Search results

I also have experience drying the blade (without the handles) in a preheated and turned-off oven. However, I always clamp the blade in a press to prevent warping.

They may not factor in the costs of marketing and player sponsorship for products within Japan, but for global prices these costs are taken into account. Anyway without having prime cost data, which also includes expenses on advertising, marketing, player sponsorship and distribution, it is very...

Butterfly's high prices, in addition to direct production costs, also include marketing and sponsorship costs for a large number of athletes. They also invest in research and development. I don't think Loki is involved in research and development :-)

The Jupiter 3 38 is a good upgrade for the Mercury 2. It's a good training rubber with a very grippy topsheet and low speed after the factory booster wears off. The topsheet lasts a long time.

Not a bad option for a beginner player - Loki Rxton 3. It can be used on both sides

In severe cases, an iron helps. There is no need to heat the rubber surface, but rather to work with the edge of the iron.

It would be interesting to see how it plays without a boost on water glue.

What I see is that the Biside is very similar in design to the Keyshot Light, the difference is in the surface. The Keyshot Light has a koto, and the Bsside has a limba. There may also be a difference in blade thickness. Keyshot Light is very flexible blade, it bends easily despite its large...

The combination of rubber and blade is important. With a Viscaria-type blade (external reinforcement and koto on surface) the G09C feels completely different than with a inner structure blade with limba on surface.

Don't repeat my mistakes. I tried a lot of inexpensive сhinese rubber and couldn't find one that worked for my backhand. You'll end up spending more money on experimentation. There are excellent and relatively inexpensive rubbers from Nittaku (Fastarс series), Yasaka (Rakza series), Xiom (Vega...

Maybe it's for the best, because if there was a strong case, he would have broken his ribs :ROFLMAO:

I've already written in another thread about what I use for over 15 years, not only for myself but also for many friends, but I'll repeat it here because it's very inexpensive and produces a very high-quality cut. I use single-edged razor blades. Since the blade is very thin, it bends easily...

It will play great out of the box, since it has a factory booster, but after 2-3 weeks, the performance will drop by 1.5 times. If you want to play without a booster, then better the Double Fish Volant Phoenix 1. Hardness 39 feels like 41 for J3. Great rubber for the low price.

In my opinion, you are not doing anything so strange or stupid. Many amateurs do the same. For example, if you ate a ball after losing, that would be strange :-)

That's true, but Rakza Z is more sensitive to the opponent's rotation. A lot depends on his playing style. I recommended a more versatile rubbers. By the way, if it's too fast, he can go back to "good old" but new Mark 5.

I also wouldn't recommend a hybrid rubber for your friend, because the stickiness reduces speed and often hybrid rubbers require a faster blade. Rakza7, FastarcC1, VegaEurope will be a good upgrade

It's true, I like head balance myself, but a strong head balance prevents you from making sharp movements with your wrist, for example banana or topspin backhand. In addition, with such balance it is difficult to recover quickly for the next shot. Its better to have a "golden mean" in everything.

Factory handles are made of fineline - painted veneers that are glued together. I think the stickiness has more to do with this glue than lignin. I have a blade with a handle made of a whole piece of natural walnut, which is polished to a shine, but it is not sticky at all.

If we were playing with bare blades, you would be right, but we play with rackets assembled with rubbers, and the weight of the rubber is the same or greater than the weight of the blade itself, which significantly shifts the balance upwards. In addition, harder and therefore heavier rubbers are...

A fairly old Butterfly Keyshot Light blade. I'm not the first person to remove the handles on this blade, maybe someone made the cavity before me, but it seems that this is factory work. The second photo shows how Arylate looks like