Fish scale. How much would be the price of this blade?

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It's arguably a manufacturing defect or error that lowers the performance of the blade, but people pay extra for it, so it depends if you're more or less honest.
Who said that it is a manufacturing defect / error and why would it lower the performance? The fish scale pattern is the result of the so-called medullary rays that get exposed because these plies are cut differently (quarter sawn) compared to most other plies, which are cut longitudinally. That's it. These plies are supposed to be a little harder than regular plies of the same wood. But that could only be a fancy rumour.
@fajrihaimi
As for the price for this kind of blade: Take the regular retail price and add maybe 10 - 20 $; that's what a "reasonable" collector might be willing to pay.
On a side note: I cannot understand why people do not cover the serial number for Butterfly blades. Shady companies that produce counterfeits are obviously on the look out for genuine serial numbers, because they can then use them for their counterfeit blades and in the process fool potential customers into buying it...
 
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Who said that it is a manufacturing defect / error and why would it lower the performance? The fish scale pattern is the result of the so-called medullary rays that get exposed because these plies are cut differently (quarter sawn) compared to most other plies, which are cut longitudinally. That's it. These plies are supposed to be a little harder than regular plies of the same wood. But that could only be a fancy rumour.
@fajrihaimi
As for the price for this kind of blade: Take the regular retail price and add maybe 10 - 20 $; that's what a "reasonable" collector might be willing to pay.
On a side note: I cannot understand why people do not cover the serial number for Butterfly blades. Shady companies that produce counterfeits are obviously on the look out for genuine serial numbers, because they can then use them for their counterfeit blades and in the process fool potential customers into buying it...
It's more flexible and less elastic and the design spec for flexibility in the different axes gets thrown way off. Generally you'd say that's lower performance. It does have some wear and fatigue benefits over time at least in theory.

Of course this doesn't matter that much in a laminated ply blade and it's probably fine but I doubt it'd be ever selected for performance.
 
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Who said that it is a manufacturing defect / error and why would it lower the performance? The fish scale pattern is the result of the so-called medullary rays that get exposed because these plies are cut differently (quarter sawn) compared to most other plies, which are cut longitudinally. That's it. These plies are supposed to be a little harder than regular plies of the same wood. But that could only be a fancy rumour.
@fajrihaimi
As for the price for this kind of blade: Take the regular retail price and add maybe 10 - 20 $; that's what a "reasonable" collector might be willing to pay.
On a side note: I cannot understand why people do not cover the serial number for Butterfly blades. Shady companies that produce counterfeits are obviously on the look out for genuine serial numbers, because they can then use them for their counterfeit blades and in the process fool potential customers into buying it...

Don't buy blade without original box with matching serial number and you never will be fooled
 
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The fish scale pattern is the result of the so-called medullary rays that get exposed because these plies are cut differently (quarter sawn) compared to most other plies, which are cut longitudinally. That's it. These plies are supposed to be a little harder than regular plies of the same wood. But that could only be a fancy rumour.
This is a common misconception, which, as far as I can tell, originated on this forum or another one like it.

A wooden board is most dimensionally stable when it is cut perfectly perpendicular to the growth rings of the tree it comes from. Quarter-sawing is a milling method to produce boards cut roughly perpendicular to the growth rings. It is rarely exactly perpendicular because of the geometry and irregular growth of trees, and it can occasionally be quite far off from 90 degrees.

Every wood ply used in reputable manufactured blades is quarter-sawn, in the sense that it comes from some quarter-sawing process intended to produce perpendicularly cut boards. But when a piece of wood happens to be cut at a very oblique angle to the growth rings, and for certain kinds of wood (like koto), it can have a “fish scale” like appearance. This is a tell-tale sign that the wood has been cut at a sharp angle relative to the growth rings, which you can also tell visually by the growth ring lines being relatively far apart (or by looking at the end grain of the ply). This piece of wood is less dimensionally stable and less durable than if it had been cut perpendicular to the growth rings.

What this means for the performance of a particular table tennis blade is unclear. It could still be a high-quality blade for other reasons. In my experience fish scale blades have a greater tendency to be duds (very soft or hollow feeling) and also more fragile, since the fish scale wood chips more easily. I personally avoid buying them.
 
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ZJK never played fishscale, if BTY sent him a blade with fishscale, he wouldn't bother trying it. Fishscale is not uniform. He wants all his blades to be have consistent light colored wood. Also good info on other blade myths.

 
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I have fishscale blade on FZD, it had much better feeling than a friends non fish scale blade, for some reason his lacked power . So I think each blade can be slightly different- depending on weight, density, thickness etc
 
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