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Janka hardness is not importante for FEA. As for the weight of Ayous, you are probably right but i got those numbers from wood database, the tt blades database and other sources.

I used layered shell elements in SAP2000.

The mesh follows a grid of 7,5x7,5mm, i didn't want triangular shells but it is impossible given the geometry. It is just sub-meshed were needed. In the meantime i detected a major mistake. My shell local axes were not oriented correctly so all of the models are rotated 90º. The 0º orientation...

I tried to model blades with the materials i sourced, wich are, Balsa, Englemann Spruce and Red Cedar for the cores and Sycamore Maple and Sapele for the outer plies. I will try to build a few blades from this list, maybe one of each rating, and compare them to my predictions. In the next table...

Being an over thinker as i am, i wanted to see if i could predict the rating of a blade before i build it. So, i decided to make a numerical model of a blade and analyse the results by changing several properties. The shape of the blade and the mechanical properties of the materials are always...

Yesterday i tried the B2 prov boosted with 2 layers of seamoon. Good rubber, better than H3N but not as tacky as i expected. However, is not for my game, so i'm back to the Ak47 for now.

I just add until the viscosity seems right, about 15-20% i guess.

I also use copydex and dilute it with water. Easier to apply and doesn't affect the bond. I also tried a "Huieson" glue i found on ebay, very cheap a pretty good.

The B2. I had several H3N and i don't remember them smelling so bad.

I received my B2 yesterday, gonna try it tomorrow. If i don't like it i'm gonna also gonna stick with the AK47. It's the most awful smelling rubber i have ever tried.

Lightzy, why did you move from the B2 to the AK47Y?

I had good results with two products: Teak oil and Acrylic wax Teak Oil is actually a mixture of oil and varnish, so when it cures leaves a fine protective layer while also penetrating the wood. It is easy two apply, dries to the touch in minutes but it takes about a week to fully cure...

Well, this post is a paradox: A theoretical discussion about the benefits of theoretical discussion :p

Yeah, they are average rubbers, but i still think they are among the best chinese european style rubbers. Also, i think sometimes spin and speed are overrated. Control and consistency are very important to get the opponent out of position and i find myself making very few unforced errors with...

You're welcome ;)

I feel the same way about the yinhe moon, the AK 47 yellow is much better. After 2 training sessions with the rubber on the FH i prefer it to the red. I think it is a more well rounded rubber and fits my style better, the blue on the BH is also perfect. I'm still gonna try the Battle 2 on the FH...

That's the Specific modulus, which is a materials property consisting of the elastic modulus per mass density of a material. If you compare the specific modulus of balsa with, per example Kiri, you will see that it is much larger. But there are factors to consider, wood is an heterogeneous...

Ok, if gaps are not legal then the hollowed core would be illegal. However, i might experiment with that to see the results. Yes, balsa is not very stiff when comparing to other woods but it's very stiff comparing to it's self weight. If the core is thin the blade will be slow, if the core is...

"2.4.5 The blade, any layer within the blade and any layer of covering material oradhesive on a side used for striking the ball shall be continuous and of eventhickness." Ok, they say continuous not homogeneous, i don't quite get what they mean by that. However, this was not the purpose of...

I'm not sure but I think that the rules state that the ply should be homogeneous.