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And now the secret is out, you ruined it!!! :eek::cool:

Yasaka Mark V, Butterfly Sriver, Donic Coppa are all quite insensitive to spin and decent all-round rubber to keep the ball in play. Most brands would have something similar.

I didn't think that was available anymore, and I don't think it's ITTF approved anymore either. Nothing wrong with trying it anyway, but just making sure you're aware :)

My thoughts exactly. Any of them will pair very nicely with the Viscaria, so it's much more important to pick the ones that suit your style and level, rather than those that suit the blade.

There's no evidence that this is intentional, so it's really no different to any other rubber that loses friction over time. All are covered under the same rule: 2.4.7.1 Slight deviations from continuity of surface or uniformity of colour due to accidental damage or wear may be allowed provided...

It can be a tough and thankless job being a moderator sometimes... you're damned if you don't act, and damned if you do. o_O

Wishing you a speedy recovery!

That will very interesting, and indeed very useful for others that might consider this, thank you!

I noticed that too! :eek::) I do agree with the OP though, it's simple and very effective marketing... saves having to search forums and social media for the stuff they use.

Wow, good pricing, wish we had pricing like that in Australia!

Yes I agree, No need to upgrade if it's working well for you. The newer rubbers are NOT always better. :)

You and me both!

ROFL That is actually true! For different reasons of course, but so true! :ROFLMAO:

I bet most people don't even know what they do with their other hand, at least not until they get back onto a table and check. I am one of those!:eek::ROFLMAO:

I find it easiest with tacky rubbers as they lift the ball better with light control, like H3, D09C, recent hybrid rubbers, etc.

Yes I hated it too. It seemed dumb down the game making the ralleys and distance these athletes cover seem much shorter.

You may be You may be right, the manual mentions A C and D as the needle shapes, the C being the 2.5mm ball. Reading vary a lot with different sponges, so it's in the right hardness range. This is what mine looks like.

You really want the pressure head/pin to be a ball, not a pin, because many sponges are quite 'large pored', so you need to spread the pressure over a larger area. I've used a Shore C digital durometer before, which has a 2.5mm ball as the pressure head, while all the others I could find had...

Not sure if it's bested by H3, but perhaps for some players. From the Tenergy/Dignics range, I find T05 still the easiest to generate high spin and good speed. It's more forgiving to imperfect technique and it rewards good technique. It is the most sensitive to incoming spin from the range as...

Joola Golden Tango (not the PS) was one of more recent tacky rubber, and this one maintains the tackiness a long time too, as long as you use protection sheets. Sadly it seems it's discontinued.