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If you have small hands then maybe Acoustic will work out for you. If you want a light blade, then I have a 79g Acoustic in like-new condition I can sell you for the price of a new Falcima. Only catch is you'll have to wait about a month until I get back to North America.

If you want best value for your money: Sanwei Fextra 7, Yinhe U2, or Sword Day Break If you want to pay a little bit more for non-Chinese brands with little to no difference in quality: Tibhar Stratus Powerwood, Tibhar Samsonov Force Pro Blue, Xiom Offensive S I wouldn't get an Acoustic...

I'm actually using the Blue as a FH rubber even though I originally wanted to use it as a BH based on WRM recommendation. It's quite hard at 52d on the durometer. I'll be back in California later next month so maybe you can try it out yourself. Cheers

Check out this French page and translate it to English: https://butterflyfrance.com/bois-ovtcharov-s1-s2/ The blade is super thin at 5.0mm and has an oversized head. The recommended rubbers are all slow, defensive, or anti. So they look like they were designed to be defense or for all around...

Ive started to think of rackets in terms of cars too, but my thinking is the opposite of yours. The player is the engine. The blade and rubber is only the drivetrain and transmission. A fast setup doesn't generate power, it just transmits power. So a super fast setup is like a light chassis...

This is a question I've thought long and hard about since I started out on All+ 5 ply blades on forum recommendations and eventually finding my way to a faster 7 ply (played with Nittaku Acoustic and Yasaka Sweden Extra before settling on Sanwei Fextra). To me, the Fextra with slower rubber...

Have you tried Loki Rxton 3 Blue/Pink? It has that same snap, crackle, and pop that you describe compared to the other Chinese rubbers I've played with (I've tried Rxton 1, Rxton 5, Jupiter 3, and Battle 2 Pro so far). I'm trying to develop a full Chinese style FH stroke so the Battle 2's...

I just beat Sekiro yesterday and now considering buying Street Fighter 6

Yeah it has carbon layers and the outer layers are also very hard wood. This does not fit the description of what you want. It's several levels harder and faster than your Primorac. You have a dozen or more very good candidates in this thread. See if you can try one out or give us some more...

I play with a Fextra and am trying to understand your reasoning of getting 40d instead of 39d for it. What are the drawbacks of a softer H3 (39d should be around 51d ESN) with the softer outer layers of the Fextra? Would it be too bouncy or have too little bite for a FH shot?

Nittaku Ludeack is another blade to consider now that I think about it. It should be a step faster than Primorac, and is reknown for its control. Build quality and finish should be on par with Butterfly. Here's a link to the TT11 review of the Ludeack series...

No clue. Maybe there's something about the sponge where it softens up considerably with baby oil (I applied a total of 3 light layers). I'll have to get a fresh sheet of it to see what it measures out of the package. The 39d Battle 2 Pro (orange sponge) that is replacing it measures 51d, which...

I ended up taking off the Rxton 5 from my blade to measure the hardness since it was feeling a bit soft. It measured 48d Shore O from the topsheet and 47.5 Shore O from the sponge. This is surprising to me since the sponge originally felt super hard to begin with. I did put 3 layers of baby oil...

This is good list. I'll also add: Tibhar Stratus Powerwood Nittaku S5 Yinhe PD 437 Xiom Solo All of the above I have on the list to try out as a potential replacement for my Fextras. I did just purchase a Sanwei V5 Pro on impulse as they are becoming unavailable on Aliexpress and I found a...

Incidentally, in the two videos I posted in this thread here https://www.tabletennisdaily.com/forum/topics/armature-fh-stroke-difference-between-tacky-and-non-tacky-rubbers.28713/post-403158 , both coaches do mention that the advanced "type 3" FH is hard to achieve with bouncy tension rubber...

This EJ thread is getting more and more expensive by the day. Going to have to visiting it or else I might be tempted to buy something ridiculous like a Nittaku Eto or Risoud.

I boosted Mercury 2 (with baby oil) and that thing became very fast and spinny. I've only played with maybe 5 different FH rubbers so far but boosted M2 felt like it produced the most dangerous shots (with my beginner form at least). The problem was that the topsheet seemed to weaken and it the...

Donic needs to release a blade called "Donic Boom" We've waited too long for it.

Could just be that your new sheet of D09c on the FZD has more tack to it than an older sheet of D09c.

Just to add some info about Jupiter 3 hardness, my 38d sheet measured 51d from the topsheet and 50d from the sponge using the Shore O durometer.