Friendship 729 battle 3

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Would B3 38° be too soft on FH on a Novacell OFF blade ( 5ply, 2 limba outers).
Its for someone who hasnt played chinese rubbers before and asked me which hardness to choose from.
He wont boost, his level isnt that high but his looping technique is decent and adaptable.

My main concern is low power shots which could make it uncontrollable and too "strange" for him.
38, easier low power and drive shots, faster bottoming out and maybe less "power".
Or,
39, a little bit harder, more difficult low power shots, more top end power

He wont play against high level players either, so low power might be more important.
 
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How good is B3 in humid conditions? I know it has elastic topsheet so that looks less humid-prone than the B2 series having hard topsheet.
I really like B2 BS 39 on my FH but it's summer now and it becomes very humid in the hall after 2 hours of practice and B2 becomes less grippy than even a frictionless anti😁.
I remember @Zwill mentioned that Mantra Pro is not prone to humidity. I have Mantra H and it's still good when it's humid but I don't like the feeling of the tensioned rubber. Now I play on BH Gewo Nexxus XT 48. It has soft topsheet but when it's humid it feels like a fast LP.
I'd like to find a Chinese rubber that's not prone to the humidity. I know H3 is good but I just don't like it, maybe because I don't have the right blade.
I thought of buying a sheet of G666 as I have very good memories with it.
Like with most sticky rubbers, you will have a hard time with B3 in humid conditions.
The playing hall of the tournament I was playing in yesterday, had humidity close to a sauna.
I lost all 3 matches, couldnt brush loop, would miss serves into the net and had pushes go to the side of the table.
The tackiness of B3 was only a part of the problem, but I had to wipe it clean after every point to make it close to playable.
In the last match I switched to my Pro 05 racket with Mantra Pro on FH and BH.
It was better but I couldnt adapt as well as I would have liked to and lost 2-3.
 
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Would B3 38° be too soft on FH on a Novacell OFF blade ( 5ply, 2 limba outers).
Its for someone who hasnt played chinese rubbers before and asked me which hardness to choose from.
He wont boost, his level isnt that high but his looping technique is decent and adaptable.

My main concern is low power shots which could make it uncontrollable and too "strange" for him.
38, easier low power and drive shots, faster bottoming out and maybe less "power".
Or,
39, a little bit harder, more difficult low power shots, more top end power

He wont play against high level players either, so low power might be more important.
38 is still pretty hard, tough to bottom it out unless you're really swinging hard. As you say - it adds more catapult to the low end, sacrifices a little top end that probably isn't important to most people. I think B3-38 with booster compares very well to harder 50-52 degree eurojap hybrids. Without booster it's still solid, I find it much more usable than, say, an unboosted H3Neo.

Suitability depends more on what your friend is playing with now and is used to. The blade might not be fast enough, depending on what they're used to now, so there would be some adaptation.
 
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How good is B3 in humid conditions? I know it has elastic topsheet so that looks less humid-prone than the B2 series having hard topsheet.
I really like B2 BS 39 on my FH but it's summer now and it becomes very humid in the hall after 2 hours of practice and B2 becomes less grippy than even a frictionless anti😁.
I remember @Zwill mentioned that Mantra Pro is not prone to humidity. I have Mantra H and it's still good when it's humid but I don't like the feeling of the tensioned rubber. Now I play on BH Gewo Nexxus XT 48. It has soft topsheet but when it's humid it feels like a fast LP.
I'd like to find a Chinese rubber that's not prone to the humidity. I know H3 is good but I just don't like it, maybe because I don't have the right blade.
I thought of buying a sheet of G666 as I have very good memories with it.
G666 was once my favorite because of its tremendous spin and easy to play. Maybe you will love 729 Bloom Power, I think they are very similar but the Bloom has more high end speed
 
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B3 is begging for a fast blade.
It seems as though it's response is out of phase with slower blades, which means the properties that make it great are masked.


