Different Hurricane results based on boosting procedure

[Yxoons]

One thing I found curious, is peoples results from different boosting procedures.

It's very visible that the top professional players are using highly boosted rubbers due to the visible pimples, and after boosting myself, I found that it's easily replicatable, but also comes with tradeoffs.

Both rubbers below H3N National BS and are boosted with exact same amount of Haifu National Yellow, 2 layers with 24 hours inbetween each on top of a bottle, and 24 hours after last layer before gluing.
It may be hard to see below, but the rubber on the left is a lot more tacky and sticky, while the one on the right is very matte and grippy.

Only difference in procedure is that the protective film was kept on on the left rubber, while it was removed before boosting on the right one. The result is 2 completely different rubbers, which may be an obvious result for many, but I'm surprised there isn't a boosting procedure and result post on here already, to help others achieve the boosting result they want.

Basically by removing the protective film before boosting you allow the topsheet to stretch a lot more with the sponge, which creates a lot more tension and also turns the sticky topsheet into a more grippy surface. It also makes the rubber feel a lot harder and faster to use, better for blocks but less forgiving.

However I am curious, how do you guys boost your Hurricane 3, and what is your result?

 

[zeio]

The one on the right looks oxidized.

 

[Yxoons]

The one on the right looks oxidized.

It is but only slightly, it was sticky like left before boosting, but after matte and grippy like the top picture, the lighting makes it hard to see

 

[dingyibvs]

One thing I found curious, is peoples results from different boosting procedures.

It's very visible that the top professional players are using highly boosted rubbers due to the visible pimples, and after boosting myself, I found that it's easily replicatable, but also comes with tradeoffs.

View attachment 42499

Both rubbers below H3N National BS and are boosted with exact same amount of Haifu National Yellow, 2 layers with 24 hours inbetween each, and 24 hours after last layer before gluing.
It may be hard to see below, but the rubber on the left is a lot more tacky and sticky, while the one on the right is very matte and grippy.

Only difference in procedure is that the protective film was kept on on the left rubber, while it was removed before boosting on the right one. The result is 2 completely different rubbers, which may be an obvious result for many, but I'm surprised there isn't a boosting procedure and result post on here already, to help others achieve the boosting result they want.

Basically by removing the protective film before boosting you allow the topsheet to stretch a lot more with the sponge, which creates a lot more tension and also turns the sticky topsheet into a more grippy surface. It also makes the rubber feel a lot harder and faster to use, better for blocks but less forgiving.

View attachment 42498

However I am curious, how do you guys boost your Hurricane 3, and what is your result?

That's just DHS quality control, has nothing to do with boosting procedure. I've boosted both ways and have gotten a non-sticky one only once and that was with leaving the protective sheet on.

 

[Yxoons]

That's just DHS quality control, has nothing to do with boosting procedure. I've boosted both ways and have gotten a non-sticky one only once and that was with leaving the protective sheet on.

I don't think you understand, I know quality control can affect tackiness, but both rubbers were just as tacky/sticky before boosting.

 

[ajtatosmano2]

I just seen the video of Hwan Bae where he shows his H3 National BS and his are still lifting the ball pretty well. There is the usual shine as well. I am not sure which is the better.

 

[Topspinslinger]

Nice post!
I only know two methodes but never thought of this. First is with one glue layer and then boosting (mostly for hard tacky rubbers)
Second is directly on sponge which is mostly for hybrid/ tensor rubbers like d09c or D05

 

[Yxoons]

I just seen the video of Hwan Bae where he shows his H3 National BS and his are still lifting the ball pretty well. There is the usual shine as well. I am not sure which is the better.

I can say they feel very different, but you will see this kind of topsheet on almost all the top players rackets, hard to find clear images of them but some examples.

*Note at a side angle they will all have a lot of shine

 

[dingyibvs]

I don't think you understand, I know quality control can affect tackiness, but both rubbers were just as tacky/sticky before boosting.

Then perhaps the one you left without a cover simply oxidized, which can happen if left uncovered especially in a hot environment.

 

[Yxoons]

Then perhaps the one you left without a cover simply oxidized, which can happen if left uncovered especially in a hot environment.

I hope you are trolling with this comment after watching my other replies

 

[dingyibvs]

I hope you are trolling with this comment after watching my other replies

No, I'm saying you probably need to experiment before you can make that conclusion. I've boosted countless H3s, BS, OS, black, and red, with the protective sheet on or removed, it makes no difference to the tackiness. The only time tackiness is significantly affected is 1) when the sheet is bad (only happened once), and 2) when I leave a sheet out uncovered either for a prolonged period of time or for even a relatively short period of time (a couple days) in my garage which can get pretty hot.

 

[Yxoons]

No, I'm saying you probably need to experiment before you can make that conclusion. I've boosted countless H3s, BS, OS, black, and red, with the protective sheet on or removed, it makes no difference to the tackiness. The only time tackiness is significantly affected is 1) when the sheet is bad (only happened once), and 2) when I leave a sheet out uncovered either for a prolonged period of time or for even a relatively short period of time (a couple days) in my garage which can get pretty hot.

Well, I've done 3x procedure of removing protective film and resting on a small bottle cap to allow for maximum stretch with same result as the ones you see on pictures from players - only now tried without removing to see if it kept the topsheet less stretched, which it did. All rubbers started out with the same tacky surface.

If oxidation was the reason for this during boosting procedure, then we would be changing H3N rubbers every 48 hours of playing? And how come the professional rubbers look like that on the pictures? Are they playing with highly oxidated rubbers? I doubt it.

For your boosting, do you rest it on a flat surface or on something small to allow for more dome? To me this could easily sound like the difference as well