Search results

Thanks for the review! I'm very interested in trying it out myself. Would you say it shares any similarities to Xiom Omega V Tour?

Was that the Koto-Koto-Kiri with Ipe handle? If so, that one has a really light blade face (All+ is a generous rating) to create an insane handle-heavy balance. I hope he likes it...I think my blade making has come a long way from that time period when I built that one!

I have been trying to build the ideal blade for myself, but since I still can't test any out (due to COVID19), my collection continues to grow... Composition: Koto - AYC - AYC - WRC - AYC - AYC - Koto. [AYC = Alaskan Yellow Cedar. WRC = Western Red Cedar] Handle: Walnut - Big Leaf Maple - WRC...

Thanks for the kind words, UpSideDownCarl! I gave Der_ a blade a couple years back with solid Ipe handles - the handles alone weighed around 45 grams...but even that didn't slow him down! I should see how far I can push it next time (i.e., tell him it's 100 grams, but toss in some Ipe, Lignum...

Two blades I put together recently - just building a stock-pile of blades until I can get back out there and test them... Blade 1 (ultra-light): Composition: Spruce-Spruce-Redwood-Spruce-Spruce Handle (flared): WRC-AYC-WRC-AYC-WRC (WRC = Western Red Cedar, AYC - Alaskan Yellow Cedar)...

1. You got it! I hope you like it and it serves you well. 2. No wonder you asked for such a large handle - you have giant hands! 3. I like how you've posted a picture of the blade in front of the photo I posted on the forum - glad to know there were no catfishing attempts (or USPS replacing it...

Finished up this custom blade for Der_Echte: 7-Ply Composition (152mm W x 158mm L x 6.8mm H): Limba-Spruce-Spruce-Redwood-Spruce-Spruce-Limba Handle (28.5mm W x 110mm L x 26mm H): Walnut-Western Red Cedar-Walnut Weight: 98 grams (not too shabby considering the monster-sized-handle) <iframe...

Der_Echte, What are your ideal straight-handle dimensions? I built a thick, round, straight handle for that blade for George a year ago or so ago and I remember you liked it quite a bit, but I can't remember the exact width and height. If I used something lighter than solid-walnut for the...

After running out of veneer-woods last year (and encountering some health issues), I decided to take a break from making blades. Additionally, I was having trouble sourcing solid pieces of Kiri/Ayous for core-woods. With quarantine taking away my time to actually play table tennis, I figured I...

I used Free Chack on my blades/rubbers 15 years ago when I started playing, but then took an 11 year break - when I went to take the old rubber sheets off, the glue had become an absolute sticky mess and permeated into the wood of my butterfly blades. It was a nightmare to clean up. Thinking...

That's good news! How did the email conversation go? Any indication they would prevent it if someone else did that in the future? I would really like to pick up some tenergy 05 for that price! I've only bought one sheet in my history, and it was $50 when it first came out (or I got a promotion...

Up for sale are two fully assembled paddles, using blades that I've made - feel free to ask questions or check previous posts of mine for typical build properties: Blade 1, $60 OBO (includes H3 rubber, shipping to US, and Paypal Fees): Composition: Koto (outer), Lutz Spruce (medial), Kiri...

Here are my recent EJ experiences: Blade: If you like control and feel, stick with 5-ply (or perhaps 7-ply) all wood. Get something sexy - Nittaku Acoustic or OSP variant (I have the Virtuoso + and think it's marvelous). They're fast (not as fast as a carbon variant), but rarely suffer from...

I was built to play with heavy top-spin players. I can counter-loop until my legs fall off and have no problem moving to the ball. I was NOT built to play with players who take all speed or spin out of the ball on each hit...so I'm forced to try and add power to a dead/slight-backspin ball...

To echo what many others have said: 1) If good players are within 22 miles, that might be worth travelling to. My nearest club with decent players is 130 miles away, and a great club is 254 miles away. In my current situation, I would literally be willing to bicycle 3 days a week to a club...

I agree fully - when I started making blades, to keep all other factors the same I was putting vega pro on one side, rakza 7 on the other. Unfortunately, this is when my curiosity got the best of me and I acquired 1 or 2 sheets of those others. Like an idiot, I've only put Fastarc G-1 on harder...

Good idea - I should store them in some inconvenient place! I've thought about this - it would really help if I only had one or two to worry about... I think G1 on it would be amazing, or on the Limba-Limba-WRC I have...but then I'd still have 4 nice blade variations! I wouldn't want to...

Explanation of Issue: As a function of making blades (which I have mostly stopped doing, due to EJ-related issues associated with always having new things to test), I have had the opportunity to try out so many different blade styles and combinations. I bought quite a few rubber sheets for...

I think it's because sponge-thickness beyond 2.0 is harmful for both the play and development for the vast majority of players. Just because it's not 2.1/2.2 does not mean it lacks speed or power - the sponge is pretty hard and would take great technique to bottom out regularly anyway.

Fan Zhendong stomped everyone...but he looked particularly aggressive toward Liang Jingkun. This was amazing to watch.