“Sealing effects performance”…. Is there any proof?

This user has no status.
Of all the endless table tennis debates, “seal vs no seal” has to take the grand prize for no clear answer. I’ve been reading for days and I still haven’t reached a conclusion as to whether I should seal my precious new blade.

Rather than sparking the same exact debate again, allow me to address it in a different way:

Science please. Has anyone ever performed a well-controlled test to verify whether or not sealing a blade affects performance? If so, please provide a link.

Thanks
 
This user has no status.
It makes the top ply slightly stiffer. You can easily test with a cheap blade and sealer. When I did it on a blade, the frequency went up by ~2%.
Thanks!

Can you please describe the blade you used and how you sealed the blade? What product, how many coats, etc.

What is the tolerance (accuracy) of your method of measuring the frequency? If it's less than +/- 2% that's quite accurate indeed. If it's greater than +/- 2% then your result is effectively "no difference".

Either way it's no difference. I can't imagine anyone would be able to feel a 2% difference.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jbvttcc and lodro
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
Member
Mar 2022
420
677
2,038
Haven't done a scientific study of it, but I do make blades for a living -- and absolutely sealing makes a difference (it stiffens the outers and speeds up the blade) but ithe degree depends hugely on the type of sealant, and it's thickness.

The three sealants I use most often are water-based polyurethane, oil-based polyurethane, and Osmo oil.

Water based poly has the least stiffening effect, oil-based poly has the most, Osmo is somewhere in the middle, but I really only use that on handles and edge grain, never on the playing surface.

A single thin coat of water-based poly (ie: wipe it on thin then wipe off any excess immediately) adds the least stiffness of all, and so long as you don't go nuts with removing the excess, this should be sufficient to protect the blade.

I only use oil-based poly when I actively *want* to thicken and stiffen the outer layers to get an extra bit more speed, and even then, I never put on a thick coat. At most, it's only one or two very thin coats.

With oil-based poly it's a lot safer to rub-off more of the excess, as it's considerably thicker and harder than water based poly (I find this to be true regardless of the brand). For this reason I will sometimes add two layers to a blade (the second later is thinned down with the tiniest hint of turpentine -- otherwise it's too thick).

As a side point, if you are going to use multiple coats of oil-based poly, you must *ALWAYS* rub the blade down between layers with semi-fine sand paper.

If you don't do this, as some oil-based polys tend to contract a bit as they dry, this can sometimes provide enough force to cup or warp the blade's playing surface. This is especially prone to happening if your blade's ply sandwich uses a lot of very low density woods and/or has a lower number of layers with transverse grain. (For this reason, if you're not particularly knowledgeable with wood finishes in general, it's actually far safer on the whole to just use one very thin coat of water based poly, and nothing else).

Hope this helps.
 
Last edited:
says One pound of practice is worth more than thousand pounds...
says One pound of practice is worth more than thousand pounds...
Active Member
Aug 2013
510
381
1,492
Read 3 reviews
I have Joola sealant to seal my blades. This is specifically for TT because it is very diluted and creates a thin layer on the blade. The idea as already mentioned above is not to overdo it. I prefer this approach - Seal the blade once, after 3-4 rubber changes do it again.
 
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
Member
Aug 2021
329
318
700
Read 1 reviews
Back in the 38 mm ball era, if you are using soft flexible 5-ply allwood blade, then sealing will affect the blade and you can surely feel it. That's why you have to seal it thinly. However, with hard fast allwood blade or composite, you don't really feel it (at least not for me, mere amateur). The key here is "seal it thinly".

The only 2 blades that I did not seal (to preserve the great feeling) is Nittaku Violin and Acoustic. But later on, I sealed my Acoustic and I can't really tell the difference now.

Now, in the WBG era, I suggest to seal every blade. To hell with decrease feeling. The blade costs too much now and you will regret it when it splinter. So just seal it and don't care if it feels a bit worse. Better safe than sorry.
 
says who?
says who?
Member
Aug 2019
328
249
758
The only 2 blades that I did not seal (to preserve the great feeling) is Nittaku Violin and Acoustic. But later on, I sealed my Acoustic and I can't really tell the difference now.

Now, in the WBG era, I suggest to seal every blade. To hell with decrease feeling. The blade costs too much now and you will regret it when it splinter. So just seal it and don't care if it feels a bit worse. Better safe than sorry.
This was my only concern as I just bought a new Acoustic from TT11 and had them seal it. The blade is known for its feeling and I didn’t want to affect that, but it’s also too expensive to risk damaging.

They did a great job sealing it as I can’t even tell there’s anything on it, aside from how easy it is to remove glue from the surface.

With said I guess we’ll never get any scientific imperial data lol.
 
says Making a beautiful shot is most important; winning is...
says Making a beautiful shot is most important; winning is...
🏆 Top 1% Commenter
Well-Known Member
Mar 2021
4,848
5,737
12,094
Of all the endless table tennis debates, “seal vs no seal” has to take the grand prize for no clear answer. I’ve been reading for days and I still haven’t reached a conclusion as to whether I should seal my precious new blade.