I know it isn't a H3 national, but B3 is markedly more spinny than the vast majority of rubbers.
What blade did you test this on, and what hardness?
Darker Avantir, Xiom An Jaehyun Pro
39 hardness
After 4 hours the rubber is Still new so hard to judge their spin. Its more than okay for me, its not dignics but I enjoyed
 
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How good is B3 in humid conditions? I know it has elastic topsheet so that looks less humid-prone than the B2 series having hard topsheet.
I really like B2 BS 39 on my FH but it's summer now and it becomes very humid in the hall after 2 hours of practice and B2 becomes less grippy than even a frictionless anti😁.
I remember @Zwill mentioned that Mantra Pro is not prone to humidity. I have Mantra H and it's still good when it's humid but I don't like the feeling of the tensioned rubber. Now I play on BH Gewo Nexxus XT 48. It has soft topsheet but when it's humid it feels like a fast LP.
I'd like to find a Chinese rubber that's not prone to the humidity. I know H3 is good but I just don't like it, maybe because I don't have the right blade.
I thought of buying a sheet of G666 as I have very good memories with it.
I've not found it to be an issue. I find the typical issues for the tacky rubber life is dominant, where the topsheet picks up ball dust and grime during extended play. I simply adjust or take a break to clean it if I need to. If I specifically want to work on looping, I make sure to do that first. Otherwise, I just become more cautious and don't try to overly brush the ball as play goes on if I can't be bothered to clean it. Power loops and big drives are completely unaffected.

Furthermore, since looping underpin is adding to the existing spin, and not reversing it, this involves less top sheet deformation for a given sponge engagement, so looping half-long serves doesn't seem to be overly effected.

B2P BS 39 was my forehand for a while and the difference is both significant, yet subtle, at the same time.The foundation is similar, they're hard and tacky, but B3 has a slightly more elastic top sheet
You basically get more of everything.
  • More speed (everywhere, but at the lowest possible speeds),
  • It is mostly linear (you get a slight mid range bump),
  • The throw angle is similar (only slightly higher).
  • Throw angle consistency is similarly excellent (people don't seem to understand this very well, but GA8 taught me that the amount of blade angle for various power levels is different for each rubber).
  • Top end extension behaviour. When you really get after it and push the sponge limits, B2, B3, H3, G1, 09C, etc., all behave well up top (no surprises). Many ESN and tensor rubbers lose composure as the top sheet elasticity limit or sponge limits are approached.
I did not think I would like B3 more than B2P BS, which has that perfect linearity and is less reliant on tack vs. regular B2P for spin (better mechanical grip). But sure enough, B3 is genuinely just better at everything. Or to put it another way, it has a higher overall potential which only requires minor adjustments to exploit.

Darker Avantir, Xiom An Jaehyun Pro
39 hardness
After 4 hours the rubber is Still new so hard to judge their spin. Its more than okay for me, its not dignics but I enjoyed

Oh, it needs a lot longer before you'll see what it's really capable of.
 
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How good is B3 in humid conditions? I know it has elastic topsheet so that looks less humid-prone than the B2 series having hard topsheet.
I really like B2 BS 39 on my FH but it's summer now and it becomes very humid in the hall after 2 hours of practice and B2 becomes less grippy than even a frictionless anti😁.
I remember @Zwill mentioned that Mantra Pro is not prone to humidity. I have Mantra H and it's still good when it's humid but I don't like the feeling of the tensioned rubber. Now I play on BH Gewo Nexxus XT 48. It has soft topsheet but when it's humid it feels like a fast LP.
I'd like to find a Chinese rubber that's not prone to the humidity. I know H3 is good but I just don't like it, maybe because I don't have the right blade.
I thought of buying a sheet of G666 as I have very good memories with it.
I think B3 handles humidity just fine. I don't have an issue with it. I think it's pretty comparable with how H3 national handles it. I'm saying the national since that has a similar topsheet surface as B3. Similar kind of matte, commercial H3 for me was much more glossy.
 
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I think B3 handles humidity just fine. I don't have an issue with it. I think it's pretty comparable with how H3 national handles it. I'm saying the national since that has a similar topsheet surface as B3. Similar kind of matte, commercial H3 for me was much more glossy.
Sir, you have used R9 before and now you are using B3. Do you think B3 is similar to R9 or is it better?
 
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Sir, you have used R9 before and now you are using B3. Do you think B3 is similar to R9 or is it better?
I tried the R9 briefly and I am not sure if I got a bad sheet or it's just so bad but for me the R9 was not great at all. I would describe it as super dead but honestly a recent H3N provincial BS was super dead for me. Before I had H3 national BS and that was fast and lively so I am not sure what is going on.

I think B3 has more versatile use, I can use it like an ESN hybrid if I want or a H3 if I want, it can deal with both style. H3 is very sensitive to racket angles. B3 not so sensitive, so even if you a little bit close your racket angle the ball won't end up in the bottom of the net. You don't need to worry about your impact so much, you can rub the ball too and it works out pretty well, but strong impact shots are great.
B3 is very good at service, that hack is hard not to notice and appreciate.

