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Also a big fan of the Rakza series-I know this is an old thread, but in this day of 120 USD rubbers, I think they generally provide good value. Per the original post: Looping: for spin, rakza 7 Serving: rakza Z Blocking: not sure, 7 or X Driving: rakza X (very linear) Chopping: these are not...

He said it spoils in 2 months, but he plays 10 hours a week! (Kudos on that!). Two months is not bad with that much play.

I agree with ultravisitor-almost no way to improve much playing doubles only. If you can also do some training with a coach yes. Playing doubles is what you do after you have learned the basics. Or if you a senior.

I have used Victas Koki Niwa wood and Yasaka Falck W7 the most. Koki Niwa wood is a looping machine with really good control. Big kick on loops. BUT if you also hit, it feels like a vibrating noodle imo. So style of play really matters. It also has a smaller handle-which I like with smaller...

I am in the early stages of switching to inverted on my BH from LP. I am generally trying 1.9 or 1.8 sponge or occasionally 2.0 for control. I am very early on. No conclusions yet.

That is an unusual combination. I find the slowest 7 ply blades have the most flex (they loop good, but do not hit good). Maybe the yasaka extra offensive 7 ply, but It is not slow IMO. The sanwei parla is not real fast. I don't recall how stiff is was. The JOOLA Tezzo Guardian Table Tennis...

Would love more follow-up with time.

Comparing pro level or full time players with the old guy (me) playing 3 times a week with a few tournaments a year is insane/irrelevant. Also saying coaching is the answer is also somewhat crazy-many of us have NO access to a coach-either due to finances or time or due to geography or all three.

We are all strongly convinced in whatever our opinion is.

Responses are all over the place on this thread. I will contradict a few of them: R7 is NOT a beginner rubber! Just putting H3 neo on both sides is terrible advice (unless you are a kid and have a full time Chinese coach) for 99% of people. IF you are playing a lot (3 or more days a week)...

Which (shipping costs) are significant:(

One statement I did not like is-Your rating doesn't lie. I disagree. You can improve greatly without a significant increase in rating, particularly at middle levels. Rating is based on wins and losses-not how well you play.

Pure and Clipper are 7 ply and should play more linear. Wood and All around classic 5 ply and have more kick with less linearity. Theoretically.

Common man, have a little sense of humor! Everyone can see what review for what it is. Plus we get a laugh out of it. I had a few of my reviews (which were absolutely legitimate) reported and dinged. I responded to whoever let me know. They thought I was just dogging the rubber, but certainly...

Are we talking table tennis rubber or pronouns?

Balsa blades do NOT chop well in my experience. Not true, off the table chopping.

Happens all the time. Kinda makes it fun for me.

I don't think this rule per se would hurt my pips, but I do think it would open the door to more rule changes, like elimination of "junk rubbers". I do agree it may slow the game down and allow longer rallies.

My sweet spot is 159-164 grams-I use thin sponge LP or LP OX on one side. No booster on my max inverted. But I frankly oppose a weight maximum or limit. I like variety. Also scared someone is gonna take my pips away!

One thing I think is overlooked is that EJing makes more sense for mixed rubber players. If I played double inverted I think there is MUCH less impetus to EJ. But as a LP player I am always looking for more control on my BH with good power on my FH-whether it is related to blade, LP rubber or...