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Yes I hated it too. It seemed dumb down the game making the ralleys and distance these athletes cover seem much shorter.

You may be You may be right, the manual mentions A C and D as the needle shapes, the C being the 2.5mm ball. Reading vary a lot with different sponges, so it's in the right hardness range. This is what mine looks like.

You really want the pressure head/pin to be a ball, not a pin, because many sponges are quite 'large pored', so you need to spread the pressure over a larger area. I've used a Shore C digital durometer before, which has a 2.5mm ball as the pressure head, while all the others I could find had...

Not sure if it's bested by H3, but perhaps for some players. From the Tenergy/Dignics range, I find T05 still the easiest to generate high spin and good speed. It's more forgiving to imperfect technique and it rewards good technique. It is the most sensitive to incoming spin from the range as...

Joola Golden Tango (not the PS) was one of more recent tacky rubber, and this one maintains the tackiness a long time too, as long as you use protection sheets. Sadly it seems it's discontinued.

If you're a brush looper (like you do with Chinese tacky style rubbers), you'll likely get more spin out of the 09C, but if you're more of a euro-style looper you'll likely get more spin out of 05. Either one can produce massive spin with the right technique, as others have said. Just remember...

I only use one for competition, and an (almost) identical one as a backup in case I ever break it. Although I'm sure you can get used to several setups, muscle memory and timing will always be a little different, and this usually takes more than a few sessions to adapt. I have many other bats...

As soon as the ball leaves your palm in an attempted serve, the point starts, so if you catch it, you'll lose the point.

I don't know why you're bringing this up again. This was all decided when the frictionless pimple ban came in, nothing has changed.

That's quite surprising, because it's usually only the commercial ones that are tacky, and both provincial/National barely tacky. I've not seen a National sheet that feels that tacky, although the black clearly have a bit more tack compared to red.

Spinlord has some nice and fast ones, like Waran, but they're quite a bit more expensive, not sure if that's more than you're willing to spend. Yes Uranus is supposed to be fast SP for a Chinese rubber, but there's quite a few versions, and I've not kept up with these.

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That can be a temperature problem, where they either packaged the rubbers before they cooled down, or the temperature when they're made is a lot different to where it's used. Since the top-sheet and sponge have different expansion rates at different temperatures, it will result in a dome (or a...

That's clearly an oversight by Tibhar by using the same packaging that shows the hardness of 53deg. They really should fix that. Looking forwards to hearing how it plays though, sounds like a rubber I'll like.

Then either of those blades will work very well. I assume you'll have an inverted or short pip on forehand, so choose the blade that best suits that rubber, as that's probably more important. If you want to hit with the other side, you might need a blade fast enough to hit it past the opponent.

Yes you're right, they always do, even if they were never boosted. I think it's just aging over time as it dried out. If you boosted it or stretced it onto the blade, the dome will be a lot worse.

This rubber feels very dead, extremely slow and massive spin reversal. Although no longer legal for competition for 10+ years, if you still use this for fun, it works well an almost any blade. Commonly used blades are Dr N Barricade or Firewall Plus.

It's perfectly normal to charge for it. Most coaches have a skill that's been honed over many years, and it costs them time (and probably balls too and some are often stepped on), so it's perfectly reasonable to charge for it. If you don't want to pay for, buy a batch of balls yourself, and...

I tried that for a while, but it's not as spinny (topspin) as Victas 401 for my style of game, and since my game relies a lot on heavy spin, I'm always interested in these types of rubber.

Yes, the original ones (in OX) were found to be slightly over the limit of 2.0mm, so they redesigned them to be slightly shorter. I'm sure sure of the year, but I would guess about 12 years ago perhaps?