the blade. But at the beginning you wont get there. At least if you stick to one way of boosting

 

[Tango K]

Never had that problem either. The rubber never shrinks back. Second boost expands it even further, and third, making it a bit softer and softer and mushier.

 

[tabletennistom123]

@attitude which booster did u use ? I forgot..
Was it Seamoon ?
How long does it last for in your experience ?

 

[Attitude]

Falco TLB
Seamoon doesnt last that long. But everything depends in that department. How often did you already boost that rubber, how often did you play with it, how many layers did you put on. How did you boost the rubber...

What im trying to say is that you shouldnt consider what others are saying in that matter. If your booster effect runs out you should feel it somehow. If that is the case you should start boosting the next rubber^^

I made the mistake to hardly boost one hurricane with 3 layers ftlb and played with it 3 months. Nothing changed and i still reboosted it. The result was a mushy and literally deatroyed rubber which i could get rid of, after one training session.

 

[tabletennistom123]

Oh yea okay I understand.
My H3 will arrive today and I´ll go for my first boost with the seamoon.
I already ordered a h3 neo national blue from china.
I dont mind throwing that h3 away after boost worn off.
But with the h3 neo national.. things gonna rip my wallet lol

 

[IB66]

Never had that problem. But my rubber never survived more than 2 boosting processes. Maybe you will get there eventually. Because after every process i had to cut more from the rubber to make it fit to the blade. But at the beginning you wont get there. At least if you stick to one way of boosting

So Far, I've removed 2 boosted sheets, more to try on different blades, rather than re-boost, both of these sheets were glued on whist still domed slightly. both shrunk back by about 5mm !!!

A Question I have is -

Why let the doming go down ?????

Sponge has expanded and started to stretch the rubber, which doesn't want to be stretched and this causes the doming.
I don't think the rubber expands due to the booster only the sponge??
so if he doming is left to go down, then the sponge must have shrunk back towards its original size??
In which case the stretching (tensioning) of the rubber top sheet has been reduced significantly??
So if you want additional tensioning to the top sheet (which can be seen by having a more visible pimple pattern) you must glue the rubber onto the blade before the doming reduces ??

Then, when the booster wears off, and the sheet is taken off of the blade, its the tensioned rubber top sheet that sort of 'springs' back to its original size, (Shrink)

I'm not 100% certain but personally I think that you should glue the boosted sheet on when the doming is still strong, thus ensuring the rubber top sheet is tensioned properly. that's why a stronger glue Is required, and the reason that the Revolution brand have an accessory - 'Racket Press' that can be used to compress the freshly glued rubber, ensuring that it doesn't curl at the edges and an even pressure is applied across the whole of the bats surface during the 'curing' period. (setting of glue). heavy books etc are a cheaper option !!!!!

 

[Attitude]

It depends...
First of all there is noch good receipt to boost out there, which involves complete undoming. So every boosted rubber has to be domed by the time the tutorial tells you to glue the boosted rubber. Normally you wait for around 1-2 days after your last layer of booster before you glue it to the blade. That procoess is only to let the booster dry out/soak into the sponge, so you dont mix your glue with the remaining booster.

But!
If you made a mistake, for example one of your layers was too thick your rubber will dome so hard, that you will probably fail to glue it to the racket in that state. Thats why you would some day to let this reaction wear off.

@stretching topic: if your sponge is getting stretched it will let the rubber part stretch too bc it is attached. That is pretty much the reason for the bubbling. If the pimples get stretched to hard, they break or get lose, which causes the bubbling.

All in all your are right with most of your assumptions.

 

[Tango K]

Probably I never have the problems (I’ve done in total 5 pieces, 1 commercial, 1 NEO commercial, 1 Pro OS, 2 Pro BS 40 degree, redone probably 6 times - I’ve lost count) because (1) I boost very light (only 2 thin layer) and (2) always wait for the dome to be off significantly. Also (3) I only redo after 2 month, by which the rubber has probably been permanently stretched.

Boosting stretches sponge more than top-sheet but my episodes show it affects everything. Even the tack gets more oily.
It’s probably expected if you glue straightaway the effect is maximized and Chinese pros do just that (boost and glue before match or the night before) as caught by cameras sometimes. But you gotta make a trade-off as a recreational player. You want it to feel the same for a couple of months and to make the glue job easy.