I now flirt around twiddling my B3 on my backhand sometimes and I can play with it just fine and I wouldn't say it resembles V15 extra much by look but I can play with the 40deg B3 just fine on my backhand. So it must be more tolerant than H3 or some other Chinese rubbers.
 
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I tried the R9 briefly and I am not sure if I got a bad sheet or it's just so bad but for me the R9 was not great at all. I would describe it as super dead but honestly a recent H3N provincial BS was super dead for me. Before I had H3 national BS and that was fast and lively so I am not sure what is going on.

I think B3 has more versatile use, I can use it like an ESN hybrid if I want or a H3 if I want, it can deal with both style. H3 is very sensitive to racket angles. B3 not so sensitive, so even if you a little bit close your racket angle the ball won't end up in the bottom of the net. You don't need to worry about your impact so much, you can rub the ball too and it works out pretty well, but strong impact shots are great.
B3 is very good at service, that hack is hard not to notice and appreciate.

I now flirt around twiddling my B3 on my backhand sometimes and I can play with it just fine and I wouldn't say it resembles V15 extra much by look but I can play with the 40deg B3 just fine on my backhand. So it must be more tolerant than H3 or some other Chinese rubbers.
Hi Zwill
Have you tried any of Big Dipper, Jupiter Asia 3 or Rakza Z before?
I'm wondering how you would compare them V 729 Battle 3?
I currently have all 3 of those rubbers (Big Dipper 38° currently the favourite) so am kinda wondering if the difference might be enough to be worth trying B3...
 
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Hi Zwill
Have you tried any of Big Dipper, Jupiter Asia 3 or Rakza Z before?
I'm wondering how you would compare them V 729 Battle 3?
I currently have all 3 of those rubbers (Big Dipper 38° currently the favourite) so am kinda wondering if the difference might be enough to be worth trying B3...
Actually tried all all of them. Well Rakza Z Extra Hard only. The RZEH I had a softer red sheet and a very very hard black sheet. I liked the red a lot and hated the black a lot. The black was so hard it felt like playing with PVC.
The red one I like since it was pretty slow and spinny. Works very well with seamless ball and it's priced fairly and durability is good too. It's very comparable to a boosted H3N orange. Big caveat is that RZEH is pretty heavy at 54g cut to Viscaria head.

Jupiter Asia 3 to me seemed like a quite strongly boosted H3N orange type rubber. Pretty fast, has a dense sponge but suprisingly fast. It's dirt cheap and the spin it made was okay. It has a pretty flat trajectory. Honestly I could imagine it on my BH side more since it's so fast. I didn't use it for long.

Big Dipper is an average spin, pretty good speed once broken in type of Chinese rubber. 38 deg broken-in is awesome for BH on FH I think it's too soft. It has quite a lot of bounce too it once broken in.
I think it's the best gateway rubber on the cheap if someone wants to transition from ESN or Japanese rubbers to sticky Chinese. A well broken in sponge (38deg) has a speedglue click to it.

Yinhe is pretty nice that they apply the glue on the sponge too which is a good touch especially for beginner gluers.

For new starters (or injured players) I usually recommend 2 Big Dippers on a T11+ blade since it's slow when it needs to be slow and fast when it needs to be fast. Plenty of spin and this racket setup can be in the 160-165g territory.

Rakza Z EH is probably the most capable rubber as it does everything well but the spread in sponge hardness makes me very concerned.
 
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Actually tried all all of them. Well Rakza Z Extra Hard only. The RZEH I had a softer red sheet and a very very hard black sheet. I liked the red a lot and hated the black a lot. The black was so hard it felt like playing with PVC.
The red one I like since it was pretty slow and spinny. Works very well with seamless ball and it's priced fairly and durability is good too. It's very comparable to a boosted H3N orange. Big caveat is that RZEH is pretty heavy at 54g cut to Viscaria head.

Jupiter Asia 3 to me seemed like a quite strongly boosted H3N orange type rubber. Pretty fast, has a dense sponge but suprisingly fast. It's dirt cheap and the spin it made was okay. It has a pretty flat trajectory. Honestly I could imagine it on my BH side more since it's so fast. I didn't use it for long.

Big Dipper is an average spin, pretty good speed once broken in type of Chinese rubber. 38 deg broken-in is awesome for BH on FH I think it's too soft. It has quite a lot of bounce too it once broken in.
I think it's the best gateway rubber on the cheap if someone wants to transition from ESN or Japanese rubbers to sticky Chinese. A well broken in sponge (38deg) has a speedglue click to it.

