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I'm making some blades for a friend of Der_Echte and he is mainly interested in combination blades with drastically different properties on each side - it's a tough to create a blade with dissimilar playing properties on each side while also making sure to create a stable piece of wood. I've...

Hey Robert! I was looking through your thread today for information on whether other blade builders use a "climb-cut" on their router (i.e., going clock-wise with the direction of the cutter-head) to get smoother edges on their blades - I found the information I was looking for. I don't know if...

I can definitely do that! I'll reach out through PM to verify all the specifications...and you're right - I'll need to restock on kiri and veneer woods, so it might take a week longer than usual to get those blades to you. I'm thrilled you like my blades enough to own so many!

I'm glad he loved it! That combination of Koto-outer over a thick European larch medial ply is one of my all time personal favorites for blade feel. It's crisp and the vibrations seem to dampen quickly. Just let me know if/when you want any more blades!

Do you (and your customers) generally have a preference between hide-glue and polyurethane glues? I've been experimenting with hide glue during this coronavirus time period and find it very pleasant to clean up (compared to poly-glue, especially), though the long dry time is less ideal, and the...

I use a hair-dryer to speed up my gluing process, otherwise it takes revolution no. 3 about 15-20 minutes per layer in my high-humidity climate before I can apply the next layer. I use the lower-speed, lower-heat setting and haven't experienced any negatives.

I'm always happy to try and meet someone's table-tennis related needs (and, as a researcher by trade, I do love experimenting)! Hybrid/combination blades are such an interesting thing - I don't think it's possible to create a single blade with two completely unique feeling sides (i.e., they are...

Three new quarantine-era blades: Blade 1: My goal was to try and improve upon the relatively soft/dull feel of the redwood by placing koto directly next to the core. Composition: Koto-Spruce-Koto-Redwood(core)-Koto-Spruce-Koto Handle: Walnut-WesternRedCedar-BigLeafMaple-Walnut Weight: 93 grams...

I love it! I'm glad you're getting a chance to really try them out. It sounds like the limba-outer blade is a good fit for the rubbers you selected and for the way you play. It's interesting that they blades are losing weight this many weeks after they were built.

Sounds great! I wonder if that Koto-outer blade is just too thin overall to give you the same top-end as the limba blades. The kiri-core was only 1.7mm thick in the koto outer blade.

Thanks for the wonderfully detailed account of how it played for you! I'm hoping the ones not impacted by the "Chernobyl gluing accident" play even better!

I hear what you're saying - it sounds as if the longer handle is too stable and doesn't give you the fulcrum/pivot that you really use to generate the spin and power. Side note: I still can't believe how large your "pawz" are - when I held those blades with the longer handles you requested, a...

Interesting! The "factory second" is certainly the heaviest in terms of actual weight and the handles on all 3 that I sent are approximately the same weight, contour, and thickness (cut from the exact same woods I glued together); however, because the "factory second" blade is over 7mm thick...

Simon: 11, Dan: 3

I built an interesting 5-ply recently. The neatest feature of this blade (in my opinion) is that every single piece of wood came from trees cut within 20 miles of my house. Composition: Port Orford Cedar - Redwood - Western Red Cedar - Redwood - Port Orford Cedar. Handle: Walnut and Maple...

Awesome stuff! Very clean edges and sharp lines. That satin-walnut one looks unreal because of how clean and pure it is (it almost looks like a CAD rendering).

I agree with you - it's only a little heavier than typical Ayous; however, I find that anything heavier than Ayous really starts to dictate other properties of the blade if I want to keep it under a certain weight. For example, not being able to make it as thick, being selective about using...

I have not tried soaking them all the way through, though the way kiri eats up polyurethane finish would lead me to believe you could easily soak the core before gluing the veneers on. Any ideas what that would feel like to play with? I wonder if something like "minwax wood hardener" (or "cactus...

Hi lasta, You are correct! I sand the edges to 400 grit on my belt sander and then give them a coating of polyurethane finish. This particular piece of kiri was a bit darker than my usual pieces, so it ended up looking more exotic.

2 new blades finished up for a forum member...they're a bit heavier than typical blades because of the oversized handles. Blade 1: Composition: Koto - European Larch - Lutz Spruce - Kiri (core) - Lutz Spruce - European Larch - Koto Handle: Walnut - Big Leaf Maple - Walnut Properties: 5.85 mm...