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  1. Which glue is more safe for the wood?

    Ummm ...No offence but I really wouldn't recommend putting rubber cement anywhere near poly sealed timber. Many rubber cements contain toluene as an active solvent for the various synthetic rubber polymers in the cement. Toluene is also one of the number one ingredients in paint stripper...
  2. Which glue is more safe for the wood?

    Agreed - one is usually plenty.. I only say two layers as I've seen some first time users literally rub off all the poly they just put on the blade. Depending on the brand of poly, a thin, damp-looking sheen is usually perfect.
  3. Which glue is more safe for the wood?

    My pleasure 😊 glad I could help. Very quickly: - if you wipe off all the excess sealant each time, you don't need to sand at all. The wood should just look damp once you're done - if it's oil based poly, that thin film should still be okay. - Latex TT glue and raw latex are not the same...
  4. Which glue is more safe for the wood?

    Yes, you can get away with one thin layer of poly - it should be fine. The second layer is just a precaution on my part, but it's not absolutely necessary (if people are new to varnishing / sealing blades, they can sometimes rub off too much when removing the excess). Yes, many latex glues have...
  5. Are vibrations a good thing or a bad thing

    On a technical point, I would draw a distinction between vibration and feedback here. Both are forms of impact energy transfer, but only one of them is desirable. There's no industry standard definition for these terms, but as a bladesmith, I personally classify 'feedback' as: amounts and...
  6. SDC blades as accurate as real thing?

    Unfortunately there's always going to be differences between cloned blades and factory originals, just as there are always subtle differences between 'identical' blades from the same manufacturer. In the case of a large manufacturer, they can't make all their blades absolutely identical because...
  7. Which glue is more safe for the wood?

    If you use an oil-baded polyurethane sealant, you will only need to seal the blade's playing surface once. Two very thin coats should more than suffice, and will not ruin the feel of the blade. The best way to do this is to use both a brush or rag, as well as a separate clean and dry, lint-free...
  8. Best and fastest rubbers for a beginner

    Getting back to the OP, I always trot out the old chestnut that beginners should start with a rubber that *anybody* can control, then later on progress to the fastest rubbers *that person personally* can control, at whatever stage of the game they are at. I also personally believe that the...
  9. Slow blade with fast rubbers vs. Fast blade with slow rubbers

    It's my experience that the differences between rubbers is much smaller (generally speaking) than the differences between blades, and changing the latter has a more profound effect than changing the former. Myself I am also in the fast blade with slower rubbers category. I usually play with an...
  10. Equipment you want Dan and Tom to review?

    If they really want to do something like a speed-test / review / side by side comparison of the 10 fastest blades in the world, I've heard rumors about this upcoming, radical new type of TT timber one-ply (which hails from Australia of all places) that might potentially be a serious contender...
  11. Wanted: Hinoki & One-ply users to play test new blades

    I'm actually pretty well situated now for this latest round of upcoming tests sorry, -- I am happy though to add you to the next round of tests later in the year if you like. Send me a PM with your contact details and I'll happily add you to the short-list of names for the next round, which...
  12. Thin topsheet thick sponge rubber

    Plus one on all the Rasanter recommendations - they fill this need very nicely. Myself I like R42 but they're all pretty good really. The Joola Energy Extra Green Power has a thicker top sheet than the Rasnters, but it fills the brief in terms of having that springy, catapult feeling and very...
  13. Best table for the money (w/minimal or pre-assembled)?

    I agree with Zwill's comments regarding both heavier tables, and timber weight vs quality in general. In terms of tables (in my own limited experience) I find to get ITTF-legal bounce from a table (ie: at least a 240mm rebound from a 300mm drop using an ITTF approved 3-star 40+ ball) you need...
  14. Wanted: Hinoki & One-ply users to play test new blades

    Yes I am actually... ...but now I'm looking for one less - congratulations, you're in. 😎 I'll send you an intro DM shortly - welcome aboard.
  15. Wanted: Hinoki & One-ply users to play test new blades

    Please note I didn't say this was my opinion 🤣 ...it's just an attitude I tend to run into a lot 😂
  16. Wanted: Hinoki & One-ply users to play test new blades

    UPDATE ONE: Hi Folks. Three volunteer play testers have come on board so far - which is brilliant - so thanks a bundle guys for being involved. We'll do everything we can to make this exercise a lot of fun for you. ☺️ Still plenty of spots available for those who are interested. Things won't...
  17. Wanted: Hinoki & One-ply users to play test new blades

    Hi folks 🙂 I'm currently looking for TT players who would be willing to act as potential play-testers for me -- I'm hoping that some of you good folk on TTDaily might be interested. The only major requirement I have is that any play testers must currently & regularly use: - either a one ply...
  18. I made a Timo Boll ALC Cybershape

    Have to ask - did your blade get much stiffer once you finished the surgery? I imagine the blade would be flexing far less than it used to now.
  19. New Blade - time to get familiar with?

    I can get 'used' to a new blade in anywhere from 5 minutes to an hour of play (where the vast majority of my strokes go in) -- this is partially a reflection though of the fact I'm constantly playing with / testing new blades as part of my job. It takes me a good month of regular play however...
  20. Looking for a custom setup advice

    Re: the OP -- here's my two cents worth: It is ten times harder to unlearn a bad habit, or correct bad technique, than it is to learn good habits and technique from the very beginning. Bad habits give you a lifetime's worth of frustration. Good ones give you a lifetime's worth of pleasure...
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