Yinhe is pretty nice that they apply the glue on the sponge too which is a good touch especially for beginner gluers.

For new starters (or injured players) I usually recommend 2 Big Dippers on a T11+ blade since it's slow when it needs to be slow and fast when it needs to be fast. Plenty of spin and this racket setup can be in the 160-165g territory.

Rakza Z EH is probably the most capable rubber as it does everything well but the spread in sponge hardness makes me very concerned.
Thanks dude, great detail there.

Do you prefer the B3 over all of them?

I had a red and black Rakza Z (regular) and the Red definitely felt softer. I wonder if it's just the properties of the red top sheet, black rubber being hardest.... But I played the Red 6 hrs a wk for a yr so that sponge was well and truly softened whereas my black sheet is only 2 mths in, it will probably soften a little with more play time, will see.
I find that there is plenty of spin from Big Dipper but it's a new sheet so will see in a few mths how it is. If it softens a lot I may try it for BH. I have a sheet of Moon 12 38° on the way so will compare it with that for BH.
For FH I haven't tried the Yinhe JA3 yet but while I'm doing this maybe I will bite the bullet and buy a B3 as well.
I'm using this summer to experiment with equipment a bit before LGE starts again in October.
I'm trying all of these rubbers on my Yasaka all wood blade before migrating to Nittaku Acoustic, it arrived last week.
Will put my old rubbers on that for direct comparison of blades before eventually trying all the Chinese rubbers on it.
Anyway bla bla bla me me me...
Looking fwd to posting some of my observations later in the yr, until then it'll be interesting and my biggest hope is I will love the €15 Chinese rubbers because my current (Rakza Z and X soft) are too expensive for me now!
 
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I think B3 has more versatile use, I can use it like an ESN hybrid if I want or a H3 if I want, it can deal with both style. H3 is very sensitive to racket angles. B3 not so sensitive, so even if you a little bit close your racket angle the ball won't end up in the bottom of the net. You don't need to worry about your impact so much, you can rub the ball too and it works out pretty well, but strong impact shots are great.
B3 is very good at service, that hack is hard not to notice and appreciate.

I now flirt around twiddling my B3 on my backhand sometimes and I can play with it just fine and I wouldn't say it resembles V15 extra much by look but I can play with the 40deg B3 just fine on my backhand. So it must be more tolerant than H3 or some other Chinese rubbers.
This is a really good point.

I slightly alluded to this in a previous post, but I don't believe the way the TT community compares/describes throw angle captures one of the key effects this has on the player. Admittedly, it's probably more of a technical challenge trying to measure this consistently, than anything else, but whatever the reason, the outcome, the way we discuss throw angle, is flawed.

Basically, rubbers do not have a singular throw angle metric. What we call "throw angle", is just a generalisation and doesn't capture the equally significant fact that even if two rubbers block or drive with the same blade angle at a given ball speed, they might have significantly different throw angles when looping, or at other ball speeds.

I believe that rubbers requiring less overall blade angle adjustment across the full dynamic range of shots and impact speeds, the more natural and predictable that rubber will feel. More importantly, the easier that rubbers full potential can be exploited

I believe this is why B3 is more versatile and even playable on backhand (at least, based on my observation, using a B3 on a V14Pro).

I actually have a good example of this.
Gold Arc 8 50 is my current backhand, and this has a very similar throw angle for passive blocking and drives, compared with my previous setup, which was Battle 2 Prov. Soft 37 (which is super nice on backhand, btw).

Initially, things felt great. They were so similar that it seemed as though I would be able to play with very little adjustment, but I would have more speed potential to exploit. 10 minutes into the session, we started to pickup the pace, and I started adding in some loops and flicks. All of a sudden, I'm dumping huge topspin loops into the net (with so much spin that the ball was trying to climb it), and sending some pretty pathetic active blocks long because they were 6 inches above the net. What's worse, it felt random as to when it would go long, or when it would dump.

It wasn't a grip issue, it wasn't a brush/slip issue, and it wasn't (mostly) a catapult issue. So why the hell was it so hard to get used to GA8? Was this rubber hyper spin sensitive?

I struggled for weeks with this, until it clicked.
The blade angle requirements of GA8 had a strong speed dependency.
It wasn't spin, it wasn't that the rubber was too fast, I simply needed to make some minor adjustments to the blade angle, based on the total impact speed.

Within 2 days after figuring this out, I could confidently crush the ball out of the air again and I've never looked back.
 
