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Blisters in socked feet are generally caused by sweat softening the skin so much that friction causes it to come apart. Use olefin socks like Drymax that pull moisture away from the skin to reduce the chances of blisters. If you are playing on sports flooring, barefoot shoes are the best type of...

In true EJ fashion, the only way to answer the question is to pony up and get yourself at least one sheet of the rubber to try it out. If that does not work out, it may be your coach has the one true Donic all-round super blade. He could have selected a very good one and there are few others are...

Yup, camera doesn't lie. If you can analyze games, a video of your match will tell you right away what the issue is. Whether it is service receive, footwork, timing, shot selection or placement, it all comes out on video.

You can try to adjust your technique to take advantage of the extra speed by simply experimenting and closing the angle of the blade when you do your full stroke, Now suddenly you have a fast AND spinny ball that dips down into the table. Win Win.

Another option is to change the rubber to something with better control/less sensitive to incoming spin. Probably cheaper in the long run than getting a different blade.

They do, or used to sell that nasty toloune or xylene or whatever nasty stuff is used to dilute rubber cement separately so you can keep rethinning rubber cement. That would be the way to do it if good ole rubber cement is the way you roll.

In my experience Copydex is better than Tearmender. I've had bad batches of Tearmender and have had only success with Copydex. You don't need table tennis specific water based latex glues. That's just marketing and you can actually get worst quality depending on who/where those TT companies...

It's not simply the serves that is getting him points. It's the fact that he is playing pips and can exploit the short returns he gets with a fast off the bounce return with angles and dead spin.

Alternatively, you can join the dark side and push block with OX LP and other "junk" rubbers or have a more tactical, less offensive/power oriented style of play. You'd still be able to win at the lower levels and not have to stay too far from the table or loop. Maybe table tennis groupies won't...

Alternatively, you can join the dark side and start playing chop blocking with long pips OX or anti for some of that sweet low effort points. It may limit your maximum level to some extent but if you're in this for fun and not to be an olympian and represent your country, why not? You may find...

Rubber cement is what people used before ITTF banned VOC based glues. Rubber cement also makes removing the rubber cleanly from the blade easier as water based rubber glues tend to adhere stronger to top veneers. Water based glues can and will pull and splinter the top limba veneer of blades...

Traditional tacky rubbers like the Hurricane rubbers tend to be slower than tensor rubbers but they do have some amazing spin capabilities if you have the technique. It is not alway hitting through the ball with tacky rubber, Thin high speed contact with tacky rubbers can also produce some very...

The video show him doing different types of spins with very similar motions, The difference is subtle and happens right before the ball contact. It's in how the final presentation of the face of the blade to the ball happens. It looks like you only managed to copy the no spin variant.

That is unusual. Were you playing 38mm celluloid balls when said failure to drive/power topspin happened? What rubber were you using? I tried the Sardius as well with Rakza X and had no issues with drive or topspin when using it with an ABS 40+ Nittaku ball. The Sardius is maybe slightly faster...

Equipment Junkie. There is no real cure, only remission. That happens when you've surveyed the field of possibilities and found something you like and until the next new truly innovative gear breakthrough comes along.

It has a limba top and will benefit from lacquering. A proper thin layer of lacquer will have no effect on feel.

The hyped up price for a Chinese blade and the very apparent non-linearity of the blade may be a turn off for many people.

The Nittaku Fastarc G-1 is quite popular and is a reliable rubber. It's a bit slower than the MX-P but has better spin and control in my opinion.

Trichloroethylene eh? Sounds like its straight up VOC rubber cement. If you freshly glued and the VOC has not completely evaporated and the competition you are in checks with thos high tech sniffing devices, you could be in trouble but if not most won't care. If you are gluing right before...

XIOM Tau II for the FH and Andro Hexer Powergrip for the backhand. My first time playing using the Tau II and it is a revelation how responsive a hard sponge can be. I see now why these types of rubber/boosted H3 are getting more popular for FH.