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Yasaka Rigan Spin. You're welcome. Slightly slower than Rakza 7, but not by much.... Put some more power behind it and it does just fine. It's got softer sponge so it's really light, and the spin levels are just nuts... I mean genuine G1 / Dignics level spin! It's one of the most underrated...

That's some really great content Sergio - honestly can't think of anything of note which you haven't already covered . :):) Extra kudos for mentioning stabilized wood by the way :cool: (y) I don't use the stuff much either, largely due to its weight (and also due to the fact I have far too many...

A good rubber cleaner is your best bet, along with keeping your blade handle clean and/or washing your hands before playing. I know that last one sounds odd and does nothing about oxidation. I only mention it because I constantly see significant rubber wear in this particular area on the...

As a recent convert to Tenergy 19, I can also vouch for its somewhat Dignics-like qualities. With 1.9mm sponge, the T19 is a brilliant BH rubber - fast, spinny and brilliant at punchy rocket like BH returns :devilish: That being said, please note all my personal blades feature a variety of...

Loki Telson 100 Hyper is a pretty good heavy backhand rubber. Plays a fair bit like a Tenergy 05 hard, has a cut weight of around 50-53 grams, and is an absolute bargain for the money. Highly recommended.

This is too true to be funny. 😂😂😂 But hey, at least he's doing the right thing by checking the end grain... If he were checking the planed outer surface I'd be truly worried. 😂 I very much doubt however that he's going to see a damn thing of note with that eyepiece however ☺️

Did the outers tear, did the timber lose splinters due to impact damage, or did the outers have fibers lift due to cohesive failure of the surrounding lignin? 🤨 If it's the latter, then something is decidedly up with that, because at the risk of repeating myself, to the very best of my current...

Wow - that's interesting 🤔 I'm genuinely surprised at the idea of a hinoki outer blade losing fibers -- because seriously, hinoki simply *does not have fibers* -- no softwoods do! Therefore, I think what you're looking at there is a manufactured veneer... Either that or it's some sort of...

Some woods are just prone to this kind of stuff unfortunately, limba being a prime example (most other softer, spinny hardwoods have the same problem). . If you *don't* seal the blade properly It's pretty hard to stop it happening. If it happens to you a lot with different blades then I would...

Certainly that was the case a couple of years ago. I find however that Loki's QA has been improving over the last 6-9 months... I've been perfectly happy with their quality for quite a while now. (Mind you, in saying that, please note that I only buy all my Loki rubbers direct from the...

The R9 in 40.5 degrees is a cracker of a rubber for the money... Not hugely hard though 😎

H3 in 42 degrees is the only one that springs to mind. 🤔 The Xiom Tau 2 is hugely tacky and is a great rubber frankly, but isn't that hard. The original Friendship 729 also fits the bill but nobody really plays with it anymore -- The Friendship 729 Super FX is also pretty damn hard, but not...

Yeah that sounds like Grey Ironbark all right... Especially the weight! Iron bark has an average density of over 1100kg per cubic metre, and a Janka hardness rating of about 17.5 to 18.0kN -- this makes it harder, heavier and faster than Macassar Ebony! You should see people trying to machine...

Is that outer ply made from Grey Ironbark? 🙂 If so, that stuff is so strong you could probably have left out the carbon. There's two prevailing theories about ironbark amongst Aussie woodworkers: • half of them think it's a tree pretending to be a rock, • and the other half think it's a rock...

Couldn't be the glue, unless Xiom takes a very liberal interpretation of the words 'traditional', 'instrument' and 'glue'. Traditionally, luthiers used either hard hide glue or else some other protein-based glue. Main reason being, hide glue is fully reversible with the application of heat and...

...and replied! ☺️☺️

Myself I use Osmo Polyx Original -- it's a blend of natural semi-drying oils, plant-based waxes, plus a bit of beeswax, with a tiny bit of white spirit added to homogenise the mix. It's a bloody expensive product but it's really good stuff... Highly recommended.

Yeah spot on re: Osmo. One layer is all I ever use , and does the job well. If you re-glue your rubbers a lot them I find you sometimes need to re-apply nother single coat after about 6-9 months, but it varies depending on the rubber glue you use.

I know where you're coming from with that, but I'm sorry to inform you... that's actually a common misconception. :confused: The whole "level and flat" thing comes from Rule 2.4.1 and a lot of folks just stop reading there. When describing the make-up and construction of a blade at Rule 2.4.4...

Very much doubt it's a deliberate feature of the blade, as that would put it in breach of ITTF regulations. Under regs, blade panels have to be of one even thickness all the way through. 🤨 A deliberate 0.4mm variance repeated through every mass produced blade would make it both an illegal...