Search results

Vega Pro is a step-up in hardness from Vega Europe (I love it as an all-around rubber). I find Rakza 7 to feel a little harder than Vega Pro, and a small step up in terms of spin sensitivity over Vega Pro. If you want a step beyond that, Fastarc G1 feels quite hard to me with similar properties...

Welcome to the club. I don't think you should worry too much about the aesthetics, since it will be covered up by rubber anyway. Personally, I love the uniqueness of every piece of black limba.

I've used acetone to successfully remove old glue from a butterfly blade that had rubber on it for 14 years - the only consequence was it took off some/all of the printed ink on the blade surface (it appears that is not a concern with the blade you have in the picture). Acetone gets my vote!

I just finished up another series of blades. I've been trying to use up my materials so I can store them as completed blades - that way I can spend more of my time actually playing as opposed to testing all of the blades I've made. In this final series, all of these blades have compositions I...

One of my all time favorites: Vega Pro!

That looks INCREDIBLE! I really like the clean work, beautiful handle, and choice of wood grain. If one blade comes back and you do a give-away...I would love to be entered to win (and would be happy to pay shipping to the US if I were selected as winner).

Based on all of the rubbers you have tried and the characteristics you have mentioned, I find Vega Pro to be a softer FEELING rubber than Rakza 7 or Fastarc G1 and would be a rubber worth looking into.

Inexpensive: Palio AK47 Red. Not a ton of grip for spin, but blisteringly fast on a carbon blade I made with Koto outer, ALC, and Spruce medial plies. More expensive (and ones I have lots of experience with): Omega V Tour, MXP I'm sure there are faster, but these are the fastest I've tried...

Those are incredible. I really love the layering of the mostly WRC blade, but the burned Koto blade is probably my favorite of the bunch.

Thanks, Ranger-man! If you want to read more interesting bits about how those last two blades were constructed (and see their photos), check out the last couple pages of the "Questions for Blade Builders" thread. My blades have come a long way since these first couple blades that Der_Echte...

I agree with Vik2000's suggestion - my MX-P took a couple weeks to break in. At first, the topsheet felt slippery and didn't have much grip, but now it's really great and lets me pick heavy underspin off the table with my backhand flick. On FH, I find MX-P harder to control than Fastarc G-1...

I realize the limitation of having a single data point (one opportunity to play with H3 so far), but the main premise is still true - unboosted H3 isn't nearly as worthless as people claim it to be. That's all I'm claiming from my experience thus far. Of course many of the newer rubbers are...

Premise: Up until today, I had only used European/Japanese style rubbers (i.e., mechanically grippy, some type of springy/"tensioned" sponge, etc). I steered clear of anything considered a classic/typical tacky Chinese rubber (i.e., hard sponge, tacky surface, etc) for over 10 years because...

1. I absolutely love table tennis and am an active (and constructive) member of these forums. 2. I would love to write an honest, detailed review. My experience with making a variety of unique blades would lend itself nicely to describing the blade's aesthetic properties, as well as feel in...

That sounds amazing - I would love to make little instruments (i.e., ukuleles, mandolins, violins), but I have no idea how to build those so they're structurally sound as to support all of the string tension. Keep us posted!

Those are amazing! Blade 2 is the most aesthetically pleasing to me, but blades 4 and 5 are tied for a close second in the looks department AND would fit my play-style perfectly. Amazing work. I hope you'll show off some of your instrument work in the off-topic threads!

Thanks for the suggestion, but I already have the blade options made that I listed above - I don't want to make another one just for these rubbers. Should I go harder outer veneer with ALC underneath, or, all-wood... for unboosted H3 rubbers?

Thanks, Alan! Those balsa edges are clean...for now! I am able to get the smooth balsa edges to soak in 2 coats of polyurethane before it starts to build up and start bulging out (undesirable, so I only do 2 coats), but I do not think that makes them durable enough for players who hit the edge...

About my play: I've been playing table tennis for about 15 years, but took a long break in the middle (about 10 years off) and have been playing again for almost a year. I'm approximately USATT 1600, and the things holding my rating back are mostly my serves and general game sense/strategy. I...

I made a blade for one of the older women (she's in her 80s) I play with a couple times a week. My goals with this blade were: 1) Light-weight - It's 65 grams 2) Aesthetically Pleasing 3) Using Oregon Woods for the Handle - Giant Chinkapin and Red Alder 4) Has few "balsa characteristics" (even...