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Well, that is very subjective and hard to answer. What kind of pips do you use? Do you play a passive or active game? I think it's easier the other way around, you can tell me what you need and expect the blade to do and I try to come up with a composition. If you want you can PM me with more...

I have never made one because i'm not a pips players and was never got a request for one. But i suppose it wouldn't be a problem.

Yes fanott, the core ply is made of 2 pieces. That's very normal among blade builders because it's very difficult to find pieces wide enough to use a single piece. This has already been discussed in several threads and It doesn't affect performance, if anything i think it even makes it better.

Thank you Nuise. I haven't built many blades for forum users, that's why i don't have much feedback here yet. I have sold mostly locally and those costumers are very happy. If you want to know prices just PM me.

I've made another blade for member Magic_M. This one is my favorite composition so far, but with a straight handle. I'm really jealous of this one, i wish i could keep it :D Limba/Limba/ALC/WRC/ALC/Limba/Limba - 88.7g - 5.75mm - 1170Hz

I'm a bit puzzled that you find the PPP hard and the viscaria flexy, have you tried them with the same rubbers?The PPP is a phony 7 ply, it has a 7 ply structure but underneath the koto is foil. Also, the koto ply is relatively thin. The ones i measured come at about 5.7mm, which is about the...

I'm really glad you like the blade. It was a pleasure to work with you :)

Thank you chintanmashroo! Which blade do you mean? These were all custom orders so i'm not sure about the rubbers but i think the owner of the first one plays with rasanter R47 and the other two play with T05 and M2. I personally use V15 Extra on the FH and Hexer Grip on the BH.

3 custom blades and 3 of my favorite compositions so far: My most popular composition, this one goes to a club mate who wanted a second one. A solid All+ blade with great feeling and control. Limba/Limba/Basalt Fibre/Kiri x3/Basalt Fibre/Limba/Limba - 80.7g - 5.75mm - 1140Hz This is one has...

He was hopeless out there. That fast long serve to the body killed him, the BH opener always went straight into the deadly FH of Chuqin. He has to open with the FH and vary the placement if he wants even a chance to discuss the point.

Chuqin giving a masterclass on how to defeat Harimoto.

And two more custom blades. The first one is based based on a classic composition but with a different, and very uncommon, medial ply. Limba/Ako/Ayous/Ako/Limba - 84.3g - 5.8mm - 1162Hz The second blade has a similar composition but uses Anigre as the medial ply and a thicker core...

Is it possible? More or less. Will it work? No, at least not how you want it to work. Those blades are too far apart, and a combination of both will not play like either, or the sum of both. It will be something entirely different. The Diode has a large face and the apolonia is standard...

This time something a little different. This blade belongs to a very old player and it's from 1950! It had cracked before and the person who repaired it left a very ugly stripe on the surface that wasn't even flush with the rest of the blade, so a mark was visible after the rubber was glued...

Well, basically it's a 7 ply blade so the same principles apply. The 7 ply is a softer, less stiff and has a bigger sweet spot. To me it feels almost as an ayous core but not as hollow as a 5 ply. The goal was to make a looping blade that didn't feel too hollow when blocking but still light...

Thank you Carl!

It's silly if you think of blades like viscaria, they could just glue the plies together. But as you said, this way they can get a more uniform look and there is less deviation on the weight of the handles because the wood is more homogeneous. In other cases, like the pattern in TB ALC, it would...

Yes, there are 5 plies, but within those plies you have multiple vertical lines because of the thin glued layers. Let's see if this pic helps. The black lines are the layers that are glued together, then they are are cut vertically (green lines).

Durability wise the "old" method was better. You look at some vintage blades and you can see the handles aged very well, in some of them the wood even turned darker and more beautiful. Because ayous is soft it is more susceptible to physical damage and it also absorbs more moisture. That's why...

The grain is almost always oriented vertically, but that's a different thing. You have the orientation of the wood grain and the orientation of the cut. Older blades have very simple patterns in the handle, usually just horizontal or vertical stripes. These were just 1-2mm thick wood plies...