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I was wondering if booster is a plasticizer and has little to do with being a liquid or gas in it's operation. Does anyone know the actual chemical composition of the popular boosters like Falco Tempo Long or Haifu Seamoon?

Only he can know after he tries it. How does it make sense you're asking folks here whether it's too fast for him.

Those modern medium hard rubbers like the XIOM Vega Intro will be more suitable for the plastic ball due to it's medium hardness and spin capability than the overpriced 50 year old rubbers like Mark V and Sriver. Don't let the Mark V cultists brainwash you.

Unless your current blade is damaged or you want to try a new blade, all you need to do is replace the rubbers. The game has changed especially due to the current 40mm plastic ball. You probably don't want old rubbers like Sriver or Mark V. XIOM Vega Intro MAX on both FH and BH would be a good...

My suggestion is Xiom Vega Intro on both sides. Assuming that turbozed's setup is Yasaka Sweden Extra with XVI and Mercury, I have tried it and think the Mercury is just way too slow and the XIOM Vega Intro is just right. Heya, turbozed if that's you I played with at the local league.

I may be out of the loop but is someone claiming Lee Sang Soo is washed up? That's a pretty rude claim whether there is any merit in it and probably from someone who has no appreciation of how hard it is to be playing at Lee Sang Soo's level.

Stick with the HL5. For me at least it has better control than the Garaydia ZLC and other outer ALC blades especially for short games . If you are doing counters with your backhand, you may find a harder rubber of at least 47 degrees ESN scale would be more suitable.

How does one tell the difference between a provincial W968 and a commercial Long 5? From what little I know, a w968 has a different sticker on the box and code on the handle. AFAIK, the notable difference between a w968 and Long 5 is the larger head and handle size in the w968. Do these have...

tabletennis11 does not sell fakes. It is possible for H3 to lose/reduce its initial tackiness. Some players even prefer that it gets less tacky after playing it in.

Most good ammonia diluted latex based glues will form a thin stretchy layer on the sponge you can peel off with your finger, It may stretch and break after a bit of pulling but you just find the edge and try again till it's all gone. Not the fastest way but it's safer. The fast way is to use a...

A word to the thick Seoul sistas, I want to get with ya I won't cuss or hit ya But I gotta be straight when I say I wanna pong 'Til the break of dawn Baby got it goin' on

Maybe my G1 had aged out even though the topsheet looked brand new as it was reverse domed when I removed it but in the cold unheated club I was playing at, the Hammond Z2 I tried felt a bit softer and had more reliable spin on the backhand close to the table. Might be time to pay the piper and...

Is your coach actually helping you win at matches or just drilling with strokes? Is he/are you analyzing the videos of your matches to figure out what is going on? Are you using equipment too fast or unsuitable for your style of play? Are you playing like you are training, i'e putting the...

Well I do have one complaint about DHS and it's about the availability of the Long 5 blade. You either have to order it from some Chinese website and hope you don't get a counterfeit or pay an exorbitant $250 for one as tabletennis11 is all out and have been for a long time.

It's not too late do treat your current blade. Cosmetics aside, you can clean up the handle as best you can to remove old sweat, let it dry and then treat the handle with the Danish Oil so that it does not get sweat soaked anymore.

I'm sure you have club mates with various types of blades you can ask to try out to see if they feel right to you. TBS will be a quite a huge difference to your current blade. A fancier 5 ply, perhaps something from OSP or an inner fiber that is claimed to be for those switching from all wood...

I don't think Rozena is especially heavy considering the weight of latest hard offensive rubbers today. Did you specify the weight range of your FZD ALC when you bought it? If more offensive capabilities was what you wanted, perhaps the better option was to keep using your Korbel and upgrading...

One or two thin layers of Minwax Wipe On Poly for the blade face and Watco Danish Oil (or whatever BLO with drying additives available) for the handle. Do not mix the two. The wipe on poly is the right thing to use to seal blade faces, not the BLO.

Mark V HPS is a marked improvement over the original Mark V, but never let the Mark V worshippers claim Mark V is suitable for modern offensive techniques. Rakza 7 would be the minimum I would recommend if you want to attack those underspin BH balls with loops and flicks. H3N provincial isn't...

If the dirt is ground in, there is only so much you can do. You can try bleach or scrub it with some other cleaner, rinse and wipe the handle dry but prevention is better than cure. Next time treat the handle with something like Watco's Danish Oil which is a boiled linseed oil with drying...