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Currently have a B3 40 on a Butterfly Balsa Carbo blade and a B3 39 on a Andro Treiber FI. Got about 6 to 8 hours on the B3 40, with the B3 39 I just played with for an hour.

Contrary to what I read it feels like the 39 hardness has less break in time to be. I likes the 40 hardness but the 39 instantly felt at home when I tried it at last evening. I could notice the difference in having to engage the rubber less, which I do like.

Gonna keep trying both out over the coming weeks, B3 is easily the best FH rubber I've played with over the last year, enjoying it a lot!
 
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Currently have a B3 40 on a Butterfly Balsa Carbo blade and a B3 39 on a Andro Treiber FI. Got about 6 to 8 hours on the B3 40, with the B3 39 I just played with for an hour.

Contrary to what I read it feels like the 39 hardness has less break in time to be. I likes the 40 hardness but the 39 instantly felt at home when I tried it at last evening. I could notice the difference in having to engage the rubber less, which I do like.

Gonna keep trying both out over the coming weeks, B3 is easily the best FH rubber I've played with over the last year, enjoying it a lot!
That sounds about right.
After about 75 ish hours, I can confidently say that B3 40 continues to improve slightly for quite a long time.
It must have been 30+ hours before it fully settled down. The majority of change occurred between 10 and 20.

39 was done by 15 hours, for me at least.
 
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That sounds about right.
After about 75 ish hours, I can confidently say that B3 40 continues to improve slightly for quite a long time.
It must have been 30+ hours before it fully settled down. The majority of change occurred between 10 and 20.

39 was done by 15 hours, for me at least.
Hmm, I was in belief that I read on here that the 39 hardness would take about 10 hours to break-in, whereas the 40 hardness took only 5 hours.

I'll keep giving them a go over then next months, going to make my two bats virtually the same rubber wise, only difference would be the hardness on the B3's. I have a sheet of 39 hardness still in storage so if the 40 doesn't break in to my liking, I can always swap it out for a new sheet of B3 39.
 
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Hmm, I was in belief that I read on here that the 39 hardness would take about 10 hours to break-in, whereas the 40 hardness took only 5 hours.

I'll keep giving them a go over then next months, going to make my two bats virtually the same rubber wise, only difference would be the hardness on the B3's. I have a sheet of 39 hardness still in storage so if the 40 doesn't break in to my liking, I can always swap it out for a new sheet of B3 39.
It depends, plus, it's quite hard to discern when you're in the middle of it, and without a reference.

I also thought both were done after 5-10 hours, however, it's actually that the rate of change significantly reduces at that point.

But yes, the majority of break in occurs fairly quickly, but it continues, just more slowly, for a while longer. It also tapers off gradually enough that I don't really have a definitive answer as to when it stopped. Maybe it was 25, maybe 35, I'm not sure, but what I do know is that it gradually improved for a lot longer than 5 to 10 hours...

Also, if you play hard, you might break it in faster than someone who is more passive, so factor that in a well.

If I were you, I would break in the 40 first and leave the 39 as fresh as you can. Then after 15 - 20 hours, see if a peak performing 40 is similar to a much fresher 39. Could be an interesting result.
 
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Do you prefer the B3 over all of them?
Maybe :), I liked the Rakza Z EH red I had but I think B3 is more durable and lighter by a lot soooo... These are just really objective properties. Especially on a Cybershape maybe 57-8g ughhhhh.

Contrary to what I read it feels like the 39 hardness has less break in time to be. I likes the 40 hardness but the 39 instantly felt at home when I tried it at last evening. I could notice the difference in having to engage the rubber less, which I do like.
I think I needed like 20 hours to break in the 40deg. Might depend on a lot of factors. For me it was probably the hotter weather. It got hotter and just broke in more. I could be wrong too.

Is it possible to compare the hardness of the Battle 3 with Hurricane 3 neo BS (national)?
I think it's rather pointless to compare it to H3. 40deg DHS and 40deg 729 will be 40deg hard both. The B3 topsheet is a bit softer than H3 so B3 feels a bit softer. It's also more elastic so a bit more bouncy than H3.
The stickiness for B3 seems to be pretty consistent while H3 has more of a spread even among just commercial versions. If we put in the prov, national to the fold it's just an equation with too many XYZ in it.
 
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I tink the question about hardness comparation important because i'm still searching the perfect degree of hurricane, atually that one 40° nacional BS is ON FIRE ... but to find another option, more cheaper and durable, is so important too.

The battle 3 rubber, does exist only the commercial version by the way ?
 
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