Rather than sparking the same exact debate again, allow me to address it in a different way:

Science please. Has anyone ever performed a well-controlled test to verify whether or not sealing a blade affects performance? If so, please provide a link.

Thanks
Friend, you are asking the wrong question. Instead, you should ask, "If I do not seal, what will happen to the outer veneer of my dear and beloved blade when I have to peel off my current rubber to change to a new one?"
 
This user has no status.
Friend, you are asking the wrong question. Instead, you should ask, "If I do not seal, what will happen to the outer veneer of my dear and beloved blade when I have to peel off my current rubber to change to a new one?"
Ok, but many people report not sealing and never having any problem with damaging the blade.... and now we're back to the same old endless debate :)
 
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
🏆 Top 1% Commenter
Well-Known Member
Jan 2021
3,922
2,876
8,105
Read 1 reviews
I always seal my blades, and if the wood is old, thin and brittle it is important. It’s also important if the rubber sits for a very long time. You may get away with it, but if the top layer is Limba, Hinoki or spruce I would recommend it.

Cheers
L-zr
 
says Making a beautiful shot is most important; winning is...
says Making a beautiful shot is most important; winning is...
🏆 Top 1% Commenter
Well-Known Member
Mar 2021
4,848
5,737
12,094
Ok, but many people report not sealing and never having any problem with damaging the blade.... and now we're back to the same old endless debate :)
I had bad experience, hence I seal everything.
 
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
Member
Aug 2021
329
318
700
Read 1 reviews
Good old hair spray as a compromise
I have actually done this. Long time ago, when I was still young and still think that sealing might affect the great allwood feeling, I used women hair spray. I asked the seller to give me the strongest hair spray available. When I sprayed it once to my blade, the white wood color became a bit yellowish. However, the feeling of the blade was not altered. So when I replaced my rubbers, I sprayed the blade once more. IIRC, I did it 3 times in total. The feeling of the blade was still the same but the color of the blade becomes darkish yellowish (looks like aging wood).

The good thing is my blade is intact (no splinter) when removing rubbers.
The secret is to choose the strongest hair spray available, the one Peggy Bundy used to make her hair stand up for hours. I don't know if they still make that kind of hair spray.

EDIT: If you know my reference to Peggy Bundy (thus knowing Al Bundy as well), then we are about the same age. :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
 
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
Member
Jul 2023
205
23
242
I always seal my blades, and if the wood is old, thin and brittle it is important. It’s also important if the rubber sits for a very long time. You may get away with it, but if the top layer is Limba, Hinoki or spruce I would recommend it.

Cheers
L-zr
I had bad experience, hence I seal everything.
What sealers do you guys recommend? Is revolution 3 sealer any good?
 
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
🏆 Top 1% Commenter
Well-Known Member
Jan 2021
3,922
2,876
8,105
Read 1 reviews
What sealers do you guys recommend? Is revolution 3 sealer any good?
I use old fashioned varnish. I don’t think it matters. Just make sure it’s a thin layer, and always rough it it up s little bit afterwards with a fine sandpaper to make the glue grab better.

Cheers
L-zr
 
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
🏆 Top 1% Commenter
Well-Known Member
Sep 2013
13,139
15,420
36,968
Read 3 reviews
sealing - will change the feel, as many said, stiffen.
the solution is to make sure you use a light/thin layer, most tt brands have them, and those are water based.
the issue of rubbers not sticking - just use sand paper to add some pores for the glue to soak in and that is fine.

not sealing - risk of glue that rips off plies. This is because of certain plies, and possible old glue or bad glue. I have seen some old glue that gone so sticky, that I am almost certain, it will kill plies with ease (just too sticky and even difficult to remove the rubber)

for pros or semi pros, they change blades fast enough, so many don't seal. many also told me they hate the feeling of it.
for amateurs, i would suggest sealing, but personally, I don't do it and leave that to customs own risk.
 
Last edited:
This user has no status.
This user has no status.
🏆 Top 1% Commenter
Well-Known Member
Jan 2021
3,922
2,876
8,105
Read 1 reviews
Thanks!

Can you please describe the blade you used and how you sealed the blade? What product, how many coats, etc.

What is the tolerance (accuracy) of your method of measuring the frequency? If it's less than +/- 2% that's quite accurate indeed. If it's greater than +/- 2% then your result is effectively "no difference".

Either way it's no difference. I can't imagine anyone would be able to feel a 2% difference.
I’m making an experiment, I’m using raw linseed oil only on one blade no varnish. This is much better for the wood but possibly it will change the properties more, we shall see. I used this a lot on boats for wood preservation.

Cheers
L-zr
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tony's Table Tennis
Top